ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Processes, Products & Techniques => Topic started by: bullitt68 on December 28, 2019, 04:32:50 AM
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Has anyone used this product SLIP Dry Graphite Spray Coating with any success. I was thinking of trying on my leaf springs as I don't have a big enough contained to phosphate my leaf springs and I am trying to duplicate the factory look. Here are a few photos. Second photo shows the black paint that was on my replacement leaf springs on one leaf and after media blasting. Third photo shows the comparison between the black paint and the application of the graphite. I was hoping for a darker look like manganese phosphate. Would love any feedback/advice to get a nice factory looking finish.
Thanks
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I've used a similar graphite spray by McKay, but on exhaust manifolds. It lasted just a couple of years before the manifolds started to rust, I assume due to exhaust heat burning off the graphite. I did spray the steel top of my Craftsman table saw with it to combat flash rust (the saw is in a shed but the nighttime humidity gets up to 95% even in California's clear skys). There it works. The McKay's spray was recommended by a couple of MCA Gold Card Judges many years back for manifold use. I don't know of any other uses on cars simply because it was way too dark, but it might "replicate" heat treated steel.
Jim
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I've used a similar graphite spray by McKay, but on exhaust manifolds. It lasted just a couple of years before the manifolds started to rust, I assume due to exhaust heat burning off the graphite. I did spray the steel top of my Craftsman table saw with it to combat flash rust (the saw is in a shed but the nighttime humidity gets up to 95% even in California's clear skys). There it works. The McKay's spray was recommended by a couple of MCA Gold Card Judges many years back for manifold use. I don't know of any other uses on cars simply because it was way too dark, but it might "replicate" heat treated steel.
Jim
Thanks Jim. I am just doing some experimenting with it now as it is my first time trying the product. I would prefer to phosphate the leafs as other new springs I have bought for some other cars came a very dark color which appeared to be phosphate, but I have not been able to locate any Mustang leaf springs that do not come unpainted, only painted. I don't see any point in ordering new springs just to have to take them all apart to stripe them and re finish them, so I am most likely going to strip the ones that came on my car and either phosphate (If I can figure out a way to do it) or use a paint type spray or product that will properly replicate the look of the factory heat treated leaf springs. Perhaps a very light misting of the rattle can dash paint might do the trick. I have not tried it yet. What are most concours guys doing to treat their leaf springs
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Thanks Jim. I am just doing some experimenting with it now as it is my first time trying the product. I would prefer to phosphate the leafs as other new springs I have bought for some other cars came a very dark color which appeared to be phosphate, but I have not been able to locate any Mustang leaf springs that do not come unpainted, only painted. I don't see any point in ordering new springs just to have to take them all apart to stripe them and re finish them, so I am most likely going to strip the ones that came on my car and either phosphate (If I can figure out a way to do it) or use a paint type spray or product that will properly replicate the look of the factory heat treated leaf springs. Perhaps a very light misting of the rattle can dash paint might do the trick. I have not tried it yet. What are most concours guys doing to treat their leaf springs
Eastwood sells a zinc phosphate spray can product. It is too dark for most things on the cars IMO except it approximates the dark heat treated steel appearance that the leaf springs look like when fresh. It is the closest thing in a already mixed up formula for the leaf springs I have found if you are going that route.
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Eastwood sells a zinc phosphate spray can product. It is too dark for most things on the cars IMO except it approximates the dark heat treated steel appearance that the leaf springs look like when fresh. It is the closest thing in a already mixed up formula for the leaf springs I have found if you are going that route.
As mentioned in a couple of threads when I do use paint I over coat the phosphate with interior dark charcoal metallic since it has allot of clear and adds a slight metallic from certain angles - just apply it dry so there is no gloss
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Eastwood sells a zinc phosphate spray can product. It is too dark for most things on the cars IMO except it approximates the dark heat treated steel appearance that the leaf springs look like when fresh. It is the closest thing in a already mixed up formula for the leaf springs I have found if you are going that route.
Hi Bob are you referring to this stuff? I had a can kicking around that I never used before. What is interesting is that it is called zinc phosphate but it much closer to manganese than zinc. Zinc would generally be much lighter like the middle leaf in the canter of the photo below.
FYI I tried some today on some very rough leaf springs I found.
