ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Body, Paint & Sealers => Topic started by: awpinales on June 06, 2015, 12:15:57 AM
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I have seen this vary, but is there a standard that ford used for quality control? Putting it all back together and want to do it right, obviously the closer the better for show, but what is factory correct??
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In my experiences, especially at San Jose, the gaps were typically as good as any show car. Installers knew their jobs well and what was required, inspectors checked and down checked with gauges they carried. Of course some got through or were damaged/altered in transport. But buyers were as picky as they are today or IMHO even more so since it took them along tome to save up for a car purchase - more paid cash then they do today. Also the buyers, in general were more frugal since that they or their parents lived through the Great Depression here in the US
Have my fair share of pictures of unrestored cars that after almost 50 years still fit as good as any show car. I would offer that cars only fall out of alignment through use and things that happen and the these cars didn't fall back into alignment by chance all away around the car :) Believe that the assembly manuals in a number of examples spell out the gap measurements unless I have recalled incorrectly
Since your dealing with a car that likely has seen it share of abuse, big and small fender benders often you will settle for the best you can get, balancing out the space between panels or openings unless its real obvious. Of course the time to deal with this is before paint ;)
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But is there a generally accepted measurement? Paint stick? Are some gaps expected to be wider than others?
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But is there a generally accepted measurement?
Not that I'm aware of. Each builder will use what works for them it seems. Not like everyone is going to go through the effort to add 1/4 to the edge of a door or cut the edge off of a quarter panel at the trunk opening and fill the split. Though I've seen shops do both and more to get gaps where they wanted it. For judges (especially those that have never been bodymen) its a range - between too much and not enough
Are some gaps expected to be wider than others?
Stationary panels to other stationary panels will be much different and some of these will used sealant or gaskets that will force an approximate gap. Front fender to 65-68 cowl or headlight buckets to fenders might be an example of this.
While moving panels in an opening will be greater just because of the space needed around each to avoid contact. I think most are looking for even gaps all the way around without being excessive.
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Thanks Jeff.
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Thus car us a 17k mike 66 gt coupe. I have restored every bolt on this thing, and want it as close as possible. It did require new paint, and minor bodywork, all done by myself, but I've been trying to figure the body gaps. Why I didn't think about photographing this I don't know. My good friend and neighbor, Armond D'agostini, is very particular about gaps, and taught me a lot, but just want some supportive info.
Thank you, Adam.
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Adam - If it will help I can post pictures of well fitting, original 65-66 cars showing what they have far as panel gaps for visual support
Would also support how well aligned they often were. Your call
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Adam - If it will help I can post pictures of well fitting, original 65-66 cars showing what they have far as panel gaps for visual support
Would also support how well aligned they often were. Your call
Jeff, I'd like to see those. It's almost impossible to find a verified original '65-66 around here.
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No problem and this (the thread) is a good location for posting them since its in the general body area members looking for all the different specific years should see them here also.
Ok you asked - Lots of pictures will follow ::)
Tried to stay with original paint cars in most cases or at least non repaired. Just to start out the pictures I found this one interesting in that even though the car is somewhat rough (depending on where your from) the alignment (door, quarter and headlight extensions/bezel) still looks pretty good after all these years
Will label each picture just in case the discussion needs to focus on a specific picture ;)
1A
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615172248.jpeg)
Just rear valance examples
1B
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615172439-40922470.jpeg)
1C
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615172438-40912497.jpeg)
1D
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615172437-40901432.jpeg)
1E
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615172435-40892376.jpeg)
1F
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615172434-40881069.jpeg)
1G
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615172434-4087911.jpeg)
1H
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615172433-40411153.jpeg)
More to follow
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More- Angles of the pictures can effect the look/size of the gaps so tried to choose pictures that showed either fit or gab without exaggerating anything
First a couple that include a close up of what is referred to as factory orange peel. Noticeable in the reflections
2A
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615174649-40931348.jpeg)
2B
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615174650-4094491.jpeg)
"Parts Car" we picked up for someone ::) a few years back. One repaint without the jambs. Never found any body work under the repaint and only a couple of little dings after.
2C - Hood is slightly open in this shot
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615174848-40981438.jpeg)
2D - Hood is slightly open in this shot
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615174844-4095250.jpeg)
2E
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615174845-4096462.jpeg)
2F
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615174846-4097664.jpeg)
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Just a decent coupe that came into a local body shop. Nice fit on a well used (think it had over 130K miles) driver
Always focus on those unibody, suspension and engine related details - rarely slowing down and taking many interior or body/exterior pictures :(
3A
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615175949-410369.jpeg)
3B
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615175947-41022299.jpeg)
3C
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615175946-41011278.jpeg)
3D
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615175945-41001550.jpeg)
3E
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615175944-40991770.jpeg)
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A fastback that we focused on in its own thread a while back
4A
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615181139-41041283.jpeg)
4B
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615181140-41052015.jpeg)
4C
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615181141-4106517.jpeg)
4D
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615181142-41072400.jpeg)
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I can't see the hood in this picture. What I see is a pretty large gap between the door and the quarter, is it this you are referring to?
2C - Hood is slightly open in this shot
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/4/6-120615174848-40981438.jpeg)
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I can't see the hood in this picture. What I see is a pretty large gap between the door and the quarter, is it this you are referring to?
No in the long post just put the comment on the picture above where I intended to place it. Fixed
If I recall correctly the fit of the doors was pretty even and nice. Though the drivers door front gap appeared that someone had caught the door and tweaked it slightly at the stop arm of the hinge.
That particular picture (one you reposted) might be a good example of - the angle of the picture making things look tighter/wider than they were as mentioned in the text