ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Processes, Products & Techniques => Topic started by: rodster on February 05, 2012, 05:51:08 PM
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While I kind of like the vintage 'used car' look, I feel there are lots of little details to be found hiding under the dirt, especially in the engine compartment.
In the past I would use Simple Green and pressure washer, set pretty low, for a good general cleaning.
Any other suggestions?
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Try Krud Kutter available in the paint department at Home Depot. It is a paint remover and will do just that (ya gotta be quick in removal), but it's also good as a grease remover and for that final step like on transmission housing for a natural finish. I use it as the smell of Simple Green makes me sick. It's not a cure-all but one of many "tools". Also try "Goof Off".
Jim
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I can tell you from personal experience as I have spent at least a hundred hours cleaning the engine and underside of my unrestored 67 Mustang. I used both Simply Green and Oil Eater http://www.oileater.com/. I used Oil Eater on oil/greasy areas and Simply Green on dirty areas. The floors look great with clean red oxide, over spray, and black out. I did loose a little of the over spray due to cleaning. The front fender under sides also are clean to the red oxide, and does have a little overspay left.
It is tough to clean without causing some damage. For example, the differential was very greasy and took a lot of scrubbing. The red oxide on the differential got duller and the markings almost disappeared. I feel it is better with it clean, but it I did loose some original details that I had to replace. It is hard to clean the engine compartment around the wiring to make sure to not break the plastic retainers.
I have tried using Purple Power, but I feel it caused some discoloration it may have been too strong or the purple color caused it to be stained. I also tried on a small section of one of the front spring cleaning it with Evapo-Rust, but it was also removing the paint so I stopped.
I would also like to know how others would clean without causing damage to 45 year old surfaces. How do you clean around bolts? Is it best to not try and remove rust from bare metal surfaces, example control arms, tie rods, driveshaft?
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I can tell you from personal experience as I have spent at least a hundred hours cleaning the engine and underside of my unrestored 67 Mustang.
How ironic....I'm cleaning up an unrestored 67 Mustang too! 8)
I would also like to know how others would clean without causing damage to 45 year old surfaces. How do you clean around bolts? Is it best to not try and remove rust from bare metal surfaces, example control arms, tie rods, driveshaft?
Good question. I've found in the past cars that had oil covered areas would be easy to clean and find some factory markings. With rusty areas, I'm afraid a fine wire brush may remove some of the markings along with the rust but I suppose that depends on many factors. I've had pretty good luck with a fine wire brush on my rusty 65 springs. Don't know if there's a better way to deal with the rust or not? Of course on small pieces, Evap-o-rust or vinegar may work the best.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zAZvQoxX9gA/TzCZi_UxBqI/AAAAAAAADUQ/lvu-UXkLDL4/s640/2009-07-20_5.JPG)
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Here is an after picture, I should of taken some befores.
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wow :o Very nice! I have my work cut out! ;D Did you use a brush and/or sponge on the floors?
How many miles on the car?
Lots of great details. Thanks for the picture.
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I used a lot of Harbor Freight nylon brushes. I didn't think about using a sponge. I also used wax for the final detail. The floor underside was very grey and had a lot of grease on the tunnel.
The car has over 137K miles. My grandparents drove it to 116K (in California) until 1980 when I got it. Two years ago, I detailed the underside and engine compartment. It has always been under a carport/garage. The car was lucky to be in a dry environment as my grandfather used to drive it fishing and there was a lot of dirt inside the torque boxes and beneath the rocker panel moldings. There is no rust.
Only maintainance items have been replaced (hoses, belts, battery, brakes). I replaced the resonator and muffler with an NOS system that was dated within 1 month of the original that I have.
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I can tell you from personal experience as I have spent at least a hundred hours cleaning the engine and underside of my unrestored 67 Mustang. I used both Simply Green and Oil Eater http://www.oileater.com/. I used Oil Eater on oil/greasy areas and Simply Green on dirty areas. ...............
Be careful using oil eater (dilute it well) I've used it allot and use it to strip paint from parts
Just a thought and concern ;)
For floor panes it depends on what it on them. I've used paint reducer at times while other times Windex
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I found that Simple Green, if left on a painted surface a tad too long, will spot the paint permanently. For light cleaning, I prefer Formula 409.
For underbody heavy duty cleaning, such as removing road grime and non-factory undercoating, a lot of elbow grease and gasoline is very effective (use in a well-ventilated area, of course).
For wires, a rag soaked in lacquer thinner is wonderful. Just be careful cleaning wires installed in a car, as LT will remove paint.
I'm still looking for something to remove oil stains on new exhaust pipes that won't damage the metal finish...
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I use Blue Coral "wheel magic" . It is green in color. It is a good cleaner but not aggressive enough to harm paint. It will not stain engine block paint etc.Bob
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I didn't realize Oil Eater would remove paint. Thank you for the tip. That might be why my differential lightened up and the rear end houshing lost paint (more like flacking off than desolving) after removing the thick layer of grease build up. I thought the dulling of the diff paint and flaking of the rear end paint, was due to how hard I had to srub and the number of hours I had to scrub. I didn't see any damage caused by the Oil Eater when using it to clean oil/grease build up on the floor tunnel and the C4 transmission. I used Simply Green for the none greasy areas.
