ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1968 Mustang => Topic started by: bullitt68 on February 10, 2020, 09:48:32 PM
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Just curious about a few things on my Clutch & Brake Pedal Assembly.
Photo 1: Looking to confirm the following
The clutch return spring has white paint on it, but is worn off and 50 years old. Just curious if anyone has a photo of how it should be painted
Photo 2&3: The column support bracket has a date code of March which is constant with my car. Is there a prefered vendor who makes these stamp with correct font, size & color
Photo 4: I am not sure what this label says on the main bracket or what was the purpose of it. Has anyone else found one on their car or reproached it by chance
Photo 5,6,7,8: I am not familiar with the correct parts number of the clutch & brake rubber pedal pads. Would these be the correct part numbers? They do appear to be original. Notice how little wear there is
Photo 9&10: I am assuming that all of this assembly is original and correct but would like to confirm so that I can restore it correctly. Thew brake pedal appears to have only partially painted, but the clutch pedal looks fully painted. Just curious of other observations and examples. just confirming how the date decodes. Year 8, Month B (Feb), Day 28
Thanks in advance
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Just curious about a few things on my Clutch & Brake Pedal Assembly.
Photo 1: Looking to confirm the following
The clutch return spring has white paint on it, but is worn off and 50 years old. Just curious if anyone has a photo of how it should be painted
Photo 2&3: The column support bracket has a date code of March which is constant with my car. Is there a prefered vendor who makes these stamp with correct font, size & color
Photo 4: I am not sure what this label says on the main bracket or what was the purpose of it. Has anyone else found one on their car or reproached it by chance
Photo 5,6,7,8: I am not familiar with the correct parts number of the clutch & brake rubber pedal pads. Would these be the correct part numbers? They do appear to be original. Notice how little wear there is
Photo 9&10: I am assuming that all of this assembly is original and correct but would like to confirm so that I can restore it correctly. Thew brake pedal appears to have only partially painted, but the clutch pedal looks fully painted. Just curious of other observations and examples. just confirming how the date decodes. Year 8, Month B (Feb), Day 28
Thanks in advance
The big block return spring was the one that was painted white in 67/68. The pedal arms are typically only partially painted. one that is completely painted is not typical.
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The big block return spring was the one that was painted white in 67/68. The pedal arms are typically only partially painted. one that is completely painted is not typical.
Great thanks Bob appreciate it
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The under dash support piece is usually bare steel with some inspector marks. I bet yours has been replaced including the pedal assemblies with service replacement parts. As Bob says the pedals are normally only lower half painted and the upper parts not at all.
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The under dash support piece is usually bare steel with some inspector marks. I bet yours has been replaced including the pedal assemblies with service replacement parts. As Bob says the pedals are normally only lower half painted and the upper parts not at all.
+2 on all comments, plus there is remnants of a Service Part decal.
FWI, hunt for a factory replacement bracket from an Auto Trans donor, same part with 99.999% of the time ZERO wear from clutch activity.
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The under dash support piece is usually bare steel with some inspector marks. I bet yours has been replaced including the pedal assemblies with service replacement parts. As Bob says the pedals are normally only lower half painted and the upper parts not at all.
Great thanks Royce. That is excellent information. I wonder why it was replaced. Seems like an odd assembly to replace. Did you see the part number on the brake pedal. I didn't notice the part number on the clutch pedal but I will check. What about the part numbers on the pedal pads
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+2 on all comments, plus there is remnants of a Service Part decal.
FWI, hunt for a factory replacement bracket from an Auto Trans donor, same part with 99.999% of the time ZERO wear from clutch activity.
Thanks. That is a great idea. I will add that to my list of parts I need
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I wonder why it was replaced. Seems like an odd assembly to replace. Did you see the part number on the brake pedal. I didn't notice the part number on the clutch pedal but I will check. What about the part numbers on the pedal pads
Pedal pad numbers are correct, and clutch and manual brake pad used through 1970 at least.
Disc pedal hanger was likely replaced because the clutch shaft bushing was all wallered out. A used pedal hanger from an automatic car will have mint bushings, you would ideally want a disc brake pedal hanger.
Looks like a date stamped on the brake pedal. Starting in 1969 the dates were stamped in the foot portion and is covered by the rubber pad and not seen.
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Pedal pad numbers are correct, and clutch and manual brake pad used through 1970 at least.
Disc pedal hanger was likely replaced because the clutch shaft bushing was all wallered out. A used pedal hanger from an automatic car will have mint bushings, you would ideally want a disc brake pedal hanger.
