ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1967 Mustang => Topic started by: RocketScientist on November 21, 2013, 08:32:04 PM
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The tail-light wiring loom in my 67 FB (SJ, 13 Jul 67) had been buthchered by a PO and has lost all its braiding up to the point it enters the trunk. I am wanting to neaten up the wiring and was wondering what was braided. I do have the wiring diagrams but they are a little unclear in places. For example, I have seen braiding on the licence plate light on a SJ convertible but the diagrams (or mine!) don't show it. Any guidence would be appreciated.
Also, has any one replicated the braiding yet. Even if its a reasonable fit, it would be better than what I have.
Thanks,
Brad
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Braiding began about 2inches from the connector plugs (near the dash), and was used throughout the harness. Where the wires break-out for the tail-lights, backup lights, and license plates, there may be about 1/2" or so of bare wire exposed on either side.
The braiding has to be applied prior to the molding of the various connectors and as the harness is being made. To replace it means to tear everything apart, start over, and build up the harness with molding the connector plugs being the last piece. Rhode Island Wiring can do this, but be prepared to fork out some dough.
By the way, the original braiding was cotton and can no longer be used due to various Federal regulations (flammability).
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Thanks, it seems doing the right thing is never easy....
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I forgot to confirm if the other lines: fuel tank, licence plate, back-up lights etc. remain unbraided.
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I forgot to confirm if the other lines: fuel tank, licence plate, back-up lights etc. remain unbraided.
License plate light wire (short lead that plugs into the main loom) has an outer sleeve, don't believe the back ups do. Don't see any on the fuel sender wire but it appears two different colored wires were used
For the license plate light wire its a dark colored jacket similar to the stuff (if not the exact same) that was used to cover the oil sending unit wire on some applications. I know guys have purchased it by the roll or from others with a roll of the stuff. Repo stuff is often off white in color and gets you a wuick point deduction on the show field. Know guys that have just taken the black felt pen to the repo and it may work but its still doesn't look original
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Do you know what the repo 'concours' wiring harnesses are like or how good the classic braid is from Painless. I guess the Judges will know but it'll probably fool 99% of the population.
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Do you know what the repo 'concours' wiring harnesses are like or how good the classic braid is from Painless. I guess the Judges will know but it'll probably fool 99% of the population.
From what I've seen around the shop the "Painless" versions of the original wire looms is not even close IMHO. For wire looms look for "Alloy Metal" products the wire looms are not 100% but much better than other products out there - just from what I've seen
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From what I've seen around the shop the "Painless" versions of the original wire looms is not even close IMHO. For wire looms look for "Alloy Metal" products the wire looms are not 100% but much better than other products out there - just from what I've seen
+1 . They painless stuff is good for restomod and function but not if you want it to look similar to factory.
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License plate light wire (short lead that plugs into the main loom) has an outer sleeve, don't believe the back ups do. Don't see any on the fuel sender wire but it appears two different colored wires were used
For the license plate light wire its a dark colored jacket similar to the stuff (if not the exact same) that was used to cover the oil sending unit wire on some applications. I know guys have purchased it by the roll or from others with a roll of the stuff. Repo stuff is often off white in color and gets you a wuick point deduction on the show field. Know guys that have just taken the black felt pen to the repo and it may work but its still doesn't look original
NPD sells a short length of the dark braid for the oil sending unit that also works well for the license plate light. The braid seems a little stiffer than the factory material but from a visual standpoint, it is a good match.
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I have seen people who very convencingly repair the braid on the taillight harness in the section seen in the trunk to the first tailight . What they do is slide a section of the braided material from the more protected area farther inside the quarter or in the sill plate to cover the section that can be seen in the trunk.you can't get it past that first tailight junction but many times that section which is the most visible and is tattered can be made more presentable by sliding up of a better section.
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I have seen people who very convencingly repair the braid on the taillight harness in the section seen in the trunk to the first tailight . What they do is slide a section of the braided material from the more protected area farther inside the quarter or in the sill plate to cover the section that can be seen in the trunk.you can't get it past that first tailight junction but many times that section which is the most visible and is tattered can be made more presentable by sliding up of a better section.
To expand on this idea - if you can find a donor car ;) Big Fords (like T birds often have allot of wiring in the interior of the car that might provide some exterior sheaving for this purpose. I should likely pick up some more for my up coming project while I can.
Thanks for the reminder Bob ;)
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Hi Bob & Jeff that is a very inspired idea and one that will work. Sometime in the past all my tail-light wiring was cut and connectors installed (why I don't know) and so I am able to re-sheave the existing wiring relatively easily. Once that's done, I'll remove the connectors, solder the wires and also re-sheave the wires in black plastic to hide the joins. This way I'll be able to save my original harness and have something that looks correct.
Jeff, I'll start looking but finding the correct match Down Under might be a challenge. When you are looking for your own project, if you are able to pick up some extra for me I would appreciate it. I would definitely make it worth your while.
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Hi Bob & Jeff that is a very inspired idea and one that will work. Sometime in the past all my tail-light wiring was cut and connectors installed (why I don't know) and so I am able to re-sheave the existing wiring relatively easily. Once that's done, I'll remove the connectors, solder the wires and also re-sheave the wires in black plastic to hide the joins. This way I'll be able to save my original harness and have something that looks correct.
Jeff, I'll start looking but finding the correct match Down Under might be a challenge. When you are looking for your own project, if you are able to pick up some extra for me I would appreciate it. I would definitely make it worth your while.
