Author Topic: Overheated  (Read 1883 times)

Offline tclark

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Overheated
« on: September 09, 2018, 12:42:40 PM »
 Sitting in line for show in myrtle beach, my 65gt overheated, thanks for such great mustangers
Several jump out of their cars and help me pushed into a show spot.
 Car has less than 200 miles on rebuild all new components 3 core radiator, does
Have original 4 blade fan, I believe a 180 thermostat?, etc.
 I built this close to original as I could.  Since it never came with a shroud I'm thinking of adding that?
Maybe a fan clutch with a fan with more blades?
If anyone else has ideas of what more I should do would be appreciated.
Thanks
Tom

Offline 67350#1242

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Re: Overheated
« Reply #1 on: September 09, 2018, 02:43:22 PM »
Shroud and clutch fan will do wonders increasing airflow through radiator.  Clutch fan is also much quieter especially at higher RPM.   More and larger blades/pitch increase airflow at idle where you need it and clutch saves power as RPM increases,   I would recommend for any car other than one built for concours show duty. 
Perhaps some of your problem is with the newness/tightness of the rebuild,  but I might double check the thermostat to make sure if it is working properly.
« Last Edit: September 09, 2018, 02:47:28 PM by 67350#1242 »
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Offline preaction

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Re: Overheated
« Reply #2 on: September 09, 2018, 03:50:33 PM »
Getting some miles on it will help a lot, 500 to 1k will let all parts mate where there is no more excess heat from friction of a new engine. Also you should be using a non synthetic oil.
8F02R218047-  July 18 1968   Dearborn

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Overheated
« Reply #3 on: September 10, 2018, 10:17:34 PM »
What is the history of the radiator before going and modifying the car
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline 67gtasanjose

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Re: Overheated
« Reply #4 on: September 11, 2018, 05:55:34 AM »
Getting some miles on it will help a lot, 500 to 1k will let all parts mate where there is no more excess heat from friction of a new engine.

These cars were originally built to not "require a break-in period before they wouldn't overheat". If there is THAT much "friction" in the cylinders and/or clearances that the engine labors excessively, or enough to cause an overheating condition, I would call that a poor rebuild job. I don't think I am alone on that opinion.

What is the history of the radiator before going and modifying the car

Good question and a great place to begin before choosing to modify your car away from original. Ford did not engineer these cars to operate with add-On's (such as air conditioning), at least not in extremely hot climates. When AC was added, then it would be typical to need upgrades, even on Dealer Install jobs. Otherwise, what was installed on the cars, was adequate to the typical conditions found in most locations.

Let me ask instead another question related to the O.P's initial statement of "Overheating".

Did the car overheat on the gauge? Blow steam and coolant everywhere? Or, did the car simply push out some coolant while waiting in the line?

Reminder: Since these cars were not designed with a Coolant Overflow System, the upper radiator tank doubled as an Expansion Tank and often, as long as the coolant level was over the tubes of the radiator, the cooling system was considered "FULL". I would hope with all your hard work, that perhaps the radiator just was a little over-full.

« Last Edit: September 11, 2018, 06:00:21 AM by 67gtasanjose »
Richard Urch

1967 (11/2/66, S.J.) GTA Luxury Coupe, 289-4V w/Thermactor Emissions, C-4, Int./Ext. Decor +many options

2005 (04/05) GT Premium Convertible, Windveil Blue, Parchment Top w/Med. Parchment interior,  Roush Body Appointments

Offline tclark

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Re: Overheated
« Reply #5 on: September 11, 2018, 11:20:18 AM »
The radiator is new 3 row,  it ran temperature of halfway Mark on way up. Then as it sat in line
Gauge pegged up all way, then spit up all over.
Thanks for advice
 Tom

Offline 67gtasanjose

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Re: Overheated
« Reply #6 on: September 11, 2018, 03:26:35 PM »
The radiator is new 3 row,  it ran temperature of halfway Mark on way up. Then as it sat in line
Gauge pegged up all way, then spit up all over.
Thanks for advice
 Tom

Sounds like not enough air flow.

Can you shoot a picture of your fan blade?

