ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Body, Paint & Sealers => Topic started by: carguytroy on August 12, 2018, 08:06:37 PM
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Starting the rust repair on my 1967 S code Convertible. I removed the torque box because it was toast(rusted through) and of course there is more work to do on the floor supports. Should I patch these supports or just replace them? I see there are date codes on the supports up underneath. thats why I'm asking if I should patch them instead of replace them. The rear part of the supports are just surface rusted. They are really solid other than where they attach to the front frame rails. Here's a couple of pics of the drivers side support.
(https://i.imgur.com/D9R7eVNh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8mrJpdNh.jpg)
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Patching what needs to be repaired is ideal, but usually involves more hours to accomplish. If you have access to a proper spot welder than can replicate the look of the original spot welds, then that would be another option if going with panel replacement instead of patching.
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Patching what needs to be repaired is ideal, but usually involves more hours to accomplish. If you have access to a proper spot welder than can replicate the look of the original spot welds, then that would be another option if going with panel replacement instead of patching.
Also with the proper hand stamps the date codes in the sheet metal sections can be replicated .
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Also with the proper hand stamps the date codes in the sheet metal sections can be replicated .
Or, the originals cut-out and welded in...
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Also with the proper hand stamps the date codes in the sheet metal sections can be replicated .
What would be the proper size? I see McMaster Carr has several different sizes. And would that be a good place to get some stamps from? I shouldn’t have to use them on anything else but these if I end up replacing them. I have a Dynacorn whole bottom of the car I can source pieces from that came with the car when I purchased it. But I want to do this one right and do not want to replace anything I do not need to. If patching is a good option here then that’s what I will do. The previous owner(s) cut the floors out but did leave the trans tunnel and it’s in good shape. Whole car just has surface rust on it. Very little patching to do.
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What would be the proper size? I see McMaster Carr has several different sizes. And would that be a good place to get some stamps from? I shouldn’t have to use them on anything else but these if I end up replacing them. I have a Dynacorn whole bottom of the car I can source pieces from that came with the car when I purchased it. But I want to do this one right and do not want to replace anything I do not need to. If patching is a good option here then that’s what I will do. The previous owner(s) cut the floors out but did leave the trans tunnel and it’s in good shape. Whole car just has surface rust on it. Very little patching to do.
Dynacorn floor panels would need to be modified to look like original. You can see the difference if you compare one to the other especially around the drain holes. There are other places but you will see them if you compare close. Of course you would only stamp a sheet metal piece that had gotten rusted or damaged beyond repair otherwise it is best to cut out and re use the original panel. There are different sizes of metal stamps and you would simply compare various sizes stamp to the particular metal panel for a comparison of the correct stamp. Sorry no easy button but that IMO.
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Also with the proper hand stamps the date codes in the sheet metal sections can be replicated .
Does something like this need to be brought up at a judged event ?
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Does something like this need to be brought up at a judged event ?
The absence of a date code in a known/visible area would be fair game for judging in MCA/SAAC concours. It might not add up to a full deduction, depending on what it is, but it surely would be something noted.
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Dynacorn floor panels would need to be modified to look like original. You can see the difference if you compare one to the other especially around the drain holes. There are other places but you will see them if you compare close. Of course you would only stamp a sheet metal piece that had gotten rusted or damaged beyond repair otherwise it is best to cut out and re use the original panel. There are different sizes of metal stamps and you would simply compare various sizes stamp to the particular metal panel for a comparison of the correct stamp. Sorry no easy button but that IMO.
What would need to be modified other than the teardrop shaped stamp in between the shifter hole and the seat platform? I can see that my original tunnel does not have that. The previous care takers of the car cut out both sides of the floor to the side of the trans tunnel so I have nothing for comparison.
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Also, the toe boards/bottom of the firewall is cut out also due to rust. I see NPD sells two different kinds. One is a Canadian repro and the other is Taiwan or something. Is one patch panel better than another? They are not completely cut out so I would not need to use the whole panel.
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What would need to be modified other than the teardrop shaped stamp in between the shifter hole and the seat platform? ...
There was an early and late version of the floor pan used on the assembly line so that difference depends on when your car was built. Being a convertible sort of hides the detail but it will still be there ::)
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There was an early and late version of the floor pan used on the assembly line so that difference depends on when your car was built. Being a convertible sort of hides the detail but it will still be there ::)
Car was built in July of 1967. There's no teardrop stamp. Here's a couple of pics. Like I say most of it is gone but the tunnel is still in captivity.
(https://i.imgur.com/P82IcYsl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eJxW1vtl.jpg)
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Car was built in July of 1967. There's no teardrop stamp. Here's a couple of pics. Like I say most of it is gone but the tunnel is still in captivity.
(https://i.imgur.com/P82IcYsl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eJxW1vtl.jpg)
Probably better try and find some late production 67 floor pans to compare your repro pans to and or take pictures of to refer to . The dynacorn pans are made to be of a more universal appearance across a number of years .That is why you have to make adjustment if you want them to look exact for a given production time period. It depends on your expectations. Many weld them in and forget about it. I would never think of doing that but I and others here are on the other end of the spectrum. It is a matter of making choices.
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You may consider finding a donor coupe with a nice original floor to cut out, with a build date close to yours from the same assembly plant. Going to be a lot of work to stitch in new floors onto the tunnel.
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You may consider finding a donor coupe with a nice original floor to cut out, with a build date close to yours from the same assembly plant. Going to be a lot of work to stitch in new floors onto the tunnel.
+1 on a couple full floor
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I have done the floor repair both ways and would choose the full floor hands down. You had better be a pretty good welder to hide all of the repair on a partial replacement.
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I have done the floor repair both ways and would choose the full floor hands down. You had better be a pretty good welder to hide all of the repair on a partial replacement.
Agreeed. I did long pans n a 66 I had and it looked decent when I was done but the full floor is the way I’m going to go. I have the part that came with the car and the previous owner(s) already cut the floor out on both sides so I don’t have the pieces that were taken out to compare to or reuse. A car with good floors around here would be too nice of car to cut up most likely and my wife would most likely kill me in my sleep if I buy another car. I have a slight automobile addiction and have several cars at the moment and I’m out of room. Need a bigger garage.
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If anyone has any pics of a late 67 floor pan they would like to share I would definitely appreciate it where the floor in my car is mostly long gone. Just for comparison to the Dynacorn floor. I do see one other difference where the rear seat goes. The Dynacorn has rises where the parking brake cable goes and the stampings in the original go down rather than up.
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If anyone has any pics of a late 67 floor pan they would like to share I would definitely appreciate it where the floor in my car is mostly long gone. Just for comparison to the Dynacorn floor. I do see one other difference where the rear seat goes. The Dynacorn has rises where the parking brake cable goes and the stampings in the original go down rather than up.
Guess you missed this thread when you check the search function ;)
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=18111.msg114612#msg114612
Should help with the two major areas