Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models > Drivetrain
69 390 Driver Exhaust Manifold Removal
G Wood:
Bob - I appreciate the details that you have passed along but want to clarify a few things if I am concentrating on the driver side only. You mention an 2x8 under the oil pan, does this mean that you are jacking up the engine instead of using a engine hoist (cherry picker)? If using that method, what do I need to disconnect for a 4 speed car. Zbar needs to come out but do I also need to disconnect the shift linkage etc (after loosening trans from mount) or if I am tilting the engine a few inches should be ok?
Carb linkage and other top side items may be obvious once I get into it but if you have done this in past would appreciate any other words of wisdom.
Bob Gaines:
--- Quote from: G Wood on February 05, 2018, 08:56:54 PM ---Bob - I appreciate the details that you have passed along but want to clarify a few things if I am concentrating on the driver side only. You mention an 2x8 under the oil pan, does this mean that you are jacking up the engine instead of using a engine hoist (cherry picker)? If using that method, what do I need to disconnect for a 4 speed car. Zbar needs to come out but do I also need to disconnect the shift linkage etc (after loosening trans from mount) or if I am tilting the engine a few inches should be ok?
Carb linkage and other top side items may be obvious once I get into it but if you have done this in past would appreciate any other words of wisdom.
--- End quote ---
It is fine to use a cherry picker but I typically choose not to in a situation such as this because it requires more time disconnecting carburetor and attaching.Sometimes it may require hood removal too depending on picker. I jack up the engine using the safe guards mentioned. It is a given that you have to pull the motor mount bolt on the side you are working on at the time. You would need the z bar out of the way the rest can stay connected. You will not be jacking engine up that far. P.S. not entirely necessary but it helps to have the valve cover off too for extra work clearance.
427Fastback:
Picture tells me its a 69 390 Car and its not concours.How Ford did it is not important.I agree on having the manifold surfaced but that's only one half of the sealing surface.Depending on how long it has been leaking the head may need surfacing as well.You may spend two days fixing it only to have it blow the silicone out in two weeks and be leaking again.Silicone is a short term band aid when it comes to exhaust.
I would simply yank the engine out.It will take less time (and pain) that trying to fix it in the car.Chances are some of the top bolts are sized or will break..Then what ???.4spd cars are a pain I understand that....
McCord makes a really nice proper exhaust manifold gasket for your application.Not header gasket stuff.I am not saying to use them but if the head is damaged you only have two options.
I am a machine fitter by trade and in no way apposed to a gasket less surface but things have to be right.At least if the engine is out you can draw file the cyl head.
I am not one for taking chances or gambling.....JMO....Cory
J_Speegle:
--- Quote from: 427Fastback on February 06, 2018, 02:16:24 AM ---Picture tells me its a 69 390 Car and its not concours.........
--- End quote ---
The pictures are not of the OP car. Just thought I would mention that
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