Topic: 67 mustang no power

[Wedgeman]

Went to start my 67 390 C6 and when I turned the key...NOTHING....EVERYTHING IS BLACK....battery has full power...no headlights ( shouldn't they work anyway?)..no dash lights...yet when I cross the solenoid,,,it cranks over. Changed the solenoid & voltage regulator...nothing...any ideas out there??

[J_Speegle]

Electricity to me has always been like hydraulics. Your have the source (the battery) that flows through the wires to the rest of the car. 

Guess you have a wiring diagram and a test light or meter.

1- Got power leaving the solenoid?

2- Got power to the ignition switch?

3- Which wires are energized when the ignition switch is turn on?

4- Power to one of the small wires at the solenoid when the key is on?

5- Power to the other small wire at the solenoid when the key is turn to start?

6- All the fuses good and power to which ones with the ignition off


Those are the easy ones and the basis I would start with

Midlife should be around soon he's the expert in these matters. I just get lucky and fix things often in a none professional way.

[midlife]

Jeff has a good start on isolating the problem.  I'd check the fuse box first, then the ignition switch and the connector. 

There are lots of things I can think of that match your situation, too many to discuss without more information.  Could be as simple as a bad ground, but since you can crank the engine, that tells me that at least power is going to the ignition switch and back out to the starter solenoid.

[Keith Stem]

Power to the ignition switch and fuse block is by wire 38A, a black wire which is connected to the solenoid at the same terminal as the battery. 38A is spliced to wire 37, it is a black wire with a yellow stripe. This wire passes through a 4-pin flat connector (14290 / 14401). From this connector power goes to both the ignition switch and fuse block. This connector would be the first thing I would be looking at, I believe it is located near the brake master cylinder where the engine wiring goes through the firewall. An open connection on wire 38A or 37 will kill both the ignition switch and lights.

[dkknab]

Are you sure your battery is good? I did see you were able to turn over the car be jumping the solenoid. I had a similar problem with my 68 but it wouldn't turn over.  Don't remember if I checked my lights.  Changed starter solenoid and bought new neutral safety switch when I thought it might be good to really test my battery.  Took it to an auto parts store and it was dead. Put a new old battery in and the car started just fine.  Just a thought. Might not be the case at all.  I now have a battery tester for future issues.

PS my battery had good voltage,  just not any CCA which made me initially think of wasn't my battery.

[Wedgeman]

Thanks Guys!,,, ...Problem solved.  I started chasing the wires  off the solenoid...found the red wire on the power side had a cracked fitting & was hanging by a thread. New fitting, power restored..THANKS AGAIN TO ALL OF YOU!!!