Also, after warming it up to "pegged" or kust before, maybe instead, 3/4 mark of the guage, does it cool down again after driving and getting forced-air?
Richard Urch

1967 (11/2/66, S.J.) GTA Luxury Coupe, 289-4V w/Thermactor Emissions, C-4, Int./Ext. Decor +many options

2005 (04/05) GT Premium Convertible, Windveil Blue, Parchment Top w/Med. Parchment interior,  Roush Body Appointments

Offline DKutz

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Re: Overheated
« Reply #7 on: September 11, 2018, 03:42:36 PM »
Mine did the same thing when I took it to its first show.  So I did the following:


Had the radiator flushed
Put in a HD  Water pump (CARDONE SELECT 5521111H Optional "Extra Duty" Replacement Pump; with Cast Iron Pump )
Fan Shroud (shock from NPD)
Seven bladed mechanical fan (NPD)
And a bit of water wetter

Have never had a problem since.
How much was your block bored?
« Last Edit: September 11, 2018, 03:50:35 PM by DKutz »
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Offline CharlesTurner

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Re: Overheated
« Reply #8 on: September 11, 2018, 05:46:03 PM »
Are you sure the t-stat was installed correctly?
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Offline DKutz

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Re: Overheated
« Reply #9 on: September 11, 2018, 05:57:21 PM »
and the system was burped?
1965 Mustang Fastback 'A' Code, silver Blue Met, Med blue int. Auto, San Jose, 10/8/64 #1449**

Gone but not forgotten - 1996 Mustang GT

Offline 67gtasanjose

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Re: Overheated
« Reply #10 on: September 22, 2018, 08:08:17 AM »
Incorrect or too much radiator paint can cause issues too.
Richard Urch

1967 (11/2/66, S.J.) GTA Luxury Coupe, 289-4V w/Thermactor Emissions, C-4, Int./Ext. Decor +many options

2005 (04/05) GT Premium Convertible, Windveil Blue, Parchment Top w/Med. Parchment interior,  Roush Body Appointments

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: Overheated
« Reply #11 on: September 22, 2018, 03:34:33 PM »
Sitting in line for show in myrtle beach, my 65gt overheated, thanks for such great mustangers
Several jump out of their cars and help me pushed into a show spot.
 Car has less than 200 miles on rebuild all new components 3 core radiator, does
Have original 4 blade fan, I believe a 180 thermostat?, etc.
 I built this close to original as I could.  Since it never came with a shroud I'm thinking of adding that?
Maybe a fan clutch with a fan with more blades?
If anyone else has ideas of what more I should do would be appreciated.
Thanks
Tom
The symptoms could suggest a number of problems some solutions of which have already been suggested. Since you said the engine has just been rebuilt suggests some other possible causes. The new engine built slightly too tight can make a engine run hot. This may cure itself in time as things wear in but they shouldn't have to . a engine should not run hot because of too tight of clearances if rebuilt properly. A Oil change with metal filings in the oil may confirm too tight of clearances with parts prematurely wearing away because of the tight fit. Another possibility on a fresh engine that is overheating is being bored out too much for that particular block. If it is bored out too much for that particular block there is not enough material to dissipate the heat . It just takes one area that is too thin to cause a problem. The thin area gets hot and flash boils the water in that small spot . The boiling of the water causes increased pressure which can cause the puking effect. Blocks are routinely bored out at rebuild to 30 thousand over . Others 40 and even 60 thousands. Some blocks can take it and some can not even take 30 over. It depends on the block . Sonic testing is one way to confirm what you are working with. I for example have gotten tired of the gamble and typically re sleeve all of the bores rather then the crap shoot of running the risk of over heating because of a over bore situation . That is just me and others may think that is extreme but to each their own. To me is just a insurance policy. A SB Ford block is already a very thin wall design to begin with and one reason it is so light comparability speaking to other engine blocks of comparable size. It was a amazing engineering feat when it was first introduced. I hope this is not your problem because there are only band aid fixes that may help but not cure the problem.   
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline kcodecoupe

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Re: Overheated
« Reply #12 on: September 24, 2018, 06:47:57 AM »
I have seen right bank head gaskets on 289,302,351, W installed backwards, causing the rear coolant passage in the block & head to be blocked off, you should see a portion of the head gasket that matches the left bank showing at the front lower portion of the head if both gaskets are install correct ,

Offline Building 3

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Re: Overheated
« Reply #13 on: September 24, 2018, 01:26:35 PM »
kcodecoupe: that is exactly what happened to my engine after a re-build. Hard to believe, but it happened. Also that rebuild was substandard in other respects. I also think the post on the over-bore has merit.  This 221-260-289-302 block was an engineering marvel at the time. very compact and lightweight. Those walls are very thin and re-sleeving the block will be the way I go next time.
1966 289 C code auto convertible December 1965 scheduled build at Dearborn.

1966 289 C code auto convertible
October 1965 scheduled build at Metuchen.