ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1968 Mustang => Topic started by: bullitt68 on December 28, 2019, 03:32:46 AM
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I just picked up these rear shackles and I am wondering If these would be good to use. Did the originals have any markings or part numbers stamped on them for identification. These look similar to original in shape and might be alright if I can get the finish right. Should they be Manganese phosphate or black paint. For some reason I though that the bolts were separate, but these have the blots pressed in to the shackles and of course are zinc plated (no bueno)
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Did you review these threads? There's some good information in there:
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=17038.msg106864#msg106864
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=19104.msg120524#msg120524
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Did you review these threads? There's some good information in there:
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=17038.msg106864#msg106864
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=19104.msg120524#msg120524
Thanks John both great threads. I am not sure when my shackles came from but I will see if I can fins out. Its is interesting that they are clear zinc and both appear to be staggered. Based on the other threads it looks like my car should not have the staggered LH shackle. My car came with the typical gold cad shackles, sway bars, chrome Monte Carlo bar, traction bars etc. The shackles on my car are almost twice as thick as the factory style. I will measure the ones I have and see what the thickness is. I guess in a pinch I could swap the bolts around to make a matched set and phosphate them, they would however be missing the part number. How easy is it to come by a set of good used shackles
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This is one of the items I would buy if I ever see ones (that are not pitted) at swap meets, etc. They are not common at all in my neck of the woods, far from the west coast. I don't see them eBay either. You'll probably need someone that was wise enough to collect them to be willing to part with a set.
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This is one of the items I would buy if I ever see ones (that are not pitted) at swap meets, etc. They are not common at all in my neck of the woods, far from the west coast. I don't see them eBay either. You'll probably need someone that was wise enough to collect them to be willing to part with a set.
Of course. It seems that all of the parts I am looking for are fairly hard to come by. Not sure how so many guys seems to have so many original parts. It seems like my car had all of the major components replaced at some point with various grades of service replacement parts
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A lot of these tend to be bare metal from the factory which leads in most cases to rust and pitting. Many also have joints or bushings that wear out. Some of the Ford aftermarket (upper control arms) were functional but quite different. Put all of this together and, as they say, it is what it is. Patience and/or dollars are usually part of the solution.
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A lot of these tend to be bare metal from the factory which leads in most cases to rust and pitting. Many also have joints or bushings that wear out. Some of the Ford aftermarket (upper control arms) were functional but quite different. Put all of this together and, as they say, it is what it is. Patience and/or dollars are usually part of the solution.
Agreed. I have been picking up some used upper control arms for cheap and by the time I media blast in most cases they are too pitted to use. What is interesting is that most of the NOS upper control arms I have seen are the 3 rivet design I have in my car and mine are perfect. Same applies to original leaf springs. I just picked up another pair today but I need to media blast them and I suspect that they may be pitted as well, so I may just end ups putting together one good pair out of a few sets. Who knows I may run out of patience and money and just use some of the parts that I have that I already restored that look correct, but are just missing the all critical part numbers and right date codes. Up to this point I have ben trying my best to find suitable parts, but the process and time requires a major commitment indeed
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I just picked up these rear shackles and I am wondering If these would be good to use. Did the originals have any markings or part numbers stamped on them for identification. These look similar to original in shape and might be alright if I can get the finish right. Should they be Manganese phosphate or black paint. For some reason I though that the bolts were separate, but these have the blots pressed in to the shackles and of course are zinc plated (no bueno)
Those shackles are not correct for your car. 68 did not use the staggered shackle like 65,66,and 67 duel exhaust cars. The shackles were bare steel from the factory . Are the ones in the picture chrome plated?
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............ Should they be Manganese phosphate or black paint. For some reason I though that the bolts were separate, but these have the blots pressed in to the shackles and of course are zinc plated (no bueno)
Yes these appear to have been bright zinc plated. Might need to soak these for a long time to remove the coating rather than blasting them and adding texture but your choice. As shown in a couple of threads and in an article on natural finishes you may choose to darken the studs to reproduce the heat treated metal and this will provide a contrast (of the end of the stud) from the sides when compared to the natural look of the metal for the shackles
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Muratic acid sold in hardware stores will take that bright finish of in 10 seconds
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Yes these appear to have been bright zinc plated. Might need to soak these for a long time to remove the coating rather than blasting them and adding texture but your choice. As shown in a couple of threads and in an article on natural finishes you may choose to darken the studs to reproduce the heat treated metal and this will provide a contrast (of the end of the stud) from the sides when compared to the natural look of the metal for the shackles
Hi Jeff looks like I read this after I already media blasted the shackles and then vapour blasted them. I will move one of the bolt/studs over to the other position so that I have the non offset shackles and then will phosphate. Them. I guess that I could also stamp the part number in them or is that frowned upon. I will update the thread with the final product once I finish the project. Thanks for the help and advice as always
FYI these are Scott Drake shackles
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I will move one of the bolt/studs over to the other position so that I have the non offset shackles and then will phosphate.
