ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Suspension => Topic started by: John Quinn on December 02, 2010, 11:42:36 PM
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I am interested in learning about the process of restoring the natural steel finish on control arms, 68s in particular. The natural steel finish is said to involve tumbling, along with other prep and final finishing processes. There are a lot of choices when it comes to Tumbler media, green, brown, rust cutting, plastic pyramids and so on. Does anyone have a restoration process recipe for restoring the natural finish they could share?
John
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I use a large tumbler with angle cut ceramic media. Does a wonderful job at getting the proper finish of the metal. Of course, this assumes the control arms aren't heavily rust-pitted.
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Allot depends on how bad they are to start. If you can its best just to remove the grease and old paint then brighten up the formed edges and oil them from there (painting the details if needed for the year you are working on
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Here are my upper control arms. These were super nice rust free examples I got from Marcus Angel. These were restored and installed by Pete Morgan and tumbled in media that Charles referred to.
Added photos of how they looked before. Ken Bramblett in Indiana did the rivets.
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It probably would have been useful if we had before and after pictures....I dont have them handy now to post what these arms looked like before. But having a clean part to start with is always going to make a difference in the end. I just finished a set of original tie rods and the before and after difference is amazing. Any type of pitting will be difficult, but not impossible, to clean up depending on how bad it is. Depends how much time and money you want to invest in pieces.
And I agree, an industrial tumbler is key to restoring suspension pieces. I use a 3 cu ft tumbler with angle cut grey ceramic media as well.
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Marcus, Just added the before photos.
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Sunlit I was hoping to find out how you found the original color for the daub on your front shock? Did you have a build sheet?
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TLea told me... evidently this is a commonly known fact among the MCA judges.
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Richard,
I happen to have a few copies of 67 & 68 build sheets from no- to low-option 289 Mustangs. In all cases the shock code color is red (front & rear) and the rear spring mark is silver. Since John's car is a low-option 68 and he has yet to share his build sheet with me ;) , I went with my experience on the color.
Regards,
Pete Morgan
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my front shock code is the letter "E"
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Richard,
I happen to have a few copies of 67 & 68 build sheets from no- to low-option 289 Mustangs. In all cases the shock code color is red (front & rear) and the rear spring mark is silver.................
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Also have a number of low optioned 67's with 2 silver or silver and red (depending on engine, trans and body type) as well as the single silver. All with the basic red shocks
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Jeff are you refering to front spring striping or rear spring/ Sounds like front but just wondering.
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I'm surprised no one has mentioned Rare Parts in Stockton CA.
I have had them do several sets of control arms for me. They media blast them and then tumble, clear coat them and even dip the lowers. I send original spring perches and idler arms too. I think they do a great job.
Here is a set I had done a few weeks ago.
I am doing a 67 SJ convert "S" code auto and I found 2 large white stripes on the rear springs.
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I'm surprised no one has mentioned Rare Parts in Stockton CA.
I have had them do several sets of control arms for me. They media blast them and then tumble, clear coat them and even dip the lowers. I send original spring perches and idler arms too. I think they do a great job.
Some of their products are really nice IMHO while others they are still working on. And make sure you are clear as to how you want things finished - don't want clear powder coating if your going to show the car in concours somewhere ;)
I am doing a 67 SJ convert "S" code auto and I found 2 large white stripes on the rear springs.
Getting slightly off subject - what numbers are on those springs - if you would. Thanks
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Like I said, I have been happy with the control arms they have done for me. Let them know what your intention is for the parts and they can tumble and dip them, that is what they do for me. I have seen the powder coat that they do and it looks ok at best, but you can definitely tell it is not bare metal. I like that they have clear coated them after tumbling because I hate to see the metal left unprotected even if the car will never be driven.
As for the rear springs the numbers are as follows:
C7ZA
5556-AA
Gl-6F
And for conversation sake if anyone wants to know the front spring strip colors were as follows with the spring upside down from left to right:
white purple gold
And spaced about like that.
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Like I said, I have been happy with the control arms they have done for me. Let them know what your intention is for the parts and they can tumble and dip them, that is what they do for me.
Yes good bunch of guys - they are about 8 mins from me and I've trying to help get some of their reproduction stuff in line with our expectations. Other than a couple of stampings their 67-69 (small suspension) tie rods look really good IMHO
Thanks for the spring numbers - will help the marks line up with some additional facts
And for conversation sake if anyone wants to know the front spring strip colors were as follows with the spring upside down from left to right:
white purple gold
And spaced about like that.
IN a case like this the white color would not have been part of the color markings to identify the springs to an application but instead (from my understanding) there were for certain springs that checked out at the bottom or top of the spring rate range - over or under marks if you will. So not all (or not most) of cars like yours would have had any more than the purple gold stripes
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If this topic is not dead,
what should the color daub be on shocks (front and rear) for an "S" code convert SJ car PS no AC?
Black shocks what color daubs????
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If this topic is not dead,
what should the color daub be on shocks (front and rear) for an "S" code convert SJ car PS no AC?
Black shocks what color daubs????
Dan we have strayed a fair amount from the original question, which will make it hard for people looking for shock daubs to find. Why don't you start a new topic in what ever year it directly relates to. BTW is the car a 67, 68 or 69?
GT or non-GT?
Thanks
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Thanks for the great photos I'm working on my first restoration and this is really helpful. What did rare parts charge for this service.
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Thanks for the great photos I'm working on my first restoration and this is really helpful. What did rare parts charge for this service.
Not sure what the current cost is - will check.
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I use a large tumbler with angle cut ceramic media. Does a wonderful job at getting the proper finish of the metal. Of course, this assumes the control arms aren't heavily rust-pitted.
There you go bragging about your big tumbler again ;D . All Kidding aside I have a small 1x2 foot box with metal shot that i use and it makes unpitted metal look as fresh as the day it was formed. I just havn't found a used large tumbler for control arms and strut rods. A 30 inch hopper is what i am told will do the trick.Bob