ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1967 Mustang => Topic started by: orgnl70 on May 25, 2016, 08:50:41 PM
-
Any thoughts or suppliers for the flexible material that fills the gap between the front wheel well splash guard and the inside of the fender? Looks to be somewhere between thick tar paper or some sort of friction material. All ready have a source for the wire staples, just need to find this material. Trying to be factory correct.
-
Don't they sell this stuff in reproduction form?
Originally its pretty thin rubber sometimes with reinforcement threads running through the material
Used front and rear. You didn't provide what year, when it was built or what plant your car is or we might be able to provide more info. As you can see in this mid year 67 San Jose example the front sections are different in the material they used on the top (picture) example . That material looks very similar to the material used to make the rear license plate light shield that attaches to the taillight panel under the bumper though thinner
In the picture of the rear splash shield originally the seal material would have been attached the complete top edge - it appears this car lost that at some point or when the fender was removed
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/5/6-250516221212-5742552.jpeg)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/5/6-250516221211-57412064.jpeg)
-
https://www.musclecarresearch.com/67-68-rear-lamp-shield
Muscle car research has access to what appears to be exact type rubber material used on orig splash shields.
They sell license plate shields as seen in the above link but I don't see any splash shields.
Possibly they would sell some of the material, or maybe could be convinced to make up some splash shield rubbers?
I purchased a rear license plate shield a few months ago - It matches the assemblyline stuff very well.
I sent them a message inquiring about this and will update if they get back to me.
Kurt.
-
What are you using for the wire staples?
-
What are you using for the wire staples?
You may have a similar problem I found in the 64-66 equivalent aftermarket splash guard kits. The pre-made staples supplied in those kits were 0.062in dia which would require each hole in the metal frame to be drilled larger and then match drilled to the "rubber" material. I found my original staples were 0.047in dia so I made my own. Using 0.047in dia hard drawn wire, I cut many, many pieces to a 1 1/8 inch length, then bent them in an arbor press with a homemade die to the traditional "U" shape. You might say that's a lot of work, I had three cars of my own plus two of a friend to do. There's still two cars to go.
Jim
-
I didn't bought it (yet), but NPD sells a splash shield kit rubber (16A572-2A) for 67-68 mustang and they say (quote) :
" RUBBER SEAL KIT, SPLASH SHIELD, CONCOURS, SET 8 PIECES PLUS STAPLES, MATERIAL IS EXACTLY AS ORIGINAL AND CONCOURS APPROVED, US-MADE"
Is there anybody who has purchased this? And is it correct?
Can imagine that those staples aren't the same diam. as Jim already explained.
But if they say it is concours approved, I would assume that the rubber is correct?
Kind regards,
Jeroen
-
But if they say it is concours approved, I would assume that the rubber is correct
When a web site or catalog says that a part is "concours approved", "MCA approved" or anyone of a dozen other phrases we so often see in ads
It means NOTHING.
IMHO it's there sometimes to identify a better/more expensive reproduction part from another in some limited cases or more often to just "fluff" sales like an infomercial. Would you believe it's usage more or less if you found the term used in a Ebay or Craig's List ad? Know a handful of people that believe that if its said on TV it has to be the truth since the government would not allow anything untruthful to be broadcast ::)
We could fill a bunch of threads with lists of "concours" parts that may still result (if you choose to buy, install and show the car with them in place) deductions at a show.
-
67-68 dash pads for one.
-
I can certainly have these made if I can get my hands on good originals to use as a template. If, however, NPD has already done that there's not much of a reason for me to do it, too.
FWIW I don't die cut the lamp shields I sell and I don't have the raw material lying around to sell. I work with a manufacturer who produces the shields to my specifications.
-
Scott, thanks for answering my inquiry.
Hoping someone here has tried the NPD "concours" product and can comment on the quality.
Kurt.
-
I have an additional question concerning the second picture that Jeff posted...
Would the black paint used on the splash shield guards be the same black paint as used at the outside off the engine bay/aprons?
To put it otherwise, if you look at the same picture (in originally state), would it be all the same black?
Thanks for clearing this out.
kind regards,
Jeroen
-
I have an additional question concerning the second picture that Jeff posted...
Would the black paint used on the splash shield guards be the same black paint as used at the outside off the engine bay/aprons?
To put it otherwise, if you look at the same picture (in originally state), would it be all the same black?
Thanks for clearing this out.
kind regards,
Jeroen
It could be but since originally the shields were painted at a different location ,different conditions with different materials the odds of it being 100% the same are remote IMO . I would make them slightly shinier then the engine bay or aprons but that is just me.
-
I have an additional question concerning the second picture that Jeff posted...Would the black paint used on the splash shield guards be the same black paint as used at the outside off the engine bay/aprons?
No. For your year and plant they were painted off the car as Bob wrote and are generally (from original examples) were a glossier black that might be a result of how the paint was applied plus the source of the paint was different or at least a different batch. Compare the finish on the front splash shield in the picture provided above and notice its finish. Same provider as the rear much of the time
-
Just a thought...
