ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1968 Mustang => Topic started by: bullitt68 on April 11, 2020, 05:50:09 PM
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I tried searching but have not been able to verify if this is an original fuel filler neck, but since it has no stampings, logo's or part numbers I assume it is a reproduction, unless I hear otherwise. Also curious what the correct finish should be. I can't tell if this one was plated or painted or both. FYI my car also came with an aftermarket fuel cap cover with a twist on cap
Anyone?
Thanks
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I tried searching but have not been able to verify if this is an original fuel filler neck, but since it has no stampings, logo's or part numbers I assume it is a reproduction, unless I hear otherwise. Also curious what the correct finish should be. I can't tell if this one was plated or painted or both. FYI my car also came with an aftermarket fuel cap cover with a twist on cap
Anyone?
Thanks
`From the factory it had a finish very similar to the gas tank but with a higher lead content I believe. You could hit it with a gas pump nozzle with no fear of a spark is one theory.
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`From the factory it had a finish very similar to the gas tank but with a higher lead content I believe. You could hit it with a gas pump nozzle with no fear of a spark is one theory.
Do you think mine is an original. It looked plated with paint. Sort of galvanized but not really
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Turn it sideways so we can see the arc.
Jeff has an article in the library on how to refinish it.
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Turn it sideways so we can see the arc.
Jeff has an article in the library on how to refinish it.
Great thanks Bill. What year?
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Great thanks Bill. What year?
Believe it is posted in every year
Title - - Filler Neck Finishes- Reproducing
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Believe it is posted in every year
Title - - Filler Neck Finishes- Reproducing
Thanks Jeff great article. From now I should just check the library before I ask any questions. It's all right there. I had no idea that the tube was tinned. That is quite the process for sure. I wonder how many people follow that procedure on their restorations. Perhaps mine is an original
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I need to put together another order and get the flux. I have the tin and will give it a shot.
I've done lots of copper piping over the years, so this is just bigger.
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Thanks Jeff great article. From now I should just check the library before I ask any questions. It's all right there. I had no idea that the tube was tinned. That is quite the process for sure. I wonder how many people follow that procedure on their restorations. Perhaps mine is an original
You can tell from the picture that the filler neck is not the original finish.If you read my post then you can see why it is easy to tell. Yours looks painted . Regardless it is not the original finish which looks substantially different.
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You can tell from the picture that the filler neck is not the original finish.If you read my post then you can see why it is easy to tell. Yours looks painted . Regardless it is not the original finish which looks substantially different.
Thanks Bob Should have any stamps on it to identify it?
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You can tell from the picture that the filler neck is not the original finish.If you read my post then you can see why it is easy to tell. Yours looks painted . Regardless it is not the original finish which looks substantially different.
I thought the same, it looked painted (scratches).
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Thanks Bob Should have any stamps on it to identify it?
No stamps or numbers to identify it.
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No stamps or numbers to identify it.
Thanks Bob. I will have to see how I do on the lead skinning. Challenge accepted. Something I have never done before, but a touch that cannot be duplicated as far as I know. The end result looks great and the only part on the car with that finish as far as I know
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Thanks Bob. I will have to see how I do on the lead skinning. Challenge accepted. Something I have never done before, but a touch that cannot be duplicated as far as I know. The end result looks great and the only part on the car with that finish as far as I know
Would suggest tin rather than lead ;)
Good thing about attempting this is that if you mess up you can reheat it, run the mess off the filler tube and try again till your happy. If you have more than one filler neck I would do a number of them all at the same time and pick out the one you like the best and sell off the rest. Not going to cost you any more in product - just a little time.
Dad always taught me that you don't make one of almost anything when doing things like this. Just what has served me well over the years
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Would suggest tin rather than lead ;)
Good thing about attempting this is that if you mess up you can reheat it, run the mess off the filler tube and try again till your happy. If you have more than one filler neck I would do a number of them all at the same time and pick out the one you like the best and sell off the rest. Not going to cost you any more in product - just a little time.
Dad always taught me that you don't make one of almost anything when doing things like this. Just what has served me well over the years
Great advice from you and dad Jeff. Thanks I will try that
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Mine had a few small dents.
One trick is to use something like a tire removal iron and solidly mount it in your mondo vice. The tire iron has a smooth arc in both directions on the end. I dress up the arc with a high speed flapper and get it real smooth.
Place the tire iron near the edge of the dent and start lightly tapping around the area.
It's like using a hammer and dolly, but the dolly is the tire iron.
I take apart ball joints to get the ball hidden inside. They make great round anvils.
Weld some large flat stock to the threaded end and it clamps in the vice easily.
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`From the factory it had a finish very similar to the gas tank but with a higher lead content I believe. You could hit it with a gas pump nozzle with no fear of a spark is one theory.
The finish on the filler necks and tanks is known as "terne plate". It's approximately 80% tin, 20% lead, applied via hot dipping. The purpose of the plating is for corrosion protection. The lead was used to lower the cost - it's cheaper than 100% tin. The modern replacement is a tin/nickel combination to eliminate the lead.
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The finish on the filler necks and tanks is known as "terne plate". It's approximately 80% tin, 20% lead, applied via hot dipping. The purpose of the plating is for corrosion protection. The lead was used to lower the cost - it's cheaper than 100% tin. The modern replacement is a tin/nickel combination to eliminate the lead.
Don't believe the process was the same on both. If you take a torch to each (don't try on a gas tank with out cutting a section of the metal out) I've found they react very differently. Agree that the tanks were terne plated and they were marked and identified as such on the makers markings