ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1968 Mustang => Topic started by: bullitt68 on January 01, 2019, 03:55:30 AM
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I am looking or confirmation of finishes for the following components as I have read conflicting reports and seen photos showing different finishes and want to make sure that I get the right info. Also wondering if any of these parts have fasteners that would get red dye
Thanks
Lower Control Arms (Bare Metal Ends & Black Dipped)
Upper Control Arms (Bare Metal)
Upper Control Arm Shaft/Bolt (Phosphate)
Upper Control Arm Shaft/Bolt Nuts (Silver Zinc)
Upper Control Arm Nuts Through Apron (Silver Zinc)
Coil Springs (Gloss Black with Yellow Green Paint daubs)
Strut Rods (Bare Metal)
Strut Rod Rubber Bushing Large Washers (Silver Zinc)
Strut Rod Rubber Bushing Nuts (Red, Purple or green Silver Zinc))
Strut Rod Nuts at Control Arm (Silver Zinc)
Upper Ball Joints (Bare Metal)
Upper Ball Joint Nuts (Gold Cad)
Lower Ball Joints (Bare Metal)
Lower Ball Joint Nuts (Gold Cad)
Ball Joint Rivets (Silver Zinc)
Spindle (Bare Metal)
Spindle Cap (Bare Metal)
Spindle Nut (Silver Zinc)
Rotor Backing Plates (Semi Gloss Black)
Callipers (Bare Metal)
Caliper Clips (Silver Zinc)
Caliper Cover (Silver Zinc)
Shocks (Semi Gloss Black)
Shock Nuts (Silver Zinc)
Shock Absorber Bracket (Phosphate or Semi Gloss Black)
Upper Control Arm Coil Spring Seat/Perch (Bare Metal)
Upper Control Arm Nuts & Washers (Silver Zinc)
Lower Control Arm Bolts, Washers (Silver Zinc)
Brake Rotors (Silver Zinc)
Leaf Springs (Bare Metal)
Leaf Spring Shackles (Bare Metal)
Shackle Bolts (Phosphate)
Shackle Nuts (Silver Zinc)
Leaf Spring Bucket Bolts (Phosphate)
Leaf Spring Bucket Nuts (Silver Zinc)
Leaf Spring Banding (Bare Metal)
Shocks (Semi Gloss Black)
Shock Nuts Upper (Silver Zinc)
Shock Nuts Lower (Silver Zinc)
Lower Shock Plates (Bare Metal)
Rear Brake Line Junction Block (Yellow Brass)
Rear Brake Drums (Bare Metal)
Axle Lug Nuts (Bare Metal)
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One could probably type a paragraph on each of those items and not approach the knowledge that you could have by just searching this site and looking at all that has been displayed in photos and words. You are going to have to search using the proper spelling, much of what you typed has grammatical errors which will cause you to not find anything useful. For example spindal is an error, calliper etc. Spell check is your friend.
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+1 most of these items have already been discussed at length, many with excellent pictures.
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One could probably type a paragraph on each of those items and not approach the knowledge that you could have by just searching this site and looking at all that has been displayed in photos and words. You are going to have to search using the proper spelling, much of what you typed has grammatical errors which will cause you to not find anything useful. For example spindal is an error, calliper etc. Spell check is your friend.
I have updated the list with what I was able to deduce, but more confirmation is required. I have been thrown off by mistakenly referencing Shelbys. Please advise if there are any glaring errors.