It is not out of the ordinary to see black friction tape at ends of the wire runs or at junctions where wires branch out from the loom. That is something that may help disguise a weave braid blending better by being more period looking then "re-sheeve the wires in black plastic."
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Haven't found tape at junction points on 67 San Jose built Mustangs though as mentioned at the very end (passenger side) you sometimes will along with the red label identifying the loom
Remember that the looms were made up by a bunch of sub contractors. This helps one understand why there are slight differences between one and another - like the end of the tapes sections fro examples. Remember we ran across a gas station once in the middle of the desert and the family was putting together the wire looms for T-Bird or Lincoln power seats in one of the garage bays using a wood and metal contraption that kept everything in order and in place during assembly
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I had no idea that the wiring looms had i.d. tags. Does anyone have any pictures?
Thanks,
Brad
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I had no idea that the wiring looms had i.d. tags. Does anyone have any pictures?
Sorry not real clear examples - what was handy
Normally one to ID the application (these are not from a 67 application) and another for the assembler of the loom
ECS makes some of these as decals for the 69-70 crowd or you can make them yourself if you have the time. Not a quick thing to do ;)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/0/6-291113021451-9651070.jpeg)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/0/6-291113021454-9671575.jpeg)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/0/6-291113021455-968531.jpeg)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/0/6-291113021456-969845.jpeg)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/0/6-291113021453-966830.jpeg)
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I realize this thread is for 1967 Fastbacks, but I thought these shots of my original 1967 Convertible tail light harness might be useful. The car was built in San Jose on Sept. 22, 1966...
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I realize this thread is for 1967 Fastbacks, but I thought these shots of my original 1967 Convertible tail light harness might be useful. The car was built in San Jose on Sept. 22, 1966...
Should apply - thanks for adding a 67 specific to the discussion. Your example aslo shows the label and assemblers label as mentioned
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That tail-light harness is in very good condition, far better than what I normally see throughout my cores and turn-ins for refurbishment.
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my 68 tail light harness rotted away in the areas not visible, and was completely fine where visible... i thought that was quite odd...
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my 68 tail light harness rotted away in the areas not visible, and was completely fine where visible... i thought that was quite odd...
Actually that is quite common. Those areas hold moisture and give shelter to mice. If the quarter is rusted I would guarantee that it is rotted off.
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Since my back is out and I can't do anything really useful, I decided to start replicating wire labels for my SJ fastback (see sig).
I've noticed a lot of interesting things:
The instrument panel wires have a green FoMoCo label with part numbers and a white assembly label.
The FoMoCo tag is fairly narrow (0.725 or less), so the C7ZB is on one line, the part number of 10B942 is on another.
The assembly label is slightly narrower at about 0.625 and reads:
JAN
DAY
TSX
in a repeating pattern. The text is not straight and could be a stamp. Not sure what DAY means, but it might be the assembler's initials. JAN appears to be for January, since all other items on the back of the dash panel also read 01 or A.
I only mention the instrument harness as it's very well preserved and original.
The main under dash harness is red tape with a yellow label over the top. The assembly label is within an inch of the Ford part number tag. both labels are about the width of the instrument panel labels.
The tail light harness on my 67 fastback was red but has disintegrated and cannot be read. However, what is left is the same width as the instrument panel harness Ford id label.
When I replicate this label it will also be red, have C7ZB on one line and 14405-A on the next.
If I follow the pattern of the instrument panel label for the tail light harness it should read:
TSX
C7ZB
14405-A
FoMoCo in a rounded box
repeat the pattern.
A parts car I have that is within a few thousand VINs at SJ as well and has this label format for the tail light harness, but in white:
S.X. -A
C7ZB
14405-A
FoMoCo in a rounded box
repeat the pattern.
I have found no assemblers tape on any of my tail light panel harnesses, but they are not unmolested like the Paperback Writer harness.
The pics below are from my 67 SJ parts car dated Mar 6 1967.
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Sorry your laid up - age brings with it pay back for all of our earlier and current choices as well as experiences.
Doing wire labels is kind of fun once you draw all the different logos and figure out/make all the letters and numbers - building a took box of sort that you can mix and match.
All the different colors and types of paper is a pain/film to locate though if you can find them
Remember that your taillight label will be different from a 67 Mustang FB label Correction (thanks to Mr Gaines for reminding me) For this year they would be the same.
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I've had back issues all of my life, but it seems to happen more often.
The '75 MPC skips over 67 as far as part numbers goes.
it goes straight to 68 which shows a 14405-A basic part number.
Remember that your taillight label will be different from a 67 Mustang FB label
Why is that? A Shelby wire harness should be a standard fb harness, albeit with a traveler for a trunk light. The Shelby parts are simply grafted onto the harness. The MPC does show a part number for the Shellby/Cougar extensions.
Here is the JPG for a standard dash label and assembly label, if anyone wants to play around with it. It includes text alone, color alone and the merge of the two as well as the assembly label for an early 67 SJ car.
[edit -- use different jpg file for color labels]
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(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=7490.0;attach=10412;image)
PaperbackWriter's post (http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=7490.msg42823#msg42823) with pic "05 - Tail Light Harness.JPG", shown above, calls out "Unknown" on the far left.
This is the rear quarter panel's interior light female plug. The right quarter panel light is a single line that travels from the passenger side A-piller, through the side sill and to that side's light.