ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Processes, Products & Techniques => Topic started by: Brian Conway on July 15, 2015, 01:20:53 PM
-
I would like to use the gun blueing process in lieu of the oil phosphate process on my 9/19/68 Metuchen; shock tower caps, the shock tower braces and perhaps down the road the hood hinges. Perma blue sells a kit but the liquids are in 3oz. containers. How much of this stuff is needed ? Thanks, Brian
-
I would like to use the gun blueing process in lieu of the oil phosphate process on my 9/19/68 Metuchen; shock tower caps, the shock tower braces and perhaps down the road the hood hinges. Perma blue sells a kit but the liquids are in 3oz. containers. How much of this stuff is needed ? Thanks, Brian
If you choose to go that route the 3 oz. containers should be enough to do at least a couple pairs of caps.
-
Thanks for the reply. Brian
-
I'm not sure I would do the gun blueing vs the phosphate and oil on those pieces as visible as they are. Doing that by hand on hood hinges not sure how good that can look. I have only done that on smaller parts really.
-
OK and thanks for the caution. I guess a re think is in order. Brian
-
I think you might be fine with the look of gun bluing on those shock mounts. Have worked for me. Would give it a try (pretty cheap to do and easy to change) and see how it looks compared to the other P&O finishes in the engine compartment.
I've also used it to touch up pieces that were P&O'ed if the repair area is not too large
Wish I had know this was going to come up today - was at the shop and could have taken some side by side comparison pictures :(
Just me
-
Just go buy a jug of prep and etch (Phosphoric Acid) at Home Depot for 15.00 bucks
Drop them in a stainless pot at about 180 degrees for 20 min. Done then wipe them with some motor oil and let them sit for a day. I have been Browning, Blueing and phosphating Zinc (GM)and Manganese (Ford)all week here.
Cold Blueing is not durable and provides almost zero rust prevention. Just be sure the parts are stripped clean first Brian.
-
Thanks Kerry. Great suggestions. So my next two questions are; where to get something big enough to hold the 2' shock tower braces and is sand blasting the parts necessary ? Brian
-
Welcome Brian :)
Restaurant supply store.
Chemically strip or wire wheel the steel parts unless you have glass bead a tumble capabilities.
-
Berryman in the 5 gal with a basket:
http://www.berrymanproducts.com/products/carb-and-parts-cleaner/berryman-chem-dip-professional-parts-cleaner/
I always liked the results...makes easy work of tough to clean engine parts but a clean bucket can do "paintables" too! I like having 2 buckets, one for the really cruddy stuff and one for a final clean (or carbs)...then simply change in a new bucket regularly. Time is money too, this stuff saves a lot of time.
Hood hinges/latches, door latches, trunk latches...easy-peasey!
-
Thanks Kerry. Great suggestions. So my next two questions are; where to get something big enough to hold the 2' shock tower braces and is sand blasting the parts necessary ? Brian
FYI the 2' shock tower braces are typically painted. Where your Metuchen braces un painted?
-
FYI the 2' shock tower braces are typically painted. Where your Metuchen braces un painted?
They are currently painted and it seems they are correct. Everything else listed is P & O. Thanks, Brian
-
DO NOT WIRE WHEEL!!!!! Bead blast them with a fine glass bead. If you use a wire wheel they will come out more of the blue gloss side.
Use the Birchwood-Casey de-greaser before you use the Perma-blue. You can use the cotton swabs or a cotton cloth. Coat them and let them process for about five minutes, keeping them saturated with the perma-blue the entire time.
Take them in and rise and wash them in lukewarm water. Pat them off and spray the hell out of them with Birchwood-Casey Barricade. ( Used to be called Gun Sheath) and comes in a 10 oz spray can. I put them in a ziploc bag and left them until I am ready to use them.
-
DO NOT WIRE WHEEL!!!!! Bead blast them with a fine glass bead. If you use a wire wheel they will come out more of the blue gloss side.
.................
Have to disagree - :)
Used a wire wheel for many years (brass brushes) and have been very happy with the final finish for bare stamped steel finishes such as rear shock plates
Just my experiences
-
+1
-
Wire wheels are not usually brass for grinders. If the surface is shiny, so will the blueing be shiny I have been using it for firearms for 30 years.
-
I work it back (lessen the bluing) with steel wool after the process to the fresh metal look. Have no problem with some shinny surfaces in areas especially where the metal was streched during the forming of the part
Have been using the gun blue repair fluid for over 30 years now also but mostly on car parts ;) So allot of different looks and final finishes from one product
-
I was using a fine wire wheel and when I applied the blue it was a bright shiny blue. Brass is quite different, perhaps that's why you didn't wind up with gloss.
As for firearms, I usually actually go the full polish route, which yields a very bright blue. I am going to toy with the hot process and see how that works. I just noted that blasted bolts tend to look more like the finish that AMK applies.
-
I was using a fine wire wheel and when I applied the blue it was a bright shiny blue. Brass is quite different, perhaps that's why you didn't wind up with gloss. ...
Nope - no need for me to color brass at this point. Are you burnishing in the blueing?
I'm simple brushing or dipping/soaking the piece
-
I have been lazy and using the Perma blue, which I usually apply with the large swabs they offer. Glass bead looks great with the Perma blue. I wire wheeled the E-brake idler, lever and clevis. They came out like a blued firearm. Not the finish I was looking for. The blasting with the fine glass bead looks great, and correct for Phos and oil finishes.
-
........... The blasting with the fine glass bead looks great, and correct for Phos and oil finishes.
Yes have used the bluing to reproduce phosphate & oil look in a pinch. In the new shop I've got to put a micro wave in so I can heat of the phosphate chemicals in very small batches so I can use that instead of using the bluing but until then ;)