Thanks
Lower Control Arms (Unpainted Ends & Black Dipped)
Upper Control Arms (Unpainted)
Upper Control Arm Shaft/Bolt (Phosphate)
Upper Control Arm Shaft/Bolt Nuts (Silver Zinc)
Upper Control Arm Nuts Through Apron (Silver Zinc)
Coil Springs (Gloss Black with Yellow Green Paint daubs)
Strut Rods (Unpainted)
Strut Rod Rubber Bushing Large Washers (Silver Zinc)
Strut Rod Rubber Bushing Nuts (Red, Purple or green Silver Zinc))
Strut Rod Nuts at Control Arm (Silver Zinc)
Upper Ball Joints (Bare Metal)
Upper Ball Joint Nuts (Gold Cad)
Lower Ball Joints (Unpainted)
Lower Ball Joint Nuts (Gold Cad)
Ball Joint Rivets (Silver Zinc)
Spindle (Unpainted)
Spindle Cap (Unpaintedl)
Spindle Nut (Silver Zinc)
Rotor Backing Plates (Semi Gloss Black)
Callipers (Bare Metal)
Caliper Clips (Silver Zinc)
Caliper Cover (Silver Zinc)
Shocks (Semi Gloss Black)
Shock Nuts (Silver Zinc)
Shock Absorber Bracket (Phosphate or Semi Gloss Black)
Upper Control Arm Coil Spring Seat/Perch (Unpaintedl)
Upper Control Arm Nuts & Washers (Silver Zinc)
Lower Control Arm Bolts, Washers (Silver Zinc)
Brake Rotors (Silver Zinc)
Leaf Springs (Unpaintedl)
Leaf Spring Shackles (Unpainted)
Shackle Bolts (Phosphate)
Shackle Nuts (Silver Zinc)
Leaf Spring Bucket Bolts (Phosphate)
Leaf Spring Bucket Nuts (Silver Zinc)
Leaf Spring Banding (Unpainted)
Shocks (Semi Gloss Black)
Shock Nuts Upper (Silver Zinc)
Shock Washers Upper
Shock Nuts Lower (Silver Zinc)
Shock Washers Lower
Lower Shock Plates (Bare Metal)
Rear Brake Line Junction Block (Yellow Brass)
Rear Brake Drums (Unpainted)
Axle Lug Nuts (Unpainted)
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I have updated the list with what I was able to deduce, but more confirmation is required. I have been thrown off by mistakenly referencing Shelbys. Please advise if there are any glaring errors.
Thanks
Lower Control Arms (Natural Ends & Black Dipped)
Upper Control Arms (Semi Gloss Black)
Upper Control Arm Shaft/Bolt (Phosphate)
Upper Control Arm Shaft/Bolt Nuts (Zinc Cad)
Upper Control Arm Nuts Through Apron (Zinc Cad)
Coil Springs (Gloss Black with Yellow Green Paint daubs)
Strut Rods (Natural)
Strut Rod Rubber Bushing Large Washers (Natural)
Strut Rod Rubber Bushing Nuts (Red, Purple or green Zinc Cad))
Strut Rod Nuts at Control Arm (Zinc Cad)
Upper Ball Joints (Natural)
Upper Ball Joint Nuts (Gold Cad)
Lower Ball Joints (Natural)
Lower Ball Joint Nuts (Gold Cad)
Ball Joint Rivets (Zinc Cad)
Spindle (Natural)
Spindle Cap (Natural)
Spindle Nut (Zinc Cad)
Rotor Backing Plates (Semi Gloss Black)
Callipers (Natural)
Caliper Clips (Natural)
Caliper Cover (Zinc Cad)
Shocks (Semi Gloss Black)
Shock Nuts (Zinc Cad)
Shock Absorber Bracket (Phosphate or Semi Gloss Black)
Upper Control Arm Coil Spring Seat/Perch (Natural)
Upper Control Arm Nuts & Washers (Zinc Cad)
Lower Control Arm Bolts, Washers (Zinc Cad)
Brake Rotors (Natural)
Leaf Springs (Natural)
Leaf Spring Shackles (Natural)
Shackle Bolts (Phosphate)
Shackle Nuts (Zinc Cad)
Leaf Spring Bucket Bolts (Phosphate)
Leaf Spring Bucket Nuts (Zinc Cad)
Leaf Spring Banding (Natural)
Shocks (Semi Gloss Black)
Shock Nuts Upper (Zinc Cad)
Shock Nuts Lower (Zinc Cad)
Lower Shock Plates (Natural)
Rear Brake Line Junction Block (Yellow Brass)
Rear Brake Drums (Natural)
Axle Lug Nuts (Natural)
A couple things that are glaring .Upper Control Arms (bare steel ) .Ball Joint Rivets (phosphate). The word natural does not fully describe the different bare metal looks . A good example is the rear leaf springs, from the factory the description natural does not explain the dark spring steel look they typically have. Although some things were Cadmium plated more were zinc plated. I believe some of the finish's would be better described as zinc chromate gold (zinc dichromate) , zinc silver . I'll let others catch the rest.
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A couple things that are glaring .Upper Control Arms (bare steel ) .Ball Joint Rivets (phosphate). The word natural does not fully describe the different bare metal looks . A good example is the rear leaf springs, from the factory the description natural does not explain the dark spring steel look they typically have. Although some things were Cadmium plated more were zinc plated. I believe some of the finish's would be better described as zinc chromate gold (zinc dichromate) , zinc silver . I'll let others catch the rest.
