ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1968 Mustang => Topic started by: tim_morrison82 on February 08, 2019, 11:21:59 PM
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Can someone please show me the holes in the radiator support for the factory AC hoses. My AC car has a ford replacement radiator support. Are they drilled holes or is the entire rectangle cut out?
Dec 67 J code As per signature
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Here you go. From San Jose at or a little after your cars build date
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/11/6-080219233802.jpeg)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/11/6-080219233719.jpeg)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/11/6-080219233731.jpeg)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/11/6-080219233748.jpeg)
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Dont you love ford. Just took a closer look at the spot the AC was supposed to go and found the factory dimples. Now to find a holesaw the right size.
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Dont you love ford. Just took a closer look at the spot the AC was supposed to go and found the factory dimples. Now to find a holesaw the right size.
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Dont you love ford. Just took a closer look at the spot the AC was supposed to go and found the factory dimples. Now to find a holesaw the right size.
Should be a no-brainer...
Nothing like answering your own questions. A simple measurement between your slits and there you are.
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Richard : I guess my brain is a "no brain" today as I can't figure out what slits he can measure if that is what he is trying to add to the radiator support with no cutout for the hoses/tubes ? The dimples only give the center of the two locations for the hole saw, then you need to cut out the two tangents between the circles.
I suppose if you had the correct grommet, you could measure the width of the groove in the grommet and that would be close.
What am I missing here ?
Bob
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Richard : I guess my brain is a "no brain" today as I can't figure out what slits he can measure if that is what he is trying to add to the radiator support with no cutout for the hoses/tubes ? The dimples only give the center of the two locations for the hole saw, then you need to cut out the two tangents between the circles.
I suppose if you had the correct grommet, you could measure the width of the groove in the grommet and that would be close.
What am I missing here ?
Bob
In the O.P.s picture, you can make out two vertical slits and two dimples.The slits look to be stamped all the way through so only a hole saw needed. (look again at the o.p.'s image, attached again to this post NOTE: image loaded 'sideways')
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Richard : "Upon further review", OK, I see the slots you are talking about now. But is it just an optical illusion that the slots do not appear parallel ? The bottom appears to be more narrow than the top ?
Bob
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Richard : "Upon further review", OK, I see the slots you are talking about now. But is it just an optical illusion that the slots do not appear parallel ? The bottom appears to be more narrow than the top ?
Think it's just the angles. You can see in the pictures I posted some similar affects while others, at different angles, don't show that
For others here is an illustration showing the orientation of the planned holes and the reliefs already present in the radiator support. Not perfect but you get the idea.
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/11/6-090219220327.jpeg)
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Bingo. Exactly. The repros probably do not have this luxury. I dont have any decent hole saws so i wont rip it open just yet. Its much easier than i anticipated. I hope this post helps others. Cheers
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May find an electrition as they use holesaws often, maybe you could borrow one or pick one up on e-bay
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This discussion has of course prompted me to go back to pictures I took of my 67 Convertible during disassembly. This allowed me to get straight, head on shots of parts that otherwise would have been a challenge. The first two pictures clearly show the "slits" (with no optical illusion), which I have noted in the first picture by yellow arrows ; the dimples are also evident(once you stop looking at the crud and rust marks), and I have noted them with yellow circles. Note that I have also marked with two Red arrows, holes in the angled portion of the radiator support. This goes back to the early 80's when my Dad had the car, Even being a convertible (and actually even more so), driving in the St. Louis 90° + temperatures and 95% + humidity in July and August was pretty uncomfortable. My Dad said he wanted to add A/C. Of course it had to be "original Ford". Even back then, the 1967 Hang-on units were not easy to come by. I was lucky enough to not only find him an original 67 Hang-on Unit, but a NOS Installation Kit (brackets, hoses, fan blade, condenser, clutch, belts, hardware, etc.) that included everything except the compressor. I had moved to Omaha by then, so on one, or probably two or more, of our trips back to St. Louis, I got it all installed and running for him.
