ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1969 - 70 Shelby => Topic started by: Bob Zink on April 12, 2015, 10:10:17 AM
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Does anyone know how to free a corroded tail pipe from the aluminum collector without breaking it? I've tried heat from a propane torch and a lot of PB Blaster. I can't break it free using a large pipe wrench.
Thanks.
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ASSUMING you wish to only save the tip...Do you have any way to slit the pipe say using a hand-held saw-zall blade? Using a power saw might be too aggressive but once you slit the pipe it will release.
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You will have to sacrifice the pixpe to save the Shelby unique collector. Cut the pipe off leaving a small lip to grab with a vice grip when the time comes extracting. Use a saw all to cut a slit in the pipe from the inside being careful not to saw into the aluminum. Once slit is made carefully pry upsides until it comes loose. Extract pipe once loose. Just did one.
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OK, what BOB says instead... ;D
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You will have to sacrifice the pixpe to save the Shelby unique collector. Cut the pipe off leaving a small lip to grab with a vice grip when the time comes extracting. Use a saw all to cut a slit in the pipe from the inside being careful not to saw into the aluminum. Once slit is made carefully pry upsides until it comes loose. Extract pipe once loose. Just did one.
Thanks Bob and 67gt. That makes perfect sense.
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That worked and I didn't break anything. :D
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Upon replacement use high heat anti seize for exhaust. Fixes the problem for the future.
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FYI for 69/70 GT350 exhaust at the Shelby unique exhaust collector ,there is a short adapter /reducer pipe that goes from the 2" GT350 exhaust (turn outs) into the exhaust collector which has a larger opening and made to accept the 2 1/4 " GT500 exhaust as well as the GT350 .That is if you are using original type exhaust . If aftermarket (except Fuller's) all bets are off. Scott makes a excellent correct looking adapter.
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Thanks. I used hi-temp anti seize on all fittings and threads. I have a bit of a Frankenstein system, but it all fit together very well and the NOS muffler sounds perfect IMO (Thanks Bob!) I used Fuller tailpipes and reducers(eBay), but the economy resonator pipes and h pipe. Using the better AMK clamps was worth the extra money since they have locking nuts. One mistake was I forgot to put the horseshoe clamps on before I installed the reducers. Now, there is no way to get them on with everything installed. The geometry of the economy exhaust hanger J clip is incorrect - it would have been worth the money to buy that item from Scott Fuller. Thanks for everyone's help.