Author Topic: Dip painting parts  (Read 1706 times)

Offline DKutz

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Dip painting parts
« on: November 14, 2018, 05:59:44 PM »
I saw a thread somewhere a LONG time ago, about how to dip parts to achieve the factory look.  If I remember correctly the person filled a bucket with water, and then a layer of black paint.  as the parts dipped they were coated (twice I guess)  does anyone have more info on this process?  What paint is best to use?
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Offline rockhouse66

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Re: Dip painting parts
« Reply #1 on: November 14, 2018, 06:53:56 PM »
I have been using the paint on water method.  I use plain old Rustoleum enamel.  You can get gloss, semi-gloss and flat and you can mix them to the sheen you desire.  I thin it with real reducer (not hardware store mineral spirits) though I know some people just use it as is.  I can't get it to run off as it should if I don't thin it down.

I float the paint on the water by pouring it down a mixing stick or something similar rather than just dumping it in.  I also make sure that I have enough depth of paint to coat however many parts I am doing, as your paint layer gets thinner with each part you dip and you don't want to find you don't have enough paint to coat the last few parts.  It helps to use a container just large enough horizontally for your parts.  That way, you can have a nice deep layer of paint on top without using a lot of paint.  Of course, the container has to be tall enough to completely submerge your part.

Some parts are a tricky shape and can trap an air bubble, which prevents paint getting on the part before it touches water.  So I have gotten in the habit of putting a rattle can coat of paint on the part first so that even if this happens, it isn't obvious.  You have to think ahead as to how to hang the part for dipping as you want paint to run off and not puddle up somewhere.  I have found pulleys can be tricky in this regard.
Jim
'66 GT FB

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: Dip painting parts
« Reply #2 on: November 14, 2018, 07:11:48 PM »
I saw a thread somewhere a LONG time ago, about how to dip parts to achieve the factory look.  If I remember correctly the person filled a bucket with water, and then a layer of black paint.  as the parts dipped they were coated (twice I guess)  does anyone have more info on this process?  What paint is best to use?
It doesn't cause a double coat. The problem I see with the water is that the paint separates between uses and you have to stir it to mix it back. When you stir the paint mixture with a water floating top barrier, water will inevitablebly will be mixed with the paint and take time to separate. I never used the water because I was concerned that the water would contaminate the bare metal part being dipped(control arms) and have oxidation problems later. That is besides the mixing mess. Just me . I didn't want to take the chance . I keep paint in a tall trash can that I seal off the top of with clear plastic and taped around the top edge. I typically just have to take off a thin skim coat top layer that forms between uses .
« Last Edit: November 15, 2018, 02:44:28 PM by Bob Gaines »
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Dip painting parts
« Reply #3 on: November 14, 2018, 07:28:47 PM »
I've tried it the dipping and had issues with trapping too many bubbles in the paint that resulted in a poor finish.

Sure there are things I could have done to correct this and I've been able to replicate with spraying and not allot of parts (dependent on year and plant) don't have the finish,  I choose not to try it further. Just me
Jeff Speegle

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Offline tobkob

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Re: Dip painting parts
« Reply #4 on: November 14, 2018, 09:31:51 PM »
Quote
I have been using the paint on water method. I float the paint on the water by pouring it down a mixing stick or something similar rather than just dumping it in. 

Quote
The water floats on top and is mostly to keep oxygen from coming in contact with the paint which causes the paint to harden on top. The part comes in contact with water first then the paint. 

I'm confused. Does the paint float on water or water float on paint?
This sounds interesting as I will someday soon need to paint some fenders for a Model A and they were originally dipped. I always thought it would take a large barrel of black paint to dip a fender but this may make it feasible. Also I don't see how paint would stick to a surface after it was dipped through water first. ???

TOB
1969 (04/07/69) GT350 owned since 1970. Only owner since Hertz.

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Dip painting parts
« Reply #5 on: November 14, 2018, 10:48:19 PM »
I'm confused. Does the paint float on water or water float on paint?

The container needs to be deep enough to fully contain (plus a few inches) the longest/biggest item your going to dip, you float paint on top of the water (will do so naturally) the part gets coated as you slowly lower the part into the bucket and excess paint (depending on how much you thin out the paint) runs off after you pull the part out.
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline tobkob

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Re: Dip painting parts
« Reply #6 on: November 14, 2018, 11:07:37 PM »
Quote
The container needs to be deep enough to fully contain (plus a few inches) the longest/biggest item your going to dip, you float paint on top of the water (will do so naturally) the part gets coated as you slowly lower the part into the bucket and excess paint (depending on how much you thin out the paint) runs off after you pull the part out.

I understand the process but one says the paint is floating on top and one says the water is floating on top. I would think the paint would have to be on top, but I have never tried to dip parts before. I just thought it would be good to have it clarified.   :)

TOB
1969 (04/07/69) GT350 owned since 1970. Only owner since Hertz.

Offline rockhouse66

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Re: Dip painting parts
« Reply #7 on: November 15, 2018, 09:25:06 AM »
Bob has it mixed up.  The paint is on top.  Coating the part with paint as it passes through the paint layer prevents the water from even touching the metal.  All you get is a painted part, no moisture.

Most of the parts I have done turn out great, with that smooth look that only dipping provides IMO.  I think the key to a good result is thinning of the paint so you don't end up with too much paint on the part or thick waves of runs where it dries before it drips.
Jim
'66 GT FB

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: Dip painting parts
« Reply #8 on: November 15, 2018, 02:42:20 PM »
Bob has it mixed up.  The paint is on top.  Coating the part with paint as it passes through the paint layer prevents the water from even touching the metal.  All you get is a painted part, no moisture.

Most of the parts I have done turn out great, with that smooth look that only dipping provides IMO.  I think the key to a good result is thinning of the paint so you don't end up with too much paint on the part or thick waves of runs where it dries before it drips.
Yes I was mixed up and will amend my post . I supposed I am biased ether way and only see possible problems using the water .  Mixing the paint between usages would still be a problem unless you only plan to use it one time. You can achieve the same look without the water you just have to used more paint . I have never had problems with bubbles like others that used the water . Just what i have always done.
« Last Edit: November 16, 2018, 01:00:09 AM by Bob Gaines »
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline jwc66k

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Re: Dip painting parts
« Reply #9 on: November 15, 2018, 04:53:07 PM »
The "water' dip method works with oil based paints, which are not to readily available in many states including California. I've used enamel based paints with good results.
Jim
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Offline 68 GT

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Re: Dip painting parts
« Reply #10 on: February 02, 2022, 04:37:12 PM »
Interesting......
VIN 7T01C246XXX
Actual build date 5-11-67

VIN 8F01J208XXX
Actual build date 6-27-68