Great thanks Bob I agree regarding the natural description too. I will continue to research and note corrections. Eventually I hope to have a comprehensive list for reference as it is a lot of digging to get to the bottom of every part on the car
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Whittling away a few at a time but agree that your falling into the old mindset when "natural" only meant "unpainted" and does not fully describe the final look of the item. Some of us have spent many years trying to wordsmith rules and descriptions like your doing. Lots of fun ::)
Coil Springs (Gloss Black with Yellow Green Paint daubs) This would be incorrect (paint marks) if the viewer had possibly a different body style or options. None are mentioned in the title or in a forward for your list.
Shock Absorber Bracket (Phosphate or Semi Gloss Black) -
Spindle Cap (Natural) - Not sure what this part is
The following have multiple "finishes" Some because they are made up of multiple pieces while others have a combination of finishes (machined and case for example) on the same part
Spindle (Natural)
Upper Control Arm Coil Spring Seat/Perch (Natural)
Brake Rotors (Natural)
Rear Brake Drums (Natural)
Might want to include the washers with the following
Shocks (Semi Gloss Black)
Shock Nuts Upper (Zinc Cad)
Shock Nuts Lower (Zinc Cad)
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Whittling away a few at a time but agree that your falling into the old mindset when "natural" only meant "unpainted" and does not fully describe the final look of the item. Some of us have spent many years trying to wordsmith rules and descriptions like your doing. Lots of fun ::)
Coil Springs (Gloss Black with Yellow Green Paint daubs) This would be incorrect (paint marks) if the viewer had possibly a different body style or options. None are mentioned in the title or in a forward for your list.
Shock Absorber Bracket (Phosphate or Semi Gloss Black) -
Spindle Cap (Natural) - Not sure what this part is
The following have multiple "finishes" Some because they are made up of multiple pieces while others have a combination of finishes (machined and case for example) on the same part
Spindle (Natural)
Upper Control Arm Coil Spring Seat/Perch (Natural)
Brake Rotors (Natural)
Rear Brake Drums (Natural)
Might want to include the washers with the following
Shocks (Semi Gloss Black)
Shock Nuts Upper (Zinc Cad)
Shock Nuts Lower (Zinc Cad)
Thanks Jeff I got that info from a chart that specified those paint daubs for 1968 Fastback, with no AC & big block. I have been told that the coil springs should be unpainted. Perhaps I should update my list to unpainted as the description instead of natural or bare metal. FYI I have check several resources for Mustang restoration and it looks like many of the sources are not accurate, which is why I am double checking here
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Thanks Jeff I got that info from a chart that specified those paint daubs for 1968 Fastback, with no AC & big block.
Yes I remember your other threads and can cross reference or remember those discussions but someone just happening across this single thread would not known all the details and might assume that the information automatically could be applied to their similar but not exactly the same car and make a mistake in doing so. Just thought all the details should be included in/with the list
I have been told that the coil springs should be unpainted.
That is what I've found and what we were told by the workers at and the people that laid out the San Jose plant
FYI I have check several resources for Mustang restoration and it looks like many of the sources are not accurate, which is why I am double checking here
Yep plenty of opinions and info that has been out there for now over 20 years.
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Yes I remember your other threads and can cross reference or remember those discussions but someone just happening across this single thread would not known all the details and might assume that the information automatically could be applied to their similar not not exactly the same car and make a mistake in doing so. Just thought all the details should be included in/with the list
That is what I've found and what we were told by the workers at and the people that laid out the San Jose plant
Yep plenty of opinions and info that has been out there for now over 20 years.
Thanks Jeff
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Dear Jeff / Bob,
Can I ask what on that list differs for my March 68’ Metuchen GT390 FB?
Hoping it’s all the same as it’s a very useful list indeed.
Although it’s been hard to find anything definitive re paint daubs.
The only big block Metuchen spring paint daubs I have are from coralsnake.
Thanks,
Hugh (mungus)
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Dear Jeff / Bob,
Can I ask what on that list differs for my March 68’ Metuchen GT390 FB?
Hoping it’s all the same as it’s a very useful list indeed.
Although it’s been hard to find anything definitive re paint daubs.
The only big block Metuchen spring paint daubs I have are from coralsnake.
Thanks,
Hugh (mungus)
They are typically all of the same with the exception of the upper shock bracket is PO coated instead of semi black for SJ cars.
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Thanks Bob
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While we are on this topic, how about sway bars? I didn't notice them mentioned in the list.
