ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1966 Mustang => Topic started by: rrenz on May 04, 2016, 09:26:19 PM
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I picked up my 66 C Code jan Metuchen just over a year ago. Ive begun sort of a Driver restoration trying to keep as authentic as possible yet safe and reliable. Im about to start showing the car and would like to see if anyone has any suggestions for anything I'm missing or should change. Ive started with the engine and I'm working my way into the interior now.
Should I Have a paint ok decal on the cowl?
I believe i also have the wrong autolite spark plug decal however i need to repaint the air cleaner. was not painted with the block
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I'm no expert by any means and I will defer to those in these forums who are, but one thing I see is that the coolant bypass hose and clamps were painted with the block so therefore would be engine blue. Also, I believe there was some discussion that Metuchen was using the stapled wire type upper radiator hose clamps at this time but I'm not sure what the consensus was.
No paint OK decal on the cowl but paint Ok stamps are correct on cowl, inner fenders, and bottom side of hood. There are threads discussing that topic.
Hood hinges should be phosphate and oil and not painted.
Master cylinder should be blacked out.
Nice looking car! My car is also a Jan Metuchen hardtop. Would love to compare notes :)
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I don't recognize the white sticker on top of the radiator support, halfway between the center and the driver's side fender.
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I don't recognize the white sticker on top of the radiator support, halfway between the center and the driver's side fender.
+1. I wasn't sure about that either.
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Spacer should be steel color and not gold as that was reserved for the hi-po motors. I think the bottom of the fuel line clamp on the water pump should also be painted blue. Also I believe the heater hose that attaches to the water pump is too long and should be routed along the top of the manifold...Vacuum advance line should be steel not a rubber hose..Plug wires on the driver side need to be in this order from the front to back; 7,5,6,8
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Spacer should be steel color and not gold as that was reserved for the hi-po motors.
Alternator spacers in 1965 were made from a round steel bar with a hole for the 7/16 inch bolt, all spacers in 1966 were a gold finished aluminum extrusion with a bolt hold and a slot.
Vacuum advance line should be steel not a rubber hose.
It's the wrong style vacuum advance, hence the rubber hose.
Jim
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I don't recognize the white sticker on top of the radiator support, halfway between the center and the driver's side fender.
That is the rotunda anti freeze decal.
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Alternator spacers in 1965 were made from a round steel bar with a hole for the 7/16 inch bolt, all spacers in 1966 were a gold finished aluminum extrusion with a bolt hold and a slot. It's the wrong style vacuum advance, hence the rubber hose.
Jim
Thanks for clearing that up. I was getting worried. I actually have a steel spacer I took out to replace with the gold. And yes my advance was replaced by the previous owner. That's on the list yet ..
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Should I Have a paint ok decal on the cowl?
I have an April 66 NJ "survivor' FB and the Paint OK stamp is located right above the brake master cycl on the cowl. It also has the gold spacer
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First of all, this is an EXCELLENT driver, very nice!! If you really want to go further done the "concours road" I'll throw in some other findings that i think are correct from all of my findings on this site. Of course the others are dead on and will surely chime in if I'm wrong.. ;D
1. Battery tag under positive cable.. I believe this is usually removed?? there are some other threads on this.
2. Shock tower cover bolts, hood hinge bolts, hinge to hood bolts should be phosphate and oil, they look to be painted. The shock and shock cap bolts themselves were cadmium I think??
3. Undercoating around heater motor, main harness plug on firewall(next to master cylinder). Some folks go this far to duplicate what was done at the factory level and I believe this was at all Ford plants?
4. I think there should be a stamping on the alternator?
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October 1965 Metuchen build for me. Unrestored, but of course serviced over the last 50 years. I too have the gold spacer and the "Paint OK" yellow paint stamp above the master cylinder on the cowl. The inspector was "Adam." The only intact decal in the engine compartment was the silver service one located on the driver side inner fender apron. There were some glue remnants and outline for the "289" decal on the air cleaner and maybe a bit of glue on the driver side of the air cleaner for the Autolite decal, but maybe or maybe not on that one. No other remnants that I could find. Hood hinges are phosphate and oil, steel vacuum advance line. That's all that I can verify with my car. If you do a search you will find, as I did, that the master cylinder/cap/booster were all painted semi-gloss black as a unit by the supplier, that coolant decal has no resolution, maybe yes, maybe no; coolant bypass and clamps painted with the block so blue. You should check the assembly manual for the proper routing of the coolant hoses. If you don't have one I made a simple diagram. I got that wrong at my first show on my other car so I tripled checked it to make sure I got it right. There are lots of posts on the firewall sound deadener spray so if you go that route be sure to check out the many photos. Of course you want to make sure you are duplicating the Metuchen process if it differed from the other plants. Lots of previous posts you can search. Have fun! You have a very nice car. I am sure we'd all like to see more photos.
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Curious, being a Metuchen built car, do you have the metal body buck tag that goes on top of the firewall near the hinge, driver's side??