Is it helpfull for anybody that I continue with making templates (1/1 scale) regarding the correct shape and dimensions for the splash shield rubbers?
in attachment first drawing that I made from my originals...
Blue lines are the edges of the rubber, black lines are the dimensions and the red lines are the 'cut through lines'.
If not necessary, please say (I can spend my time much better on my car ;))
Jeff, if you think it is usefull and you want to move it to another gallery, please do.
have a nice weekend,
Jeroen
-
What are the dimensional units? What is the size of the R3 hole? I review drawings as part of my day job...just stuff I notice.
Although the drawing may be 1:1, it would be nice to know the dimensions if the printer isn't quite up to snuff.
-
I didn't bought it (yet), but NPD sells a splash shield kit rubber (16A572-2A) for 67-68 mustang and they say (quote) :
" RUBBER SEAL KIT, SPLASH SHIELD, CONCOURS, SET 8 PIECES PLUS STAPLES, MATERIAL IS EXACTLY AS ORIGINAL AND CONCOURS APPROVED, US-MADE"
Is there anybody who has purchased this? And is it correct?
Can imagine that those staples aren't the same diam. as Jim already explained.
But if they say it is concours approved, I would assume that the rubber is correct?
Kind regards,
Jeroen
OK, somebody has now purchased the NPD kit and has a report.
The rubber-like material, the size (thickness) and texture are exact. Nice and soft (flexiblle) while the old ones are rigid from age. Most importantly,it looks as though the template they use to die-cut the rubber seals from is spot-on too! This may be a FIRST for reproduction parts, somebody call the Press! (Mustang Times)
OK, now for the staples. Well, they had to miss the mark somewhere, after all...we're talking reproduction Mustang parts ;) The staples are too large and though I have not installed the rubber strips yet. The thicker staples will make the manual process much more difficult. Like Jim stated, it looks like it would be time saved to make your own staples rather than to fight the bigger diameter "toughies" that are provided in the kit. I ran into the staples issue before (coupe quarter trim felt seal) and used the wire from some temporary key ring tags I have at work (I am an auto repair shop owner). Maybe Tractor Supply Store or a hardware store has something a bit easier to use available. I need to go to Tractor Supply for other reasons soon, I'll report back if I find anything.
The rear shield seals will be going back on as they were removed...on the back sides of the shields with the staples pointing forwards on the car. (rubber 1/2 visible when installed). I have a San Jose 67 and apparently, they were putting these in backwards during this time period of 67's.
-
Nice report. Thanks Richard.
-
FWIW, I've decided to replace one of my bent, destroyed San Jose splash shields with one from a Dearborn or NJ example (at least for now). After removing the sound deadener or undercoating and detailing out the pitting in a areas, I've then also reversed the dimples caused by the staples. I did this to simulate the direction change of the staples as they pierced the sheet metal since the Dearborn (possibly NJ) example had the staples going the wrong (other) way ;)
I will unfortunately be losing a bit of detail caused by a clamping fixture the metal stamping company used along the way. The pitting on the only other original I had was in this area and I figure the "clamping impression" I loose will be a better compromise than the badly distorted/bent one without the pitting.
Maybe somebody has a nicer one they need to get rid of? (right side rear splash shield) 10 of 66 would be AWESOME 8) ;D
-
The rubber-like material, the size (thickness) and texture are exact. Nice and soft (flexiblle) while the old ones are rigid from age. Most importantly,it looks as though the template they use to die-cut the rubber seals from is spot-on too! This may be a FIRST for reproduction parts, somebody call the Press! (Mustang Times)
+1 on this report...I've just started restoring the set for the 68 GT350 project I'm working on. The NPD kit is very good. I'm not getting too wound up over the staple size...I think it should be easy enough to drill out the existing staple holes a bit with the rubber clamped in place so you have some guide holes to push the staple through...I'll report back if this doesn't work.
-
+1 on this report...I've just started restoring the set for the 68 GT350 project I'm working on. The NPD kit is very good. I'm not getting too wound up over the staple size...I think it should be easy enough to drill out the existing staple holes a bit with the rubber clamped in place so you have some guide holes to push the staple through...I'll report back if this doesn't work.
I thought I might also use the Staples provided by NPD but gave a swing (baseball pun) at making some of the Staples myself. I can get 3 Staples out of each one of the key rings. I found a total of 40 staples should be a good count with having a few extras. 13-14 rings is enough.
-
What is the best way to fold staples over when installing? Were they simply bent over at a 90 or was there some curve to it like you would see when using a normal paper staple gun? (that's what it looks like in Jeff's second picture)
-
What is the best way to fold staples over when installing? Were they simply bent over at a 90 or was there some curve to it like you would see when using a normal paper staple gun? (that's what it looks like in Jeff's second picture)
Yes, like a typical stapler by what I have seen.
I think this detail matters a little more on the San Jose built rear splash shields (with the rubber on the rear side of the shield) since they are much more easily seen.
Pretty sure duplicating the stapled look might prove to be harder than is sounds.