I have seen a Gold winning 68' GT' with a black bar with one green daub (SBF), but I’ve also seen one in natural steel (maybe phosphate and oil?) finish on its sway bar.
Mine is the standard 390GT 7/8" bar, but its been repainted - black. Daubs gone.
So just what finish should a 68' 390GT sway bar have then?
Perhaps worth including SJ and NJ?
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Typically I see black semi gloss black on them from all plants.
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The more web searching I do and the more "survivor" photos I see The more I think black is correct... ;D
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Agree black finish is what would current be expected and what I've been seeing on originals. NOS are typically also painted black but they painted allot of parts that were meant to be stored on the shelves for extended time periods
A couple of originals for example - Of course have more ;)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/12/6-200419173602.jpeg)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/12/6-200419173619.jpeg)
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Agree black finish is what would current be expected and what I've been seeing on originals. NOS are typically also painted black but they painted allot of parts that were meant to be stored on the shelves for extended time periods
A couple of originals for example - Of course have more ;)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/12/6-200419173602.jpeg)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/12/6-200419173619.jpeg)
Hi Jeff. Perhaps it is hard to tell but drag/centre link does appear to be coated and not painted in those photos. My understanding is that the sway bar is painted but the drag link is phosphate and oil from the factory. Would this be a correct assumption.
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Hi Jeff. Perhaps it is hard to tell but drag/centre link does appear to be coated and not painted in those photos. My understanding is that the sway bar is painted but the drag link is phosphate and oil from the factory. Would this be a correct assumption.
Parts that make up the steering system (minus the PS control head parts) would have been heat treated parts so the oil quenching would have produced a darker finish (depending) on how old the oil was they were using at the time. This finish (other than the machined surfaces or parts added) would have a similar darker finish similar to P & O though it wasn't originally. Understandable?
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The 1968 Chassis Assembly Manual (pg 34) lists that the rear brake drums were painted black for the V8 cars with steel styled wheels. For an early 68 San Jose car, is that correct or were they left natural steel?
v/r
Tony
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More finish questions/confirmations ro per brake parts.
Looking to confirm the various finishes for the parts in the photos. We are just about to get up and running with our platting setup and will be doing zinc, cad & dichromate. I will post some photos, but first I want to double check which parts get zinc, cad & dichromate or phosphate.
First Photo: Looking to confirm if these look like original or correct parts. I assumed they were from the markings.
Second Photo: I am not sure if the wheel cylinders are original and assume that the other parts are service replacement/reproductions. Would also like to confirm what size is correct.
Third Photo: Was planning to buy a rebuild kit but would like to confirm spring color as I have seen different kits
Are there any preferred/recommended vendors for any of these parts
Thanks
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Looking to confirm the correct finish on the differential vent hose bracket. Mine was painted black, but my understanding is that it should be phosphate. I am also assuming that the vent is correct/original judging by the clamp. Should it be natural or plated?
Thanks
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Looking to confirm the correct finish on these brackets for the front power steering hoses. Mine were painted black, but my understanding is that it should be natural. I am also assuming that the bolts should be phosphate.
Thanks
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Looking to confirm the correct finish on these brackets for the front power steering hoses. Mine were painted black, but my understanding is that it should be natural. I am also assuming that the bolts should be phosphate.
Thanks
Your understanding needs to be updated. Brackets are black.Bolts are phosphate.
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Looking to confirm the correct finish on the differential vent hose bracket. Mine was painted black, but my understanding is that it should be phosphate. I am also assuming that the vent is correct/original judging by the clamp. Should it be natural or plated?
Thanks
Bracket was bare steel .The vent tube was bare steel.
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Your understanding needs to be updated. Brackets are black.Bolts are phosphate.
Thanks Bob appreciate it
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More finish questions/confirmations ro per brake parts.
Looking to confirm the various finishes for the parts in the photos. We are just about to get up and running with our platting setup and will be doing zinc, cad & dichromate. I will post some photos, but first I want to double check which parts get zinc, cad & dichromate or phosphate.
First Photo: Looking to confirm if these look like original or correct parts. I assumed they were from the markings.
Second Photo: I am not sure if the wheel cylinders are original and assume that the other parts are service replacement/reproductions. Would also like to confirm what size is correct.
Third Photo: Was planning to buy a rebuild kit but would like to confirm spring color as I have seen different kits
Are there any preferred/recommended vendors for any of these parts
Thanks
Wheel cylinders are replacement .Originals had the smaller 1/8 bleeder nipples.
