ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1969 - 70 Shelby => Topic started by: john428 on May 20, 2015, 10:52:56 AM
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just got our 69 GT500 back together after a ground up restoration, replaced turn signal sequencer, and flasher with the one from TBranda, also all wiring harness's also from Branda, now the t/s switch burns up within 1/2 hour of driving, everything works fine at first, then it seems to get hot during use, installed second switch left sit for the weekend then drove car yesterday and after about 1/2 hour started having many problems, ie front flashers only( with key off) then emergency flasher switch acted up and alt/ and dual brake warning light started to flash, am I right in thinking that there might be a short to ground somewhere? any help? much appreciated
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just got our 69 GT500 back together after a ground up restoration, replaced turn signal sequencer, and flasher with the one from TBranda, also all wiring harness's also from Branda, now the t/s switch burns up within 1/2 hour of driving, everything works fine at first, then it seems to get hot during use, installed second switch left sit for the weekend then drove car yesterday and after about 1/2 hour started having many problems, ie front flashers only( with key off) then emergency flasher switch acted up and alt/ and dual brake warning light started to flash, am I right in thinking that there might be a short to ground somewhere? any help? much appreciated
YES!!! DO NOT LEAVE BATTERY CONNECTED TILL YOU SOURCE IT OR HAVE IT REPAIRED.
With all you have replaced, it will likely lead to the sequencer but since SO MANY things were done, I wouldn't limit the search there. Be carefull wiring hasn't fused together from the "burn". Long story short...you have a short
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Most likely a short, but don't overlook the possibility of an open ground. Strange things can happen when current to one device is grounding through another.
Excerpt from "Automotive Technology: A Systems Approach" By Jack Erjavec, Rob Thompson, p458:
https://books.google.com/books?id=nYHAAgAAQBAJ&pg=PA458&lpg=PA458&dq=open+ground+automotive&source=bl&ots=PAgjx_zXBl&sig=81pms3UTQcKq0_HP2jf-TqqBhf4&hl=en&sa=X&ei=w6xcVefcD47toATI5oCoCg&ved=0CEcQ6AEwCTgK#v=onepage&q=open%20ground%20automotive&f=false
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thanks for the info. I was wondering if the new sequencer could be at fault as the problem only happens while using vehicle, as I said, switch was replaced, and every thing worked, then car was parked over the weekend with no use, then driven approx. 45min and switch got hot and then problems started appearing, I then disconnected the battery and am now searching for the problem.
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I had problems in my 66 non-shelby with the TS switch burning up many years ago. I traced the problem to the fact that reproductions were using rivet heads larger than factory, and they would contact the steering wheel housing structure when I tightened up the wheel and then turned on power. I recommend examining them and if in doubt, simply stick a piece of black electrical tape over the rivet heads on the bottom side of the TS switch.
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emergency flasher switch acted up and alt/ and dual brake warning light started to flash
Did the alt and brake warning lights flash at the same time? How did the flasher switch "act up"? Your description implies that the warning indicators flashed when you turned on the emergency flasher switch. Did the exterior lights flash too, or only the warning indicators?
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The emergency flasher switch actually failed, if pushed part way in, the alternator light and belt light would flash with no exterior lights, pushed all the way in and it seemed to work properly, pulled all the way out and everything turns off, I think the switch got hot and now the wires on top are loose and the switch doesn't work smoothly, I plan to replace after I find out why it is getting hot and burning up.