ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1964 1/2 - 1965 => Topic started by: michaelvonlanthen on August 20, 2019, 01:29:03 PM
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Hi,
after a not so good summer for driving my car, I found time to clean it and take some photos. I would like to hear your advice to get closer to concours. I have original radiator, it does not work very well, thats why it was replaced by an aftermarket. My car is not a trailer queen anymore, it is driven on sunny weekends around Switzerland.
Thank you for your input and advice.
Michael
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more pics
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Looks Nice!! I think we will need more info on the car. I see you are from Switzerland, is the car a T5 export model? To me the valve covers don't look right, nor do the decals on the air cleaner, but then again it might be different on your car depending on history.
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It was not an export car, delivered to Phoenix AZ among the door tag. 289 4V D-Code engine, built early July 1964 in Dearborn.
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Some easy ones:
-Master cylinder cap should be black
-Radiator cap should be zinc with brass center rivet
-Thermostat to water pump by-pass hose and clamps should be painted black
-Fuel hose to pump should have crimp clamps
-Incorrect A/C line hose bracket at shock tower
There are other condition items, but if you're driving, hard to keep looking like new. I'm sure others will have additional feedback
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thank you Charles for the "easy ones" :)
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In pic two ...
You need to inspect your A/C mounting and see why the A/C compressor sits so far forward or lower pulley sheave 3 sits so far back.
You can can make out how the belt diverges from lower pulley to near water pump where it gains a lot of distance.
Surprised it hasn't jumped.
Also, are you looking for the Unicorn generator shield?
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Also, are you looking for the Unicorn generator shield?
64.5 Hi-po and A/C equipped cars would typically not have a generator shield.
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Some additional points.
- Some of the surfaces and finishes are showing age and use. Front of engine, steering column, surfaces around inner fender panel and fender bolts are a few that jump out
- Voltage regulator markings
- Blue Felpro fuel pump gasket
- Too many air cleaner decals and missing the Cubic inches one
- Drivers side spark plug wire routing/order at valve cover
- Battery inspection sticker fill out info
- Radiator appears to be a replacement
- Replaced drivers side fender (66 or later style version)
- Visible white sealer at fuel pump fittings
- Thermostat housing to intake sealant and painted surfaces
This should allow you some choices of where you want to start and focus
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Jeff,
I thought D codes do not use the CID stickers?
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Jeff,
I thought D codes do not use the CID stickers?
Plenty of restored ones with them - though that does not matter. Thanks for reminding me and I've correct my post above
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As for the wire routing. I can see he has the wires separated. May be right or wrong, but I can't trace them in the picture from the distributor. The order on the valve cover retainer should be 7,5,6,8.
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Heater hose routing looks different from what I am used to. Should the one going to the intake be draped over the valve cover like that? Also the hardware that is holding the fan shroud appears to be the wrong finish. Also missing the plastic clip that holds the neutral safety wires to the cowl...Also there is no dog leg on the AC compressor, is that normal for 64.5 or was that introduced in 65?
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Also, are you looking for the Unicorn generator shield?
If he's not, I am. Along with how the rubber-like thingy attaches to it. I've got the rubber boot on the rear of it, that was easy.
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If he's not, I am. Along with how the rubber-like thingy attaches to it. I've got the rubber boot on the rear of it, that was easy.
If your referring to the metal and rubber shield the two are attached with heavy staples
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Interesting that the more standard D code does get the shield but A/C and HiPo does not.
Does anyone know the reason behind that?
I wrestled with a 64.5 D code with shield the other day trying to get to the number 1 plug.
Finally just removed a few bolts, put a towel down and rested the generator on the towel.
Found: The number one plug. And possibly the reason they were thrown out.
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I thought the master cylinder cap could be black or natural copper according to MCA rules? Good job having the correct cap, most do not.
For the generator stamp, for dual groove a/c pulley generators, it should read C4OF-10000-B, picture attached.
I can’t tell from the picture if the idler pulley and mount are correct. It should be the unique generator mounted bracket and pulley for a/c cars, see attached pic.
The oil dip stick on the timing chain cover looks to be the incorrect type/finish.
I don’t see the rubber strap supporting the water heater hoses off the brace on the passenger side engine bay.
Overall, you have a nicely set up engine.
Chris
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If he's not, I am. Along with how the rubber-like thingy attaches to it. I've got the rubber boot on the rear of it, that was easy.
There is a restored one on ebay now for sale, cheap too, $124. Item number 163683190920.
For these things, you have to search under Fairlane and Falcon to get hard to find generaor related parts. This part typically goes for $300-$400 if complete and restored.
Found a second one too, unrestored for $189, item number 192780514233.
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Did notice (in the pictures Chris posted) that you made another non-factory choice. Not returning the sealant to the firewall in all the expected and typical locations. Way too noticeable that is missing it.
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Jeff, if you meant that for my engine bay pictures, I’ve not applied any sealant yet as I will be repainting the engine bay at some point. When I last did it about 10 years ago, the primer did not take well, probably due to residual oil residue. Same reason why I’ve not applied any stamps or decals yet.
At least I think it was a primer issue. The engine bay paint came off on the backside of my NOS 64 1/2 washer bag (ugh). Not sure if this was a paint adhesion issue. I had used the black Krylon engine bay spray paint from NPD. Pics attached.
Chris
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I don’t see the rubber strap supporting the water heater hoses off the brace on the passenger side engine bay.
That was normally only for K codes and 6 cylinders.
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Regarding this pic:
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=20869.0;attach=58650;image)
On the later inks the surround is a rectangle. Here they are an "L".
When did that change occur?
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Thanks for the correction on the water heater hose hangers Charles. Thought this was called out in one of the 64-65 assembly manuals, I’ll double check.
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On the later inks the surround is a rectangle. Here they are an "L".
When did that change occur?
Believe changed when they went to alternators though in the rebuild and service replacement a similar (just corners) continued for a fair amount of time - with out dates on many of the examples
Thanks for the correction on the water heater hose hangers Charles. Thought this was called out in one of the 64-65 assembly manuals, I’ll double check.
If so you might want to start a separate discussion rather than take over this one ;)
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There is a restored one on ebay now for sale, cheap too, $124. Item number 163683190920.
For these things, you have to search under Fairlane and Falcon to get hard to find generaor related parts. This part typically goes for $300-$400 if complete and restored.
Found a second one too, unrestored for $189, item number 192780514233.
Just got one from someone on another site selling a bunch of early parts. Must be that 'things come in 3s' thing going on.
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update 2020:
- rebuild radiator 2 row (functions better than previous repro 3 row)
- new sticker on air cleaner lid
- new voltage regulator with correct imprints and colors
- NOS starter solenoid brown
next steps:
- install rebuild NOS water pump C4OE-8505-A with HIPO impeller from deadnutson
- install original 13/16" sway bar
- install origininal rebuild 16:1 fast steering box
Hope those updates will improve driving around Swiss Alps next year :)
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update 2020:
- rebuild radiator 2 row (functions better than previous repro 3 row)
- new sticker on air cleaner lid
- new voltage regulator with correct imprints and colors
- NOS starter solenoid brown
next steps:
- install rebuild NOS water pump C4OE-8505-A with HIPO impeller from deadnutson
- install original 13/16" sway bar
- install origininal rebuild 16:1 fast steering box
Hope those updates will improve driving around Swiss Alps next year :)
As long as your Idler arm (typically the weakest link) ,inner and outer tie rods are tight . The rebuilt steering box should make a noticeable improvement.The steering box is often overlooked but after 50 plus years they all need to be opened up and refreshed.