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Bracket was bare steel .The vent tube was bare steel.
Thanks Bob
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Wheel cylinders are replacement .Originals had the smaller 1/8 bleeder nipples.
Thanks Bob. Are there decent replacement units that are acceptable or should I source originals.
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Thanks Bob. Are there decent replacement units that are acceptable or should I source originals.
You can check with Chris Brown http://www.brownsautobodyservices.com/classics . He sells a nice small bleeder replacement.
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You can check with Chris Brown http://www.brownsautobodyservices.com/classics . He sells a nice small bleeder replacement.
Great thanks Bob I appreciate it
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We are up and running with our new plating system and I am looking forward to platting any parts I can in house. I will start with some brake parts to see how they turn out as I plan to replace most of the brake parts in the photo with new parts that come in the full rebuild kit. I will of course refinish the parking brake levers and the brake shoe adjusting levers as they appear to be correct originals. I will also replace the bake cylinders as mine are pitted in the sleeve. Does anyone have photo of an original cylinder & boots. I am not sure what cylinders there are that came in my car. Also which side has the gold dichromate parts. I believe one side is bright silver zinc and one side is gold dichromate
Thanks
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You might want to look here:
https://www.deadnutson.com/1968-69-rear-brake-cylinders-with-small-bleeder-c6oz-2262-a/
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You might want to look here:
https://www.deadnutson.com/1968-69-rear-brake-cylinders-with-small-bleeder-c6oz-2262-a/
Chris Brown is the one that has had brake cylinders made and wholesales them to retailers like Jack.
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I will start with some brake parts to see how they turn out as I plan to replace most of the brake parts in the photo with new parts that come in the full rebuild kit. I will of course refinish the parking brake levers and the brake shoe adjusting levers as they appear to be correct originals. I will also replace the bake cylinders as mine are pitted in the sleeve. Does anyone have photo of an original cylinder & boots. I am not sure what cylinders there are that came in my car. Also which side has the gold dichromate parts. I believe one side is bright silver zinc and one side is gold dichromate
There's not many parts from those pics that get plated
Gold:
Adjuster brackets
Hold-down pin washers (there were a washed out Gold)
Hold-down pins
Bleeders
Would never re-use the C clamps for the park brake bracket, they are one-time use pieces
Zinc:
Cable slides
Cable ends were zinc, hard to duplicate with cable crimped, NOS is best
Adjusters: I usually do those in phosphate
Wheel cylinder push pins: Tumbled or blast and quick 15s dip in phosphate
The finish of the wheel cylinder bolts changed during the years, have seen phosphate and zinc, best to get feedback on that one.
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Right. My point is that the ones he has are some other aftermarket brand, not the originals which are faithfully reproduced.
Chris Brown is the one that has had brake cylinders made and wholesales them to retailers like Jack.
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You might want to look here:
https://www.deadnutson.com/1968-69-rear-brake-cylinders-with-small-bleeder-c6oz-2262-a/
Thanks Royce appreciate it
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Chris Brown is the one that has had brake cylinders made and wholesales them to retailers like Jack.
Thanks Bob going to order a set from Browns
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There's not many parts from those pics that get plated
Gold:
Adjuster brackets
Hold-down pin washers (there were a washed out Gold)
Hold-down pins
Bleeders
Would never re-use the C clamps for the park brake bracket, they are one-time use pieces
Zinc:
Cable slides
Cable ends were zinc, hard to duplicate with cable crimped, NOS is best
Adjusters: I usually do those in phosphate
Wheel cylinder push pins: Tumbled or blast and quick 15s dip in phosphate
The finish of the wheel cylinder bolts changed during the years, have seen phosphate and zinc, best to get feedback on that one.
Thanks Charles that is great info
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Right. My point is that the ones he has are some other aftermarket brand, not the originals which are faithfully reproduced.
The reproduction wheel cylinders Jack sells are Chris Browns as far as know . Chris is the only one to come out with a reproduction small bleeder Ford wheel cylinder that I am aware of. Regardless of who you buy from you get the same part.Both are great vendors to buy from . I think that if you buy from Chris direct you will not get a better price then Jack.
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The reproduction wheel cylinders Jack sells are Chris Browns as far as know . Chris is the only one to come out with a reproduction small bleeder Ford wheel cylinder that I am aware of. Regardless of who you buy from you get the same part.Both are great vendors to buy from . I think that if you buy from Chris direct you will not get a better price then Jack.
Browns quotes $99.00 on their website
DNO quotes $106.00 on their website