Would you use Blue Coral to clean around items that are attached to body color, for example fender bolts, door hinges?
Also since I have already used Oil Eater (used it at 50% strength and rinsed with water)and it is completely dry, do feel there could be residue (that I can't see) that could cause damage down the road? My main cleaning was done 2 years ago, and now I am going over a few areas that I missed.
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I didn't realize Oil Eater would remove paint. Thank you for the tip. That might be why my differential lightened up and the rear end houshing lost paint (more like flacking off than desolving) after removing the thick layer of grease build up. I thought the dulling of the diff paint and flaking of the rear end paint, was due to how hard I had to srub and the number of hours I had to scrub. I didn't see any damage caused by the Oil Eater when using it to clean oil/grease build up on the floor tunnel and the C4 transmission. I used Simply Green for the none greasy areas.
Would you use Blue Coral to clean around items that are attached to body color, for example fender bolts, door hinges?
Also since I have already used Oil Eater (used it at 50% strength and rinsed with water)and it is completely dry, do feel there could be residue (that I can't see) that could cause damage down the road? My main cleaning was done 2 years ago, and now I am going over a few areas that I missed.
The wheel magic product is designed for clear coated painted wheels and I have found it not to harm paint however I don't tempt fate as I don't leave it on long and flush area with water after cleaning. There are similar products out there but I like the wheel majic one better then others. Bob
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Thanks for the info folks....lots of good tips!
For underbody heavy duty cleaning, such as removing road grime and non-factory undercoating, a lot of elbow grease and gasoline is very effective (use in a well-ventilated area, of course).
On another car, I had good luck with WD-40...it just melts away some of the undercoating. Safer than gasoline too.
On the real thick stuff I used a torch on low to soften it and a putty knife to peal it off...then follow up with WD-40.
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Thanks for the info folks....lots of good tips!
On another car, I had good luck with WD-40...it just melts away some of the undercoating. Safer than gasoline too.
On the real thick stuff I used a torch on low to soften it and a putty knife to peal it off...then follow up with WD-40.
I'd like to see the price of WD-40 at gallon quantities so I could compare it to gas. Most people recommend kerosene, but it is also more expensive than gas (well, it was a few years ago when I did my car. I probably went through 10-15 gallons total; the car was covered with undercoating!).
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I'm sure WD-40 would be MUCH more expensive, but I feel a little safer under a car with a can of WD-40. ;)
I found that Simple Green, if left on a painted surface a tad too long, will spot the paint permanently.
I noticed that too. Probably a good idea to dilute 50/50. I worked on restoring a 50's soda fountain and we used diluted Dawn dish-washing liquid and that worked well too.
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I'm sure WD-40 would be MUCH more expensive, but I feel a little safer under a car with a can of WD-40. ;)
I noticed that too. Probably a good idea to dilute 50/50. I worked on restoring a 50's soda fountain and we used diluted Dawn dish-washing liquid and that worked well too.
I get a lot of strange looks when I state I used gas, especially when they see that I am a smoker!
Well, first, I never smoked when working with gas. I kept the garage bay door open, and the car was up on my lift. I used a metal oil drain pan, and poured a pint or so of gas into the pan, which was located outside of the garage. I then dipped a rag in the gas, took it inside, and went to work. When it became difficult to remove grime, that told me that the gas had evaporated from the rag. Back outside, dip, back inside, repeat over and over. I went through 3 or 4 five-pound bags of rags. A very safe process!
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Bob,
Where do you get your Blue Coral "wheel magic"? I can't seem to find it and on the web every place shows it is not available?
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I have been asked to detail a 64 Galaxie that I feel would best served by cleaning "as is" rather than disturbing as it fairly original.
Any tips/ cleaning agents etc on cleaning suspension components?
Kind regards
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I have been asked to detail a 64 Galaxie that I feel would best served by cleaning "as is" rather than disturbing as it fairly original.
Any tips/ cleaning agents etc on cleaning suspension components?
A small scraper for big chunks; several different size heavy bristle and medium grade brushes; double 00 steel wool (lightly used); paint thinner; Simple Green (or Krud Kutter from Home Depot); and others.
There's a list of don't use items: Evaporust (you need to cover the surface with paint as the bare metal is exposed); a wire wheel; a file; a scraper (basically anything that removes the surface finish, the patina); acid based products.
Jim
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A small scraper for big chunks; several different size heavy bristle and medium grade brushes; double 00 steel wool (lightly used); paint thinner; Simple Green (or Krud Kutter from Home Depot); and others.
There's a list of don't use items: Evaporust (you need to cover the surface with paint as the bare metal is exposed); a wire wheel; a file; a scraper (basically anything that removes the surface finish, the patina); acid based products.
Jim
Thanks for taking the time Jim.
Kind Regards :)
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I'd like to see the price of WD-40 at gallon quantities
You can generally buy gallons of WD at Lowes or Home Depot for about $20. I buy it that way and put it in spray bottles...