I tried that and it was not possible due to the differences in the stud hole and mounting hole sizes. You will also wind up with an unusable flat plate.
Them. I guess that I could also stamp the part number in them or is that frowned upon.
The only part number I've found is on the flat plate, "C6DA".
Jim
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Hi Jeff looks like I read this after I already media blasted the shackles and then vapour blasted them. I will move one of the bolt/studs over to the other position so that I have the non offset shackles and then will phosphate. Them. I guess that I could also stamp the part number in them or is that frowned upon. I will update the thread with the final product once I finish the project. Thanks for the help and advice as always
FYI these are Scott Drake shackles
If you try to move the pins then the hole will be too big on the side that the pin was removed from . The hole needs to be smaller . You can always weld the hole up and redrill it but that will look funky. Starting out with another more correct set would probably be best..
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I tried that and it was not possible due to the differences in the stud hole and mounting hole sizes. You will also wind up with an unusable flat plate.The only part number I've found is on the flat plate, "C6DA".
Jim
Correct no engineering numbers on the shackles . I think that the C6DA was eliminated on the flat plate for 68/69 Mustang shackles.
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Correct no engineering numbers on the shackles . I think that the C6DA was eliminated on the flat plate for 68/69 Mustang shackles.
Flat plates for 68/69 Mustangs? Am I missing something?
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Flat plates for 68/69 Mustangs? Am I missing something?
Flat plate is referring to the part of the shackle that does not have any pins in it. It is used with the portion that has two pins in it.
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Flat plate is referring to the part of the shackle that does not have any pins in it. It is used with the portion that has two pins in it.
Not following you, not sure what you are describing
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Not following you, not sure what you are describing
Look at picture in reply #11.
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Look at picture in reply #11.
I just looked at it, but I don't know what I am looking for
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I just looked at it, but I don't know what I am looking for
If you see the item in the picture then you see the flat plate being discussed.
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If you see the item in the picture then you see the flat plate being discussed.
OK I think I get it now. I thought you referring to a different style plate, meaning not looking like the one I posted, that the style I posted is correct for my car, but should not be a staggered stud design.
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OK I think I get it now. I thought you referring to a different style plate, meaning not looking like the one I posted, that the style I posted is correct for my car, but should not be a staggered stud design.
Assemblyine for 68 was the same style just that nether side was staggered like what was used on left side of 65-67 duel exhaust Mustang.
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Assemblyine for 68 was the same style just that nether side was staggered like what was used on left side of 65-67 duel exhaust Mustang.
Thanks got it. I have not seen any originals for sale in my travels as of yet, so for now I guess I will stick with these unless I can find some correct ones in great shape that don't cost an arm and a leg. Basically the same story with many other parts I am finding with this build. Makes me wish I was building a Shelby for all of the effort that goes into building these cars. Perhaps that is what I will build next since I am much more knowledgable now than when I started this process a year ago
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Thanks got it. I have not seen any originals for sale in my travels as of yet, so for now I guess I will stick with these unless I can find some correct ones in great shape that don't cost an arm and a leg. Basically the same story with many other parts I am finding with this build. Makes me wish I was building a Shelby for all of the effort that goes into building these cars. Perhaps that is what I will build next since I am much more knowledgable now than when I started this process a year ago
I suppose you can always add them to your parts wanted list that you started in another thread. Sometimes you can find parts that are not valued by the seller for what ever reason .Other times the seller puts time in refinishing the part or is aware of a poor survival rate or rarity of a part and expects more for the given item. It depends on what you expectations for your build, what you value your time and many times luck in finding the right parts. In this instance knowledge of the correct part favors a better chance of finding it. It is of course all your choices.
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I suppose you can always add them to your parts wanted list that you started in another thread. Sometimes you can find parts that are not valued by the seller for what ever reason .Other times the seller puts time in refinishing the part or is aware of a poor survival rate or rarity of a part and expects more for the given item. It depends on what you expectations for your build, what you value your time and many times luck in finding the right parts. In this instance knowledge of the correct part favors a better chance of finding it. It is of course all your choices.
Thanks Bob. Speaking of parts. I just tried giving you a call. PM sent
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.................. Basically the same story with many other parts I am finding with this build. Makes me wish I was building a Shelby for all of the effort that goes into building these cars. Perhaps that is what I will build next since I am much more knowledgable now than when I started this process a year ago
Yes but understand that then it would be in a sea of other cars and not stand out as much as your car likely will. Sometimes it better to be different Just like the guy that builds the 6 cylinder stripped down coupe. That car is more likely (once people notice the lever of commitment and dedication) get more attention and more people will be talking about the car
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Yes but understand that then it would be in a sea of other cars and not stand out as much as your car likely will. Sometimes it better to be different Just like the guy that builds the 6 cylinder stripped down coupe. That car is more likely (once people notice the lever of commitment and dedication) get more attention and more people will be talking about the car
Thanks Jeff I never thought about it from that perspective. It does seem that the Shelby's get all the love.
