ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Processes, Products & Techniques => Topic started by: 1969 Cale II on January 04, 2015, 10:14:11 PM
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Do you have the same problem I have with browning after you dry it? Try this next time , it worked for me. When you are rinsing the part, use a baking soda solution on the part as you rinse. It neutralizes that acid content of the gun blueing. When I clean hardware for the platers, I strip them in acid, then in a soda solution to neutralize it, then rinse and dry. It does not rust then. Use hot water speeds the drying process. It doesn't take much baking soda, you can't over do it either because you will give it a final wash. Now, if you aren't the baker in the house, don't get caught stealing it.
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I use blueing as well, browning isn't a process that I would use on anything on a mustang. It looks like old rust.
After bluing, I rinse them off in hot water and baking soda, blow them off with compressed air. At that point I put them in a zip lock back and spray them down with Sheath. It's an oil in a spray can that also works as a desiccant.
I soak the entire quantity in the bag, push the air out and zip the bag shut and usually leave them for a few days. Sometimes I use the tumbler I used for my brass cases when I reload with an agressive agent to strip bolts, other times I will glass bead them, spray them with brake cleaner and dry them with air, then I put an entire container of Permablue in a dish dip them and lay them on a paper plate, to allow them to process. They are cleaned and use the same process as above with the gun sheath.
This very closely resembles phosphate. You have to be careful about using a fine wire wheel, then bluing. If you do, often they wind up a bright iridescent blue instead of the black-blue from the other processes.
-Keith
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...Sheath. It's an oil in a spray can that also works as a desiccant.
Birchwood Casey has renamed "Sheath" as "Barricade"
Details of the product can be found at this site:
https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Cleaning-and-Maintenance/Cleaning-Maintenance/Barricade®-Rust-Protection.aspx
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Have any of you tried cold black oxide? Caswell has kits, probably other sources as well:
http://www.caswellplating.com/metal-finishing-solutions/black-oxide-kits.html
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Have any of you tried cold black oxide? Caswell has kits, probably other sources as well:
Looks like Insta-Black and all of those. To me they are just another name for the instant gun bluing solutions. All look the same and work pretty much the same as the no-heat versions.
Last stuff I purchased works with and without heat but to get rid of any "hidden" water I've been heating the metal before I coat or dip the parts.
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Well, San Jose,
I purchased a case being I have quite a collection of what the Sheath was intended for, so I wasn't aware of the name change.