Looks like a date stamped on the brake pedal. Starting in 1969 the dates were stamped in the foot portion and is covered by the rubber pad and not seen.
Thanks Scott FYI the clutch shaft bushing has been modified at some point. I will get a photo of it
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Pedal pad numbers are correct, and clutch and manual brake pad used through 1970 at least.
Disc pedal hanger was likely replaced because the clutch shaft bushing was all wallered out. A used pedal hanger from an automatic car will have mint bushings, you would ideally want a disc brake pedal hanger.
Looks like a date stamped on the brake pedal. Starting in 1969 the dates were stamped in the foot portion and is covered by the rubber pad and not seen.
Yes the brake pedal has a FoMoCo and date stamp, but I could not find one on the clutch pedal and pedal is also fully painted.
There is a depression on the foot portion from the rubber pad.
Note the sloppy weld on the clutch shaft bushing. Nothing like the factory bushing
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Looking at those welds...Chances are, the clutch pedal portion of the bracket has been overhauled yet another time after being replaced previously. Replace it.
The clutch pedal (not referring to the pads) may have been replaced but the brake pedal looks to be original.
As already mentioned (twice), source an auto trans assemblyline bracket (disc brake version with holes up high for the mounting of the disc brake pedal), strip the paint off your clutch and brake pedals, strip any surface rust from all bare metal surfaces, repaint any painted parts (as factory did) and reassemble.
Your situation is nothing surprising at all, a very common issue with a very easy, somewhat inexpensive solution available, using your manual trans parts on another bracket.
Be sure to inspect the hole where the clutch rod attaches to the clutch pedal and restore if needed.
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WCCC will sell you a good used one from an automatic equipped car. That means no wear to you. It will be surface rusted when you get it. It will look like this after a trip through an Evapo - Rust bath.
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Looking at those welds...Chances are, the clutch pedal portion of the bracket has been overhauled yet another time after being replaced previously. Replace it.
The clutch pedal (not referring to the pads) may have been replaced but the brake pedal looks to be original.
As already mentioned (twice), source an auto trans assemblyline bracket (disc brake version with holes up high for the mounting of the disc brake pedal), strip the paint off your clutch and brake pedals, strip any surface rust from all bare metal surfaces, repaint any painted parts (as factory did) and reassemble.
Your situation is nothing surprising at all, a very common issue with a very easy, somewhat inexpensive solution available, using your manual trans parts on another bracket.
Be sure to inspect the hole where the clutch rod attaches to the clutch pedal and restore if needed.
Thanks that is great information
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WCCC will sell you a good used one from an automatic equipped car. That means no wear to you. It will be surface rusted when you get it. It will look like this after a trip through an Evapo - Rust bath.
Thanks Royce will do
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WCCC will sell you a good used one from an automatic equipped car. That means no wear to you. It will be surface rusted when you get it. It will look like this after a trip through an Evapo - Rust bath.
Thanks for the info Royce. I was fortunate that Marty read the post and offered up an automatic pedal support/hanger. Just curious as the one he sent me has nut seats on it. Which is correct.
Also not that your has bolts in the mounting location where both the one from my car and the one from Marty have nuts. I will clean the new one up and see how it looks. Thanks for the reference on the cable clip and the cable protector
Also meant to ask about the paint line on the pedal. Should it be a crisp line or a fade?
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to my knowledge, the pedal support with the nut inserts is for manual drum brake cars and the one without nuts (with only one nut) is for power disc/drum applications.
Laurent
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to my knowledge, the pedal support with the nut inserts is for manual drum brake cars and the one without nuts (with only one nut) is for power disc/drum applications.
Laurent
+1, manual drum brake car originally but easier to remove them than to add them.
Brake and clutch pedals were originally dipped so that should answer your question on the paint line.
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+1, manual drum brake car originally but easier to remove them than to add them.
Brake and clutch pedals were originally dipped so that should answer your question on the paint line.
Great thanks Richard
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Well I cleaned up the pedal support/hanger and it looks pretty nice. Just have to put it in the tumbler next. Then order up a bushing kit and dip the pedals etc. Also need to remove the nut serts. Thanks to Marty the hanger is in excellent shape and looks like it has minimal wear.
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Regarding the return spring. I am not sure what would be the correct paint. Was pretty hard to tell from the original paint. Curious what people are using to get the right look.
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Also curious about the material that is on the under column bracket. I am not sure if I should remove the tabs and bolts or not when painting as I am not sure how to replace the material. Any tips?
