ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1964 1/2 - 1965 => Topic started by: Mstang on February 29, 2016, 07:55:05 PM
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What's the best way to secure the bracket that bolts to the cowl, looks like a special rivet that uses some kind of tool that creates and presses the prongs on the end, is this setup available, if not what options do l have to at least make it look correct on the outside. Thanks gary
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What's the best way to secure the bracket that bolts to the cowl, looks like a special rivet that uses some kind of tool that creates and presses the prongs on the end, is this setup available, if not what options do l have to at least make it look correct on the outside. Thanks gary
The original rivet had 6 or 8 prongs, I don't remember. There are replacements that have 4 or 6 prongs, again I don't remember, except it was 2 less prongs than the factory used. The type is a truss head and here's a source I've used before - http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivets/semitubular-rivets.html
If you look at the inside surface you will see that it's probable well chewed up. In that case, a standard semi-tubular rivet with a flat washer as a backing would be the way to go. Now for the fun part. The location of the rivet on the inside requires some type of special tooling to install, like an arm to hold the rivet rolling die, and you will need a die that matches the head, plus a press. You have crossed into the realm of cost of repair exceeding the cost of a new heater housing.
Jim
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Hi Jim, just came up from the garage, will go on line tomorrow and check that web site and see what I can come up with, the only issue i have Is the installation tool and how much stress it's going to put on the case using it, I had to do some fiberglass work in that area and being the original case I'm sure it's delicate, Jim thanks for your time helping me out Gary.
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A rivet clincher would not stress the case. You need one with enough reach to get at the rivet, of course (I can't remember how far in they are...). If you can machine your own dies, you could make one out of a large c-clamp. The dies would be relatively simple to make on a small lathe.
If you have to buy a clincher, well, see Jim's point about the cost of repair vs. replacement.
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I did find a crimping tool that may do the job. ($16) The original rivets in my heater box have a 6 pronged crimp. I searched everywhere and found a tool under leather riveting called a "Splash" tool. I am ordering one and will report the results when I try it out. It looks like it will take a tubular rivet which I have yet to spec out and order. I don't believe it will work as a punch and I am looking for some "C" clamps that will have the proper offsets to reach the areas I need.
Before I drill out and existing rivet does anyone know what the body diameter is? It is a 5/16 head diameter but there are a few choices for body diameter.
http://www.brettunsvillage.com/leather/tools/tools.html
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I don't believe it will work as a punch and I am looking for some "C" clamps that will have the proper offsets to reach the areas I need.
I think that's a wise choice. It would be easy to damage the heater case using it a a punch. Hard to judge exactly how much force to hit it with. Much easier to control it with a clamp and stop at exactly the right depth.