Author Topic: Anyone have a trick for recreating the stippling effect of original seam sealer?  (Read 1501 times)

Offline kkupec02

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I am in the process of detailing out the trunk of my San Jose 1/26 GT500 now that all of the extra holes have been welded up from the old days of racing it and equipment relocation to the trunk. I took a couple of pictures of the factory "stippling" of the seam sealer. Does anyone have a trick on recreating that look?
1967 GT500 Built 1/26/67 #817
1967 Corvette Roadster

Offline kkupec02

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ps, the first picture is around the wheel well seam and the second picture is where they went well down the side trunk panel where the spare tire mount is.
1967 GT500 Built 1/26/67 #817
1967 Corvette Roadster

Offline sgl66

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Maybe the example with the air hose in this 3M video?
« Last Edit: December 29, 2021, 12:08:11 PM by sgl66 »
66 GT 6T09K12---- scheduled Oct 14, bucked Oct 13 '65

Offline J_Speegle

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There are a number of different techniques. IMHO all depends on if your trying to repair or spot in an area to look like the surrounding or if your laying down a new surface on new or stripped surface. I've used a large paint brush and have been very happy with the results since it allows me to reproduce the waves with thinner middle and inner/lower edge while producing a thicker edge on the ends or a turn of the original wand application.  And really works well since you have allot of control applying this way if your trying to bend a repair where with a gun or applicator you have less control of the final look.

The challenge with my method is that it also needs a lighter spray application to finish the edges, to make it look like it all was sprayed, along the edges in some areas towards the start and end of a pass on on the inner edge of a circular pass with the wand originally.  In many areas on San Jose cars you can see on original cars where each pass started and ended as well as where the pass traveled across the panel in mid pass due to the angle and reach of the spray applicator

Details and examples of the method mentioned above are shown in a thread and in the article section of the site

Do plan on using a smaller roller to see what I can do with it in a future application but at this point can suggest or provide results but wil likely try it on a car or just on three side box at some point to replicate areas like the front wheel well and other spots on the car
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline kkupec02

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I was trying to blend in the wheel well seams and the vertical and horizontal nearby areas in the front corners of where the gas tank sits. I had to repair the trunk holes that were in the middle of some of the factory seam sealer areas. I used a 3' roller today and it actually blended in pretty well.
1967 GT500 Built 1/26/67 #817
1967 Corvette Roadster

Offline Bossbill

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I use "Spectrum Sludge" mixed with their thickener.  You can buy just Spectrum without the "Sludge" thickener and it's just called "Spectrum Noise and Vibration Canceling."
The Sludge just thickens the mixture and has no effect on dry times. You have to experiment with the thickener ratio.

If you put the thickened mixture into a baker's bag and vary the slit width you can get various patterns. You can also buy baker's bags with attachments. A good quality sandwich bag also works in a pinch. Just cut out a corner.

I use the "squeeze out product and push" method to get the ripples.
Follow up with a shortened brush or nylon bristle brush as it reaches a harder, dryer state.
Experiment with an air nozzle as well.

A few days of testing will net you some cool results:
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=16775.msg120810;topicseen#msg120810
« Last Edit: January 02, 2022, 02:40:12 PM by Bossbill »
Bill
Concours  Actual Ford Build 3/2/67 GT350 01375
Driven      6/6/70 0T02G160xxx Boss 302
Modified   5/18/65 5F09A728xxx 347 Terminator-X 8-Stack
Race        65 2+2 Coupe conversion

Offline jwc66k

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I was under the impression that the trunk area was painted after the seam sealer was applied.
Jim
I promise to be politically correct in all my posts to keep the BBBB from vociferating.

Offline Bossbill

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The order I used --  as verified by Jeff's article on how to prepare the body of 67s -- shows primer, sealer and then exterior color paint.

The real sealer was a lot softer than Spectrum and had a decidedly "tarish" nature to it. So paint did not stick to the original sealer that well when bumped by anything in the trunk. 
Bill
Concours  Actual Ford Build 3/2/67 GT350 01375
Driven      6/6/70 0T02G160xxx Boss 302
Modified   5/18/65 5F09A728xxx 347 Terminator-X 8-Stack
Race        65 2+2 Coupe conversion

Offline J_Speegle

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We have to understand or consider that not all pictures posted and shared are of the final look. Often very helpful to show an area or process in steps :) but of course the reference could be related to what order the layers were applied. Nice thing is that you can't tell in that area, if well covered with paint, the order below

Yes the original spray sound deadener and some sealers (not all) has something, likely illegal today, that could discolor light colored cars over the years Especially whites. Sort this did not look that way on a new car

I purchased some spray sound deadener for the first car I did for someone else - long ago. Showed up in a recycled milk jug, was water based, had sand in it and it discolored the white within weeks. Look very original but as mentioned in retrospec likely not like day one. Never could buy the stuff again. Someone likely caught the guy making it in bath tubs in his backyard
« Last Edit: January 03, 2022, 03:06:15 PM by J_Speegle »
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline Bossbill

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I'm sure that series of pics wasn't the final. I went at it a few more times after those pics.
Bill
Concours  Actual Ford Build 3/2/67 GT350 01375
Driven      6/6/70 0T02G160xxx Boss 302
Modified   5/18/65 5F09A728xxx 347 Terminator-X 8-Stack
Race        65 2+2 Coupe conversion