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Check this thread for more about paint ok stamps http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=6230.msg35359#msg35359
Mine is also an October 65 Metuchen build. It seems that Metuchen has a reputation for being consistently inconsistent and to further support that, my PAINT OK (by VENTRIGLIA) is on the passenger side of the cowl and the buck tag is on passenger side also.
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First of all, this is an EXCELLENT driver, very nice!! If you really want to go further done the "concours road" I'll throw in some other findings that i think are correct from all of my findings on this site. Of course the others are dead on and will surely chime in if I'm wrong.. ;D
1. Battery tag under positive cable.. I believe this is usually removed?? there are some other threads on this.
2. Shock tower cover bolts, hood hinge bolts, hinge to hood bolts should be phosphate and oil, they look to be painted. The shock and shock cap bolts themselves were cadmium I think??
3. Undercoating around heater motor, main harness plug on firewall(next to master cylinder). Some folks go this far to duplicate what was done at the factory level and I believe this was at all Ford plants?
4. I think there should be a stamping on the alternator?
thanks so much. yes I've been going through and replacing bolts here and there. i need new shocks so that will be next. thanks for the input on the undercoating. Ive been unsure about that. Ive also been looking high and low for an alternator stamp however haven't run across one for my particular setup.
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October 1965 Metuchen build for me. Unrestored, but of course serviced over the last 50 years. I too have the gold spacer and the "Paint OK" yellow paint stamp above the master cylinder on the cowl. The inspector was "Adam." The only intact decal in the engine compartment was the silver service one located on the driver side inner fender apron. There were some glue remnants and outline for the "289" decal on the air cleaner and maybe a bit of glue on the driver side of the air cleaner for the Autolite decal, but maybe or maybe not on that one. No other remnants that I could find. Hood hinges are phosphate and oil, steel vacuum advance line. That's all that I can verify with my car. If you do a search you will find, as I did, that the master cylinder/cap/booster were all painted semi-gloss black as a unit by the supplier, that coolant decal has no resolution, maybe yes, maybe no; coolant bypass and clamps painted with the block so blue. You should check the assembly manual for the proper routing of the coolant hoses. If you don't have one I made a simple diagram. I got that wrong at my first show on my other car so I tripled checked it to make sure I got it right. There are lots of posts on the firewall sound deadener spray so if you go that route be sure to check out the many photos. Of course you want to make sure you are duplicating the Metuchen process if it differed from the other plants. Lots of previous posts you can search. Have fun! You have a very nice car. I am sure we'd all like to see more photos.
thanks for the comments. This car was a bit of a basket case when i got it. its been a challenge. the input is much appreciated.
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Curious, being a Metuchen built car, do you have the metal body buck tag that goes on top of the firewall near the hinge, driver's side??
I Do as a matter of fact. these two shots were taken right after i got the car. considering what had been done to it over the years I was rather astonished that it was still even there. The original tie down plates were still under the car also.
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I Also did a full Single Exhaust with this car. Not having immediate access to a welder I did use the original style FoMoCo clamps. Can anyone say if this would be acceptable in a judged environment?
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what kind of 'judged environment' are you speaking of? if it is one that includes undercarriage authenticity then you have some work to do under there.
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what kind of 'judged environment' are you speaking of? if it is one that includes undercarriage authenticity then you have some work to do under there.
Oh i certainly do.the underside is far from show quality. I can't say that id be trying to get any kind of concours status i just like to replace with that sort of ambition.
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I'm no expert by any means and I will defer to those in these forums who are, but one thing I see is that the coolant bypass hose and clamps were painted with the block so therefore would be engine blue. Also, I believe there was some discussion that Metuchen was using the stapled wire type upper radiator hose clamps at this time but I'm not sure what the consensus was.
No paint OK decal on the cowl but paint Ok stamps are correct on cowl, inner fenders, and bottom side of hood. There are threads discussing that topic.
Hood hinges should be phosphate and oil and not painted.
Master cylinder should be blacked out.
Nice looking car! My car is also a Jan Metuchen hardtop. Would love to compare notes :)
I was just going over your info. my car was built on the 21st. i see your the 20th. very cool.
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Buck tag on passenger side for this October 1965 build.
You might check your radiator. In the photo it looks to me like rounded straps like SJ builds. I think all Dearborn and Metuchen have square straps. My side strap ID on the driver side starts with DEP.
If it was a basket case when you started then you did a fantastic job. Congrats.
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Buck tag on passenger side for this October 1965 build.
You might check your radiator. In the photo it looks to me like rounded straps like SJ builds. I think all Dearborn and Metuchen have square straps. My side strap ID on the driver side starts with DEP.
If it was a basket case when you started then you did a fantastic job. Congrats.
I haven't done much research on the radiator. I am pretty certain that it's not original. I haven't found any markings on it that would lead me to believe it be correct or original for that matter.
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Buck tag on passenger side for this October 1965 build.
You might check your radiator. In the photo it looks to me like rounded straps like SJ builds. I think all Dearborn and Metuchen have square straps. My side strap ID on the driver side starts with DEP.
If it was a basket case when you started then you did a fantastic job. Congrats.
There has recently been lengthy and detailed discussion of Metuchen radiators to add to this conversation.
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=13562.0
Regards,
Ron