FYI I stripped the shackles and the phosphated them today, but the shackles were not responding to the phosphate what so ever at all. So looks like it is back to the drawing board. I noticed that Scott Drake has some for sale in different configurations. I think I will try a different process on these to see if I can get them to a dark natural finish. The thing I find about getting the correct finish on part takes a different approach for different types of metal. Definitely not one size fits all. A lot of trial and error and patience for us novices!
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FYI I stripped the shackles and the phosphated them today, but the shackles were not responding to the phosphate what so ever at all.
Quit complaining. The quality of that zinc plating penetrated well.
There are a couple of ways to get rid of the plating. Go to plating shop and have them do it. They will either give them and acid bath or reverse the plating process voltages. That can be expensive. The other option is to dip them in swimming pool acid, RINSE WELL and see. The dip timing is experimental. Or bead blast. The blasting method has worked for parts that had been zinc plated a while back.
Jim
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Thanks Jeff I never thought about it from that perspective. It does seem that the Shelby's get all the love.
FYI I stripped the shackles and the phosphated them today, but the shackles were not responding to the phosphate what so ever at all. So looks like it is back to the drawing board. I noticed that Scott Drake has some for sale in different configurations. I think I will try a different process on these to see if I can get them to a dark natural finish. The thing I find about getting the correct finish on part takes a different approach for different types of metal. Definitely not one size fits all. A lot of trial and error and patience for us novices!
Since you are concerned about assemblyline originality it doesn't make sense to commit time and resources on the ones you picture given they are not correct for your application anyway IMO. If you cant source originals you might want to check out repro offerings of the correct style.The repros are not much of a investment.
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Since you are concerned about assemblyline originality it doesn't make sense to commit time and resources on the ones you picture given they are not correct for your application anyway IMO. If you cant source originals you might want to check out repro offerings of the correct style.The repros are not much of a investment.
Good point. Agreed. So far I have not seen any suitable candidates
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Good point. Agreed. So far I have not seen any suitable candidates
Check out National Parts Depots on line catalog for various offerings. Here is one I pulled up . https://www.npdlink.com/product/shackle-kit-leaf-spring-rear-oe-rubber-bushings/104758?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dspring%252Bshackle%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1968&year=1968 . You may have to modify the finish . As has been mention a dunk in some muratic acid until it stops fizzing (about 4-5 minutes and the zinc finish should be gone) wash acid off in water ,towel dry (not blow dry otherwise it may flash rust)and then finish with tumbling or zinc phosphate (should be light to match bare steel more) or what ever you decide for a final finish.
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Check out National Parts Depots on line catalog for various offerings. Here is one I pulled up . https://www.npdlink.com/product/shackle-kit-leaf-spring-rear-oe-rubber-bushings/104758?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dspring%252Bshackle%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1968&year=1968 . You may have to modify the finish . As has been mention a dunk in some muratic acid until it stops fizzing (about 4-5 minutes and the zinc finish should be gone) wash acid off in water ,towel dry (not blow dry otherwise it may flash rust)and then finish with tumbling or zinc phosphate (should be light to match bare steel more) or what ever you decide for a final finish.
Thanks Bob I have not used NPD before, but may if they have some suitable parts. Checking out the website now. And the price is definitely right!
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Check out National Parts Depots on line catalog for various offerings. Here is one I pulled up . https://www.npdlink.com/product/shackle-kit-leaf-spring-rear-oe-rubber-bushings/104758?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dspring%252Bshackle%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1968&year=1968 . You may have to modify the finish . As has been mention a dunk in some muratic acid until it stops fizzing (about 4-5 minutes and the zinc finish should be gone) wash acid off in water ,towel dry (not blow dry otherwise it may flash rust)and then finish with tumbling or zinc phosphate (should be light to match bare steel more) or what ever you decide for a final finish.
Hi Bob here is the one you posted the link to. The next photo shows what mine looks like after the phosphating that did not take. I may try it in the tumbler next and see what it looks like. So far I have mainly used the tumbler on aluminum, but will try it on the shackles. I will experiment on these and get it right for the correct ones
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Here is the link to NPD shackle with 1/2" studs which would be correct for your car.
https://www.npdlink.com/product/shackle-kit-leaf-spring-rear-oe-style-rubber/104764?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dspring%252Bshackle%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1968&year=1968
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Hi Bob here is the one you posted the link to. The next photo shows what mine looks like after the phosphating that did not take. I may try it in the tumbler next and see what it looks like. So far I have mainly used the tumbler on aluminum, but will try it on the shackles. I will experiment on these and get it right for the correct ones
The shade of metal on the plates looks fine . The studs and nuts not so much. At least from the picture on my monitor.The studs and nuts were typically a darker contrast shade of metal compared to the plates originally. That is the goal . However you get to that goal is the challenge.
