ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1964 1/2 - 1965 => Topic started by: Lemondrop on December 29, 2015, 10:22:08 PM
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Racking my brain, have the osborne diagram but I can't see the clamps and locations on the firewall for where the plastic retainers snap in. Also I can't recall what the clips on the shock tower brace look like. Anyone got pics?
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Approximate build date and assembly plant will make a difference on the shock tower brace clips and also sometimes the orientation of the push straps.
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June 8th 1964
Duh! Forgot to add Dearborn!
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This is my original firewall, the pic I just dug up is going to help me a bunch :)
The downside is a couple holes I have should have a firewall pad retainer pin in them :(
Getting them in with stuff in the dash shall suck.
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Ok, I marked up my old firewall pic. I cut it out and replaced it with a repop panel but made sure all of the holes were lined up and drilled to the old.
The BLACK arrows I'm assuming are where my wiring clips went.
The PURPLE arrows I'm assuming are firewall pad pins?
The BLUE arrow I'm very uncertain of.
The RED I think is for the Neutral SS/ Reverse light switch wires.
The lower two holes I did not mark I'm pretty sure were used for 6 cyl cars for the throttle linkage.
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Found another picture of the firewall, yep the two purples are pad pins........
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I'm only tossing this one up as someone might like the paint line for reference.
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Ok, I marked up my old firewall pic. I cut it out and replaced it with a repop panel but made sure all of the holes were lined up and drilled to the old.
The BLACK arrows I'm assuming are where my wiring clips went.
The PURPLE arrows I'm assuming are firewall pad pins?
The BLUE arrow I'm very uncertain of.
The RED I think is for the Neutral SS/ Reverse light switch wires.
The lower two holes I did not mark I'm pretty sure were used for 6 cyl cars for the throttle linkage.
The blue is for a wire clip that gets attached from the inside... shifter light or console wiring.
The red is the a/c compressor power lead.
Yes, lower 2 are for 6 cyl.
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June 8th 1964
Duh! Forgot to add Dearborn!
The clips for the shock tower braces will be the small rectangular slide on, usually 2.
San Jose used the big gnarly ones, like for the rear fuel sender lead under the car.
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Plastic or metal?
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Plastic or metal?
For the braces? Both styles are metal with rubber coating where the wires attach.
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Got semi-lucky I guess. I took a good look at the brace this morning and one of the clips is still on the brace. It appears to not have rubber on it but I'm not pulling it down to figure out for certain. Now I just need to find another one as I dug through most of my stash buckets for over and hour looking for the clips and firewall pad pins. I found one pin, need to find another. I had a few that were rotted away from the old firewall/cowl water damage. I've been trying to scavenge them when I come across cars and save them, just have not found enough of them yet :)
A buddy has a dead 66 coupe we hauled home years ago so I'll check it for the clips and any firewall pins I can swipe. My biggest trouble I'm having with this repop firewall is the sheetmetal screws pull through the metal pretty easy when torquing them down. One of the other problems is a couple extra holes that they must have used for 65 to 70(what this firewall was billed to fit). The heater hose holes are also huge, which it is too late to weld them up now. I bought a set of 69/70 heater hose grommets from NPD that solved the problem. They don't look correct for the concours finish but the thought of gooping the openings with sealer to fill in the huge gaps did not sound exciting. MCA judges and other purists will frown on them but they might also frown on the late model power brake booster on the other side. I may try spraying them with the sealer and crusting them a bit to "hide" them some.
My goal is to make it as correct as possible, in hopes that when I open the hood the average person will feel they are looking at a "new" and correct 64.5 Mustang. I'll take a few pics in a little bit and post what I've got.
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Here is some random shots.
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The grommets can easily be obscured by wrapping strip caulk around the hoses and then spraying with sealant (or whatever you want to call the stuff on the firewall). Remember to remove the negative ground at the firewall when you spray and also cover up the engine. Should have been done before the engine went in.
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Yes, I know I should have shot it prior but mine did not have much on it as seen in the pics, so I figured I'd touch spray it when I got there.
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Assembly looks like it's coming along well. One item I noticed is the coil spring cover bolts. Dearborn cars usually have these installed the other way, nuts showing in engine bay.
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They were reversed when I took it apart. It might be incorrect but as a mechanic for a living, I fear bolts jutting out into an engine compartment :)
If I ever do judged classes, I'll reverse them back.
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They were reversed when I took it apart. It might be incorrect but as a mechanic for a living, I fear bolts jutting out into an engine compartment :)
Just remember/consider that if another owner sees the detail they are likely going to copy rather than ask :(
Also if you swap - see if you can try and cover the indents produced by the washer and nuts so it doesn't look like they have been moved-replace. They will leave marks and lift or chip paint during the process :(
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If I do swap them back, I'll do some touch up as needed. I put the bolts in after it was painted so they won't have any paint come off them and the damage to the inner fender should be minimal.
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The throttle pedal/linkage that bolts to the firewall, was it painted black or natural steel colored?
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phosphate & oil finish on those items.
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Well, would it be better to paint it with a semi-gloss black or cast iron look? I can't reproduce the P&O coating at home at this time.
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Well, would it be better to paint it with a semi-gloss black or cast iron look? I can't reproduce the P&O coating at home at this time.
Neither of those colors will look anything like phosphate though there might be a specific brand of cast blast that looks darker and flatter (closer) to phosphate but you'll need to buy a half dozen rattle cans to figure that one out at least.
It will just chip and rust if painted since the arm will move thousands of times. If you had to then Eastwood makes a phosphate colored spray paint so that then a semi-gloss clear over it.
Could try using the gun bluing repair fluid and don't burnish or steel wool it just oil it.
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I painted the fuel pedal and installed it. I used semi-gloss but as luck would have it the air was very humid and this dupli-color paint seems to always cloud when it is muggy out. The finish looks like a very dark P&O coating, so it is not terrible. I did research on doing the phosphate and oil coating procedure and I'm going to try and do some myself in the next week or so. If I can master it, I'll remove the linkage and re-blast it for a dipping.
I was thinking someone with the knowledge and or a good rule book should make master lists for every year Mustang that includes all of the phosphate and oil (parkerized) parts, that each car has. Would be a nice reference for the novice like myself.
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Good luck with the P & O plenty of help already posted in threads to help
I was thinking someone with the knowledge and or a good rule book should make master lists for every year Mustang that includes all of the phosphate and oil (parkerized) parts, that each car has. Would be a nice reference for the novice like myself.
You would have to break it down by plant also since different plants would have the same parts finished differently but sounds like a fun fairly easy project compared to some others.
But again if we make it too easy - then everyone will be restoring these cars :)