ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1968 Mustang => Topic started by: ruppstang on February 14, 2019, 09:14:19 PM
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I am working on detailing my 68 9 inch differential. The appears to be some writing but I can not make it out. Has any one seen this or can read it?
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I am working on detailing my 68 9 inch differential. The appears to be some writing but I can not make it out. Has any one seen this or can read it?
Guess your referring to the markings on the bottom of the third member - in your example in green.
Yes seen it many times and have a fair number of pictures of it. So far it appears to have started (at least from the examples I have) during approx mid year 67 production and is one of two different styles I've seen applied in that location which might suggest a workers in-house preference (at the Sterling plant) rather than a standard practice by all.
Looking at yours and other 68 examples the three center markings in my opinion are V4H Not sure if those are vertical lines to the left and the right but the others I have like yours have the same colors and marks at the ends and they don't seem to be legible. Maybe they were not suppose to be but for another purpose or habit
Looks like some of your other markings are a result of other (not visible) marks but pretty typical of what I've seen and collected for decades. The lavender on the pinion retainer I've not seen often
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Here it is restored.
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Your not going to want to drive it once it is done it looks so nice ;) .
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Nice work!
Couple items for discussion...
-Filler plug in housing, natural or painted? I thought natural.
-Brake shoe adjusters, zinc plated or phosphate/natural? I have found natural/phosphate on earlier cars.
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I'll take the spare you have in the upper left of pic 1.
But, very nice job. And done very quickly too (if I have the dates right).
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=19865.0;attach=54307;image)
You put the 9" on the top lip of a 5 gallon bucket and it sits in oil pan.
Do you have slits or holes cut into the bucket so it drains into the oil pan?
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I'll take the spare you have in the upper left of pic 1.
But, very nice job. And done very quickly too (if I have the dates right).
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=19865.0;attach=54307;image)
You put the 9" on the top lip of a 5 gallon bucket and it sits in oil pan.
Do you have slits or holes cut into the bucket so it drains into the oil pan?
No hole in the bucket, I just added the oil pan to help contain the mess.
A word if warning coming from experience. The third member just barely sits on the rim of a five gallon bucket. It can fall in to the bucket causing a 30 minute wrestling match to get it out! I recommend a 2.5 gallon bucket.
The other nine inch rear axel is for the 68 S code I am doing. I am using more powder coating rather than natural un finished surfaces so I can drive this one with less mataintaince. I am using SS lines on this one. It will fool most eyes but not those here.
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Terri lets you bring your parts (like the rear end assy) into the house? I see it all cozy by the fire!
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Terri lets you bring your parts (like the rear end assy) into the house? I see it all cozy by the fire!
That is the show room in my office.
She is very cool about the things I bring home to clean and polish. I dyed some seat belts in one of her pots and turned it and the spoon black. She said no more car parts in the kitchen.
I had a customer who came to the show room in the middle of a restoration and seeing all of the parts she said are you sure that this is not a car restoration business with a home building hobby!
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Ruppstang,
I have seen quite a bit of variance in peoples techniques/methods and paint choices for the paint details and markings on 3rd members (both on this site and good ol Google). How did you go about replicating these markings and paint blotches? Also, what brand/type of paint did you decide to go with? The end result you have looks stellar!
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Ruppstang,
I have seen quite a bit of variance in peoples techniques/methods and paint choices for the paint details and markings on 3rd members (both on this site and good ol Google). How did you go about replicating these markings and paint blotches? Also, what brand/type of paint did you decide to go with? The end result you have looks stellar!
Thanks for the kind words.
I take a lot of pictures when it is wet, it gives better definition and color. I am old school so I print the pictures out. Not necessary if you have a tablet. Look for landmarks when placing the paint dabs. The factory run was challenging.
I have a number of Testors model paint colors. I put drops of different colors on a pad and custom mix to get the color I want. If you mess up making a mark paint thinner takes it right off.
Have fun!
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Did you powder coat the drums and then have them cut on a brake lathe?
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I did have the ones on the S code powder coated then surfaced. I thought they turned out nice. The GT350 ones I am not sure how I will finish them. They are blasted for now
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Is the pink on the axle ends typical of 31 spline Assembly's ?
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Nice work!
Couple items for discussion...
-Filler plug in housing, natural or painted? I thought natural.
-Brake shoe adjusters, zinc plated or phosphate/natural? I have found natural/phosphate on earlier cars.
Relevant points that I agree with.
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What about the shoe spring retainer nails, bright zinc or zinc dichromate?
I'll fix the plug when I put oil in it.
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What about the shoe spring retainer nails, bright zinc or zinc dichromate?
I'll fix the plug when I put oil in it.
It was most likely filled in a different position then that of installed in the normal car position given the drip run of the yellow typically seen. After filling you will have to mimic that same position so that the yellow run will match.
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What about the shoe spring retainer nails, bright zinc or zinc dichromate?
The brake shoe pins were typically zinc w/dichromate (gold). The spring cups were also gold, but the ones I've seen were a dull gold.
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Thank you guys for the help!
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I'll fix the plug when I put oil in it.
The sealant on the plug is an interesting detail in your prediassembly pictures. Wonder if Sterling did a quick full with a predetermined amount of rearend fluid before the last axle was installed. Done it a few times that way in cars.
Just a though thay would match what we're seeing on this particular rearend and year ;)