ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Processes, Products & Techniques => Topic started by: machm1970 on January 29, 2015, 01:36:06 PM
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I have a '70 convertible that I'm in the process of restoring. The underside is covered with dirt, (it came from Oklahoma back country). it's not rusty, just dirty. I power washed twice with no avail. I don't want to "spray bomb" it black like the cars on ebay, but I do want to clean it up. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks,
Matt
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I have sprayed the underside with Simple Green, let it soak, used a brush, then power washed it. Sometimes I had to go back over it. I have also had good luck, when some grease was involved, using mineral spirits first, then the Simple Green to clean after.
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What ever you use test first. Be very careful and take your time using the least harsh product since oversprays will be removed when cleaning the undercarriage - almost no way around it when cleaning since even rubbing with a wet rag will remove some.
Have found some degreasers that would strip the paint off if left. Have used the same products watered down and using allot of rags. Once down to the original finish a wipe with wax and grease remover has been helpful for me - just make good you have plenty of ventilation and do small sections. a cheap wax with a cleaner can give a real nice final look - just stay away from sound deadener oversprays.
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I have a '70 convertible that I'm in the process of restoring. The underside is covered with dirt, (it came from Oklahoma back country). it's not rusty, just dirty. I power washed twice with no avail. I don't want to "spray bomb" it black like the cars on ebay, but I do want to clean it up. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks,
Matt
Steam cleaning will work better then power washing.
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I carefully used mineral spirits, a soft brush and a tooth brush and A LOT OF CLEAN RAGS. I laid on my back for a couple of weeks just gently scrubbing and wiping. It didn't seem to soften what Ford put on there at all. It removed everything else.
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Similar to others, I used a spray bottle of solvent (purchased from Tractor Supply) a parts cleaning brush and toothbrush style cleaning brushes wiping off the softened grease & filth with clean rags. My project is on a rotisserie with everything removed and yet it was a very time-consuming task. I averaged only a few square feet per visit. As the solvent dries (on next visit) you can see sometimes an area here or there that needed a little more time but in the end, the results were marvelous! Likewise, I did not have to deal with any significant rust. Some areas that were bare metal, any surface rust was scrubbed off easily with scotch brite heavy duty scrubbing pads bought at the $$$ store.
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Thanks Guys, I'm planning on going after it this weekend. 67gtasanjose, your car looks great!
Matt
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.......67gtasanjose, your car looks great........
Matt
Yes, a lot of factory detail. Looks like a good solid Mustang!!!
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Thanks Guys, I'm planning on going after it this weekend. 67gtasanjose, your car looks great!
Matt
Yes, a lot of factory detail. Looks like a good solid Mustang!!!
Thanks! Yes, it is fairly solid short of mice-urine caused rust & some rust on the inside of the floor caused by a previously plugged/leaking AC drain hose :'(
Awaiting the day the exterior paint comes off...About 6 more weeks of frigid air in Ohio to wait out ;)
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Steam cleaning will work better then power washing.
I've always been curious about steam cleaning. When I worked on dump trucks we used a 'Steam Jenny' for industrial strength cleaning. Jay Leno has a youtube video about an Optima steam cleaner that seems better suited for our kind of needs. I would like to try it someday.
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I've always been curious about steam cleaning. When I worked on dump trucks we used a 'Steam Jenny' for industrial strength cleaning. Jay Leno has a youtube video about an Optima steam cleaner that seems better suited for our kind of needs. I would like to try it someday.
they are great for greasy jobs . I had one for years and lent it out and the guy ruined it because he didn't follow directions. They are great cleaners but it is steam and it can be dangerous if used improperly.
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I went after it today with mineral spirits in a spray bottle and a stiff cleaning brush, it worked great! I found several places where I was able to find the factory grayish/green primer. They used a lot of sound deadener in some areas, especially where the bolts for the rear seatbelts come through.
Thanks,
Matt
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I went after it today with mineral spirits in a spray bottle and a stiff cleaning brush, it worked great! I found several places where I was able to find the factory grayish/green primer. They used a lot of sound deadener in some areas, especially where the bolts for the rear seatbelts come through.
Don't get too carried away - take it slow, take pictures and document as you would through the layers.
Your likely seeing sound deadener and spray sealant (around the inner seat belt anchor) similar product - different process and purpose that you IMHO should separate as you go
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Here's a shot after scrubbing with mineral spirits and citrus cleaner.
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Nice work. Looks good.
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It took me several days (and nights) to clean the underside of my 66 GT Fastback. There was nothing in the way, no drive train, no plumbing, no cables, which made it easier (yeah, right). On your back, on a creeper, crud falling in your face, hands wrinkled from solvents, sneezing from some nasty grease remover, a fun time.
I haven't had to use a steam cleaner service for a while, but the last time I did the car would not start for a while - too much moisture in the engine compartment I guess. That may be why I am reluctant to do use steam again.
Jim
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Here's a shot after scrubbing with mineral spirits and citrus cleaner.
Looks good! Keep us updated.
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I'm not sure if I'm going to do anymore than clean it. It does have light surface rusts in spots, but is in pretty good shape. I'm back and forth between documenting the underside, stripping it down and restoring it or just leaving it as is. Thoughts?
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It's only original once. ;) Especially if it's in nice shape.
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It took me several days (and nights) to clean the underside of my 66 GT Fastback. There was nothing in the way, no drive train, no plumbing, no cables, which made it easier (yeah, right). On your back, on a creeper, crud falling in your face, hands wrinkled from solvents, sneezing from some nasty grease remover, a fun time.
I haven't had to use a steam cleaner service for a while, but the last time I did the car would not start for a while - too much moisture in the engine compartment I guess. That may be why I am reluctant to do use steam again.
Jim
Definitely a given to have to dry the distributor cap out after steam cleaning. The steam condenses and turns into water droplets under the closed cap. WD40 comes in handy for that too because it displaces the water. Happened more times then I care to remember.