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Here is the link to NPD shackle with 1/2" studs which would be correct for your car.
https://www.npdlink.com/product/shackle-kit-leaf-spring-rear-oe-style-rubber/104764?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dspring%252Bshackle%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1968&year=1968
Thanks appreciate it
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The shade of metal on the plates looks fine . The studs and nuts not so much. At least from the picture on my monitor.The studs and nuts were typically a darker contrast shade of metal compared to the plates originally. That is the goal . However you get to that goal is the challenge.
Thanks Bob I will experiment a bit more in the lab today and see what I come up with
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hanks Bob I will experiment a bit more in the lab today and see what I come up with
You can test processes out on the ones you have so you know what to do when you get a more appropriate set. I would not try and use the ones you have now given the direction you are going for. So to be clear they are not correct for your car.
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You can test processes out on the ones you have so you know what to do when you get a more appropriate set. I would not try and use the ones you have now given the direction you are going for. So to be clear they are not correct for your car.
Thanks Bob. Got it and that is my plan!
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Check out National Parts Depots on line catalog for various offerings. Here is one I pulled up . https://www.npdlink.com/product/shackle-kit-leaf-spring-rear-oe-rubber-bushings/104758?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dspring%252Bshackle%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1968&year=1968 . You may have to modify the finish . As has been mention a dunk in some muratic acid until it stops fizzing (about 4-5 minutes and the zinc finish should be gone) wash acid off in water ,towel dry (not blow dry otherwise it may flash rust)and then finish with tumbling or zinc phosphate (should be light to match bare steel more) or what ever you decide for a final finish.
Hi Bob I ordered some shackles from NPD. I have never used them before, but they have a lot of parts on their website. I ordered a catalogue. Not sure which parts they have that would be useful to me, but they sure have a lot of inventory and some lot the stuff look pretty good. Thanks for the referal
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NPD is one of two class acts for Mustang parts; the other is Virginia Classic Mustangs. While most of what each carries is not concours correct, their customer service and parts availability is exceptional. Each tries to carry the best parts available, regardless of price (for the most part).
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NPD is one of two class acts for Mustang parts; the other is Virginia Classic Mustangs. While most of what each carries is not concours correct, their customer service and parts availability is exceptional. Each tries to carry the best parts available, regardless of price (for the most part).
Thanks I like the selection of parts that have. I have been checking out Virginia Mustangs as well. Also had some luck with West Coast Cougars who also stock some Mustang parts. Who is the best supplier for wiring harnesses. I haven't gone through mine yet, but I may need some wiring.
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same 2 vendors. both sell alloy metal products. best out there.
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same 2 vendors. both sell alloy metal products. best out there.
Great thanks. I may be switching gears and foregoing restoring original parts and trying to find some suitable replacement ie: Tie-rods, leaf springs, rotors if I can find really nice originals
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Thanks I like the selection of parts that have. I have been checking out Virginia Mustangs as well. Also had some luck with West Coast Cougars who also stock some Mustang parts. Who is the best supplier for wiring harnesses. I haven't gone through mine yet, but I may need some wiring.
If your wiring isn't in too bad a shape and is well hidden, I refurbish wiring harnesses at costs well below reproduction costs, particularly the underdash harness. For wiring that can be seen, my work does not stand up to concours judging, as it focuses upon functionality and reliability using proper wire gauges and colors vice concours aesthetics.
And yes, WCC is an excellent source for many used parts common to both Mustangs and Cougars. Their service is also outstanding, as well as their videos (and quite entertaining!).
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If your wiring isn't in too bad a shape and is well hidden, I refurbish wiring harnesses at costs well below reproduction costs, particularly the underdash harness. For wiring that can be seen, my work does not stand up to concours judging, as it focuses upon functionality and reliability using proper wire gauges and colors vice concours aesthetics.
And yes, WCC is an excellent source for many used parts common to both Mustangs and Cougars. Their service is also outstanding, as well as their videos (and quite entertaining!).
That is great info. I was thinking of getting a new engine bay wiring harness just so it looks nice. I will have to inspect my other harnesses. The reproduction replacement are very expensive. Mine was pretty good from what I recall for the under dash, but the radio harness was butchered. Either way all of the wiring will need a clean up etc.
I saw a great WCC video recently with Jeff Speegle in it. They have a great video where they decode a Cougar and break down all the parts and how to identify them. One of the best videos I have seen on the subject.