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I would like to confirm if these fasteners are correct or not. Naturally I assume they are, but it wouldn't be the first time I was wrong and probably not the last
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I know this is a Concours forum but I would HIGHLY recommend the roller bearing for the pedals. The plastic bushings don't last and the pedal effort is reduced.
Just a thought. If you're building a trailer queen, disregard.
-Keith
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I know this is a Concours forum but I would HIGHLY recommend the roller bearing for the pedals. The plastic bushings don't last and the pedal effort is reduced.
Just a thought. If you're building a trailer queen, disregard.
-Keith
Hi Keith. I have had a few friends recommend that, that have done that on their cars. I do plan to drive my car. It does make a lot of sense mechanically however
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I am running the dual friction Centerforce clutch in my Shelby. The roller bearing from Mustang Steve makes it feel like a hydraulic in comparison to the crappy nylon bushings that may last 5,000 miles before they are chewed up. He's about 30 miles from me. I took the support to him and he had it done in about an hour. They are not what NPD and other parts houses offer and likely will never wear out. They are a real roller bearing.
Here is the kit and the installation instructions are on the site. You can even have your old pedal support done. It doesn't matter if the are gone or not.
-Keith
https://www.mustangsteve.com/product/bbk/
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I would like to confirm if these fasteners are correct or not. Naturally I assume they are, but it wouldn't be the first time I was wrong and probably not the last
I don't know about the first picture, the second is a well worn head marking of "NL" (the "L" over the "N") which is a relatively common marking for that time period.
Jim
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I don't know about the first picture, the second is a well worn head marking of "NL" (the "L" over the "N") which is a relatively common marking for that time period.
Jim
Thanks Jim. Re the first photo is there a chance that that is not the correct fastener. I assumed that it was correct since the lower bracket had a date stamp. More photos from the previous post showing more photos of the same carriage bolt. Did Ford even use carriage bolts? I think this is the only one I have seen on my car so far
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I would like to confirm if these fasteners are correct or not. Naturally I assume they are, but it wouldn't be the first time I was wrong and probably not the last
To be sure, the full dimensions of the bolts are needed. A picture may be worth a thousand words, but the sizes are more important.
Example: the second picture in this post, the "NL" head markings, are bolts with external tooth lock washers. The book says it's a bolt with a split ring lock washer, 43490-S8 (AM020 pg22, 5/16-18X3/4Hex).
Did Ford even use carriage bolts?
Yes. A lot, OK a few. I can't find the 67 drawing showing what I believe to be an adjustable bumper for the clutch pedal which i think uses a carriage bolt. Let me look some more.
Jim
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1967-8 pedal supports have a flat ribbed rubber piece with an arrow-shaped tab that inserts into the pedal support. No bolts on 67. 65-66 do bolt-on.
-Keith
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1967-8 pedal supports have a flat ribbed rubber piece with an arrow-shaped tab that inserts into the pedal support. No bolts on 67. 65-66 do bolt-on.
-Keith
Thanks Keith. The aftermarket pedal support that came in my car had the arrow shaped tab on the rubber bumper as well. However it did not survive as it was pretty dried out. I still have it but dont think it is still useable
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NPD has them. They're 3.00. I had to replace mine when I rebuilt the pedal assembly.
https://www.npdlink.com/product/bumper-clutch-and-brake-pedal-made-from-ford/146191?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dclutch%252Bpedal%252Barm%252Bbumper%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1967&year=1967
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NPD has them. They're 3.00. I had to replace mine when I rebuilt the pedal assembly.
https://www.npdlink.com/product/bumper-clutch-and-brake-pedal-made-from-ford/146191?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dclutch%252Bpedal%252Barm%252Bbumper%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1967&year=1967
Great thanks
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Does anyone recognize this attached bracket I didnt see it on the OP's or on the pedal support Royce posted pics of this was removed from a mid July Dearborn PDB 4sp car with no options. The screw fastening it does look like a typical Ford self tapping screw from that time.
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If you are referring to the zinc plated one it is to hold the flasher unit.
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Thanks Marty.
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Should there be a fastner wired to the flasher pigtail that mounts to the unique size hole thats on the bracket as Im going through my harness I only have the pig tail, connector and flasher.
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Should there be a fastner wired to the flasher pigtail that mounts to the unique size hole thats on the bracket as Im going through my harness I only have the pig tail, connector and flasher.
Not being a "68" specialist but doesn't the original plastic housing flasher have a square knob that shape? Does it simply twist lock into place?
I quickly looked for a picture, found a Wagner, I believe original supplier was Tung-Sol but picture is for reference to the "knob".
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+1 Marty
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My 2 flasher cans are aluminum Autolite C8ZB flasher cans without the nub.