ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Misc Items => Topic started by: 67gta289 on July 22, 2012, 07:17:17 PM
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Looking for hints on how to restore styled steel wheels.
I was thinking to do this:
1. Grind out rivets from wheel side
2. Punch out rivets and save for later
3. Get centers rechromed, followed by appropriate paint
4. Refinish wheels in black on epoxy primer (not power coated)
5. Refinish rivets (P&O or gun blue)
6. Insert rivets and weld from wheel side (for looks only)
7. Weld center to wheel along edges on back side, grind, and paint
This is assuming that nobody will want to install rivets for safety purposes, which may not be the case.
I'm interested on what has been done by others, and what mistakes to avoid. I did a search on this site and did not see any threads. Thanks, John
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So am I going out on a limb doing this? Is this a dumb idea? Or does everyone just order repros?
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I've never done them. Always either used repro or NOS when needed.
Think there are liability issues with the wheel re-riveting, not many places will do it these days. Did you check in Hemming's for any places that offer wheel restoration?
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Charles is correct, use repro or NOS. I have a set of 5 original Style Steel Wheels on my 66 Fastback in very good condition. I removed the remaining paint and re-painted them. My 65 has 4 original "all chrome" type Style Steel Wheels and I'm tempted to have them re-chromed but the chrome shop said that there was a strong possibility that corrosion would show after a period of time where the center was riveted to the outer section. I'm considering repro as the costs are about the same. For my 66 Hardtop driver I took some advice from someone even older than me and got a set of 67 repro wheels as I have a set of Cooper radials tires and the extra width (not much) would be better. This was about 10 years ago and they look and work fine.
Jim
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Just found a place that might be able to restore your SSW's for you. McWheels. 605 6th Avenue. Slater, Iowa 50244. 515-685-3397. curt.mckim162@gmail.com. Sounds like you are looking at about $140 per wheel. Of course not able to re-rivet, must weld.
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So am I going out on a limb doing this? Is this a dumb idea? Or does everyone just order repros?
Difficult to true the wheel before rivet /welding for DIY i have heard. The original wheel rim is slightly different compared to modern replacement DOT approved rims . The replacement centers are pretty much spot on. If you can't get the riveted look it is not worth restoring IMHO. Check specialty wheels they used to sell riveted replacement.
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Thanks for the replies. If I decide to go with a restoration I'll post the details and results. John
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Charles is correct, use repro or NOS. I have a set of 5 original Style Steel Wheels on my 66 Fastback in very good condition. I removed the remaining paint and re-painted them. My 65 has 4 original "all chrome" type Style Steel Wheels and I'm tempted to have them re-chromed but the chrome shop said that there was a strong possibility that corrosion would show after a period of time where the center was riveted to the outer section. I'm considering repro as the costs are about the same. For my 66 Hardtop driver I took some advice from someone even older than me and got a set of 67 repro wheels as I have a set of Cooper radials tires and the extra width (not much) would be better. This was about 10 years ago and they look and work fine.
Jim
Any tips as to how you prepped and painted your SS wheels?
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Have a local company that changes out centers and rims on a regular bases if you want to send that step out to professionals. Might be fun getting the rivets completely sealed. Good luck
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Any tips as to how you prepped and painted your SS wheels?
I made paint masks from old unused IBM punch cards. The stiffness of the card was what I needed. It was trial and error but eventually I got a set of five (one for each open slot in the wheel), a roll of masking tape, a glass of wine and a good day to paint. It alsp helps if you've been building plastic model cars, planes and ships for a verrrry long time.
Jim
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Going to bring up an old thread. I would preffer using my OE wheels if at all practical also.
Repops? That is the answer? Seriously, we cave in to repops because of why? ...the Rivets? Obviously Kelsey did a fine job and they lasted 50 years, all we want is to rechrome the centers and put them back! Seems easy enough if we are already riveting ball joints back in. Just my 2 cents worth
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Richard
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Going to bring up an old thread. I would preffer using my OE wheels if at all practical also.
Repops? That is the answer? Seriously, we cave in to repops because of why? ...the Rivets? Obviously Kelsey did a fine job and they lasted 50 years, all we want is to rechrome the centers and put them back! Seems easy enough if we are already riveting ball joints back in. Just my 2 cents worth
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Richard
Because it isn't always practical ;) . Tools needed and cost are not practical many times. Not a typical DIY job. True design wheels in CO is one company that can and will restore them . You will have to contact them for a price for disassembly of good usable cores, rechrome of rim (If usable) , rechroming of center, riveting together the trued assembly and final center detail. That is why a good repro is the answer for some. I would also add a repro is a 1 800 number away which sometimes makes a difference.
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I'm not there yet, but am committed to do this myself or possibly with "True Design Wheels" (thanks for the tip Bob) if the price to effort ratio is reasonable. And I'll report back on the results.
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Not a typical DIY job.
+1. Wheel riveting: A critical factory process involving great safety concerns. Must control steel grades, tolerances, temperature, pressure rates, conduct (destructive) test procedures to ensure strength etc.
Appreciate your commitment though.
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+1. Wheel riveting: A critical factory process involving great safety concerns. Must control steel grades, tolerances, temperature, pressure rates, conduct (destructive) test procedures to ensure strength etc.
Appreciate your commitment though.
I agree. Take care
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I made paint masks from old unused IBM punch cards. The stiffness of the card was what I needed. It was trial and error but eventually I got a set of five (one for each open slot in the wheel), a roll of masking tape, a glass of wine and a good day to paint. It alsp helps if you've been building plastic model cars, planes and ships for a verrrry long time.
Jim
I like your style here Jim. If my wife were to read this, she'd think I had possibly wrote it! Pedigree for patience and good thought processes. Not sure about my patience sometimes however...! ;)
-Lance
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I'm not there yet, but am committed to do this myself or possibly with "True Design Wheels" (thanks for the tip Bob) if the price to effort ratio is reasonable. And I'll report back on the results.
John, did you try to contact TDW by chance? I have stripped several of my wheels now, my chrome is nice but not perfect, I thought this vendor might be the best choice I had found to date to rechrome and true up mine but the phone numbers are all disconnected and no website any longer :'( Like I said, mine do not look to bad, but when I spin them on a balancer...well, an egg don't look too bad either! lol! They have to at very least be trued up. I think I have only one (1) round one out of 6 and on that one, you can see that somebody "straightened" it (not very good workmanship IMO, but it doesn't wobble like the rest)
Looking like riding on "eggs" or the repops are the answer unless I find somebody else that can straighten the wobble reasonably.
Richard
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I found this out this evening:
https://www.machinetools.com/en/auctions/6373-complete-dispersal-of-trudesign-wheel-inc-internet-only-auction
TruDesign Wheels is indeed out of business
Anybody with andy New ideas?