In looking at the pictures I have attached, I then wondered why I didn't use the cutout location we have been discussing. I then pulled the Installation Instructions (copy attached), and found out why. The Instructions for the Hang-on clearly show that the holes were to be cut where I cut them. I believe this is because of the difference in the Condensers. For some reason, I didn't complete the opening between the two circle cutouts, but obviously I didn't need to, and maybe I was thinking ahead, that sometime, "down the road", it would be easier to fill in two holes, than one big oval opening.
Note that the Instructions call for two , 1-1/4" holes two be cut where the dimples are (apparently there were dimples in both places for the Factory A/C and the Hang-on, although being over 35 years ago, I don't remember, and was not int documenting thing like that back then.
For your cutout, I would suggest just buying a good hole saw (check your measurement, but probably the same 1-1/4"). By good, I mean the heavy duty, hardened steel type, similar to the one in the attached pictures. These usually run from $10-$12 in the 1-1/4" size range, and are readily available at Hardware stores (Ace), Menards, Home Depot, Lowes, etc.They come in several different ways ; with mandrel, with arbor, and by themselves, where they thread onto a mandrel that you have, or purchase separately. I prefer the type that has an arbor attached with a set screw for a pilot bit (usually 1/4"), that you supply, and can move to other similar types of different sizes (several companies make these including Morse, Ace, Red Devil, etc.). Over 40 plus years, I have accumulated sizes from 1/2" to 2-34" (usually available in 1/8" increments, and some in 1/16). These have many uses other than just automotive (household, remodeling, woodworking, etc.) and you won't regret buying a good one. Of the probably dozen and a half I have, there is not one that I have used only once or twice.
Hope this helps.
Bob
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I think a electrician's chassis punch will give a much clean hole then the hole saws that utilize a drill.
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I think a electrician's chassis punch will give a much clean hole then the hole saws that utilize a drill.
+1 Especially if you can't find a hole saw for sheet metal
In either case take time to deburr (s?) the edges or you might be sorry later. Not a bunch just enough to make sure they don't cut you or parts.
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I dont regret asking this question one bit. Thanks guys. New tools on the shopping list
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I think a electrician's chassis punch will give a much clean hole then the hole saws that utilize a drill.
+1 Especially if you can't find a hole saw for sheet metal
In either case take time to deburr (s?) the edges or you might be sorry later. Not a bunch just enough to make sure they don't cut you or parts.
I have never used an electrician's chassis punch but it sounds like a great idea (probably a bit more cost though if it cannot be borrowed).
I have made good holes and bad holes with a saw in sheet metal over the years. I agree the quality of the tool is important. LOW AGGRESSION helps, scribing the sheet metal slowly and carefully. In this instance, you can cut it slightly on the front' and then cut from the back side.
Practice and previous experience is a great teacher for learning how to cut a nice hole with minimum burring.
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The punch tool is awesome, have used them a lot, but not in this situation. The most readily available ones are sized for conduits, so not in 1/16 or even 1/8” increments. There are a lot of various shapes and sizes made for different devices (push buttons, indicating lamps, etc) that are mounted on a panel. As Richard said these are much more costly than hole saws. I pick them up when I find them cheap, just one of those habits hard to kick.
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FYI, a good Sulphur based cutting oil will make the cut easier and less likely to "dance" around if you go holesaw, slow and easy.
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I dont regret asking this question one bit. Thanks guys. New tools on the shopping list
Something like this might do the trick if you are lucky enough that it’s a standard size. An electrical material wholesaler or a-z rental might have them available to rent.
https://www.greenleestore.com/products/greenlee-7235bb-1-2-1-1-4-conduit-size-manual-slug-buster-knockout-punch-kit?variant=15440884163&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzKPd396z4AIVy7jACh3jlAlcEAQYAyABEgK0HvD_BwE