ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Body, Paint & Sealers => Topic started by: mcfly on October 19, 2011, 07:09:31 PM
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About 13 inchs or so of the rear frame rails on my 66 were rusted beyond repair. I got new frame rails and replaced this section but now am second guessing myself and am wondering would it have been better to have replaced the whole pieceso there would not be a seam..
It is not to late and I would rather fix now than being pissed down the road..
What is the general consensus on this replace only what is needed or replace the whole or bigger portion of the rail..?
mike
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As long as the remaining factory metal is good and your patching skills are up-to-snuff, I would advise removing only what is necessary.
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I had to make a similar decision on the front rails of a 66, I went with a patch - I should have replaced the entire section.
Jim
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Thanks for your replies but unfortunately two replies and two differant answers...
Back to square one, maybe a few more may chime in over the weekend..
mike
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It really depends on the skill of the person doing the welding. Personally, I prefer to leave as much original sheet metal as possible instead of replacing entire sections. It's very difficult to replicate the factory look once you separate spot welds. My vote is to section in wherever you can, but also keep in mind that this almost always takes more time to do and will increase labor cost if you're paying someone to do it.
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It really depends on the skill of the person doing the welding. Personally, I prefer to leave as much original sheet metal as possible instead of replacing entire sections. It's very difficult to replicate the factory look once you separate spot welds. My vote is to section in wherever you can, but also keep in mind that this almost always takes more time to do and will increase labor cost if you're paying someone to do it.
I agree with Charles 100%. The skill of the person doing it is very, very important as is the other part he mentions about the factory spot welds. If the right person does it, amazing things can be done, and it will look perfect. Finding that person may be another story, and some folks just prefer to not go that route due to the tons of extra time involved. Sometimes it just becomes a personal choice.
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Thanks guys ... Looks like keeping as much of the original is the way to go...
mike
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I would recommend sectioning the frame rail as needed. As far as a seam shown this can be avoided if properly done. If you overlap the rail at the sectioning point it will have a visible seam and is not the correct way to install the part. The proper sectioning procedure is to butt weld the rail and use a insert backing made out of a piece of the rail. This way the seam can be ground down and finished off to where the seam is smooth. As for as the factory spot welds being duplicated there is resistant spot welders out there that some shops have however access can limit you as the welding tongs have to be able to reach both sides. Most shops will use a M.I.G welder and plug weld the holes were the factory spot were drilled out. I have faked out some spot welds using a little body filler and while the filler is still soft dimple it with a round punch and it does OK. I know if you are not familiar with auto body some of this might be confusing however if you are having someone do this repair you can at least tell them how you would like the repair done. I hope this helps...
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. I have faked out some spot welds using a little body filler and while the filler is still soft dimple it with a round punch and it does OK. ......
Another "trick" is to use a pencil eraser (the eraser attached to the end is pretty close in size to the original spotwelds) that you wet first and turn slightly as you push it into and spin as you move (keeps from producing a rise in the middle of the effect) it away from the surface.
Just what I've heard ;)