The leaf spring on the left has a light coat of the zinc phosphate on the top half. The leaf in the middle is the graphite dry coating, and the spring on the right is the aftermarket leafs, not sure how old they are, but they were painted black at some point. No info on what springs they actually are.
Not sure why my photos are being turned sideways on the website
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Hi Bob are you referring to this stuff? I had a can kicking around that I never used before. What is interesting is that it is called zinc phosphate but it much closer to manganese than zinc. Zinc would generally be much lighter like the middle leaf in the canter of the photo below.
FYI I tried some today on some very rough leaf springs I found.
The leaf spring on the left has a light coat of the zinc phosphate on the top half. The leaf in the middle is the graphite dry coating, and the spring on the right is the aftermarket leafs, not sure how old they are, but they were painted black at some point. No info on what springs they actually are.
Not sure why my photos are being turned sideways on the website
Yes that is the ready to use spray can you can use if you are going the painted route. I agree it is typically too dark for most items as they would appear from Ford. Unpainted NOS original leafs are similarly dark. The shape of the leaf on the bottom as the picture appears posted is original and the other two appear to be after market.
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Yes that is the ready to use spray can you can use if you are going the painted route. I agree it is typically too dark for most items as they would appear from Ford. Unpainted NOS original leafs are similarly dark. The shape of the leaf on the bottom as the picture appears posted is original and the other two appear to be after market.
So I guess the question is how would the springs have actually looked when they rolled off the assembly line if the NOS are dark. Does that mean originals would have been a lighter color or different finish?
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So I guess the question is how would the springs have actually looked when they rolled off the assembly line if the NOS are dark. Does that mean originals would have been a lighter color or different finish?
No question in my mind. They were dark heat treated spring steel.
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No question in my mind. They were dark heat treated spring steel.
So NOS and assembly line would look the same?
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So NOS and assembly line would look the same?
Typically if not painted and or tinted from the cosmoline coating that many on the shelf parts came with when in Ford parts inventory then they should typically look dark like assemblyine given they came from the same MFG.
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Typically if not painted and or tinted from the cosmoline coating that many on the shelf parts came with when in Ford parts inventory then they should typically look dark like assemblyine given they came from the same MFG.
Got it think. So basically they should look like yours that you posted.
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Got it think. So basically they should look like yours that you posted.
I think you have me confused with someone else because I don't recall posting a picture of any recently.
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I think you have me confused with someone else because I don't recall posting a picture of any recently.
Yes sorry it was BossBill who posted photos of his leaf springs in another thread My leaf spring thread regarding correct factory assembly line finish
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So NOS and assembly line would look the same?
Service replacement rear springs were often painted black with a part number stenciled on the top surface. Have pictures but away from them at the moment Coil springs typically paint black also for service examples. While, as Bob described, heat treated items such as spindles, center links and so on were wax or oiled and look allot like assembly line items
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Service replacement rear springs were often painted black with a part number stenciled on the top surface. Have pictures but away from them at the moment Coil springs typically paint black also for service examples. While, as Bob described, heat treated items such as spindles, center links and so on were wax or oiled and look allot like assembly line items
Thanks Jeff. My leaf springs that came in my car were service replacement leafs as far as I can tell and they were painted black, but were most likely repainted during the last restoration and there was no sign of the stencil that I could find or part number stamp, but will be media blasting them tomorrow and will find out soon enough. So far I like the graphite coating and have been experimenting with some different procedures. I have a bunch of parts waiting in the cue, spindles & various steering parts that require a natural finish. I will post the results when I am done. The current procedure call for the following steps.
Dry Media Blasting
followed by Vapour Blasting
Heat Seasoning
Dry Graphite coating application
Boesheild Application when graphite has dried
0000 Steel wool wipe down for final step and finished look
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Not sure how long or how dark the final product will look using the graphite - most of us stopped using it back int he 90's but will be waiting to see how your efforts turn out as well as long term longevity
Right now I only use graphite between the exhaust manifolds and the heads as Ford did originally
Good luck - take pictures :)
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Not sure how long or how dark the final product will look using the graphite - most of us stopped using it back int he 90's but will be waiting to see how your efforts turn out as well as long term longevity
Right now I only use graphite between the exhaust manifolds and the heads as Ford did originally
Good luck - take pictures :)
Thanks Jeff will do