ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1968 Mustang => Topic started by: bullitt68 on April 20, 2020, 04:29:27 PM
-
I tried searching for a photo of a Rear License Plate Light Assembly. Would love to see an original and a restored version if possible. I am assuming that mine is original. It looks bent to me.
Thanks
-
Don't have one off the car - closest I have is a 69.
Yes yours is bent, wire cut and the plating is long gone. Pretty easy to restore. You can knock the socket out like the taillight, back up and turn signal ones. Replate and reassemble if not pitted. Not sure if the gaskets are reproduced but likely are. Finish between the housing and bracket are different from the rivet if I recall correctly. Others will double check my statement.
Use to toss a dozen or more of these into the bucket every time I did plating on a more regular basis and sold off the extras
-
Don't have one off the car - closest I have is a 69.
Yes yours is bent, wire cut and the plating is long gone. Pretty easy to restore. You can knock the socket out like the taillight, back up and turn signal ones. Replate and reassemble if not pitted. Not sure if the gaskets are reproduced but likely are. Finish between the housing and bracket are different from the rivet if I recall correctly. Others will double check my statement.
Use to toss a dozen or more of these into the bucket every time I did plating on a more regular basis and sold off the extras
Gaskets are reproduced although different (big surprise). Yes on different rivet finish.
-
Don't have one off the car - closest I have is a 69.
Yes yours is bent, wire cut and the plating is long gone. Pretty easy to restore. You can knock the socket out like the taillight, back up and turn signal ones. Replate and reassemble if not pitted. Not sure if the gaskets are reproduced but likely are. Finish between the housing and bracket are different from the rivet if I recall correctly. Others will double check my statement.
Use to toss a dozen or more of these into the bucket every time I did plating on a more regular basis and sold off the extras
Thanks Jeff. I started cleaning up the License Plate Light Assembly and it looks original as it has a Ford Logo. Not sure what the original gasket looks like, but here is mine.
Also it looked the centre pice was dichromate and the main bracket was zinc.
Concerning shape, does my mounting end tabs (ears) look bent or is that how they came?
-
Both parts of the body would have been zinc dichromate As we all accept the dye does not hold up to the test of time and the elements
The "ears" would be straight across from one another ( in an imaginary straight line) the the light would sit horizontal to the attaching surface and the bumper
Something like this only allot nicer looking. Sorry not a great picture but what I have
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/13/6-220420043055.jpeg)
-
Both parts of the body would have been zinc dichromate As we all accept the dye does not hold up to the test of time and the elements
The "ears" would be straight across from one another ( in an imaginary straight line) the the light would sit horizontal to the attaching surface and the bumper
Something like this only allot nicer looking. Sorry not a great picture but what I have
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/13/6-220420043055.jpeg)
Great thanks Jeff. That is a great start as it is the first visual reference I have. Looks like my bulb lens cover is original as well, not sure about my gasket. Looks like I will need top try to find a new wire as someone cut mine at some point.
-
Great thanks Jeff. That is a great start as it is the first visual reference I have. Looks like my bulb lens cover is original as well, not sure about my gasket. Looks like I will need top try to find a new wire as someone cut mine at some point.
Gasket appears original . You will have to get the wire and grommet from a donor lic plate light if you want it like original.I am not aware of a alternate source .
-
Gasket appears original . You will have to get the wire and grommet from a donor lic plate light if you want it like original.I am not aware of a alternate source .
Great thanks Bob. I will check with Scott at West Coast Classic Cougars. Sometimes they are pretty good at oddball original parts. I wonder if the Cougar had the same light assembly.
-
I will check with Scott at West Coast Classic Cougars. Sometimes they are pretty good at oddball original parts. I wonder if the Cougar had the same light assembly.
The 68 license plate light assembly for Mustangs is the same as the 67, C7ZB-13550-B. I'm not sure, but the wire assembly, from socket to male bullet connector, "may" be the same as used in 64 thru 66.
Jim
-
This might be off topic but related to the license lamp hardware and details.
I have two lamps, both appear to be original 67 lamps, but no date stamping noticed on either.
I did notice a black daub near one rivet on the one removed from my project car but keep in mind that doesn't mean to say it is the original one to my car because I know of at least 3 times that I had that bumper off the car when I was close to several other vehicles for parts donors so no way to be sure. I was hoping to find a date stamp to prove or disprove it being the original.
Anyways, about the black daub. I see another daub at the bulb socket.
The other lamp looks like a daub of black, (perhaps sealant) to temporarily glue the gasket in place?
I also observed two different clips for the mounting screws, the clips that slide onto the lamps. Perhaps different assembly plants or time periods.
-
This might be off topic but related to the license lamp hardware and details.
I have two lamps, both appear to be original 67 lamps, but no date stamping noticed on either.
I did notice a black daub near one rivet on the one removed from my project car but keep in mind that doesn't mean to say it is the original one to my car because I know of at least 3 times that I had that bumper off the car when I was close to several other vehicles for parts donors so no way to be sure. I was hoping to find a date stamp to prove or disprove it being the original.
Anyways, about the black daub. I see another daub at the bulb socket.
The other lamp looks like a daub of black, (perhaps sealant) to temporarily glue the gasket in place?
I also observed two different clips for the mounting screws, the clips that slide onto the lamps. Perhaps different assembly plants or time periods.
Black is most likely gasket sealant for the reason you suspect.
-
Upon disassembling, I found a few other details.
1.) a possible date code on one lens cover at the screw hole.
2.) There seems to be a shellac daub on the socket, where it meets the bulb socket housing ( no picture provided, sorry).
3.) There were two different screws used to secure the bulb cover (one is not a machine screw).
4.) Different bulb springs
5.) As mentioned already different mounting clips but one had slightly shorter screws also.
-
Upon disassembling, I found a few other details.
1.) a possible date code on one lens cover at the screw hole.
2.) There seems to be a shellac daub on the socket, where it meets the bulb socket housing ( no picture provided, sorry).
3.) There were two different screws used to secure the bulb cover (one is not a machine screw).
4.) Different bulb springs
5.) As mentioned already different mounting clips but one had slightly shorter screws also.
Clearly two different mfg's .That supports Ford's practice so as to keep delays down to a minimum if supply was interrupted from a single MFG.Thanks for the comparison
-
This place sells the wiring cover:
https://www.restorationspecialties.com/Wire-Loom_c_326.html
I don't remember the exact size, but shouldn't be too hard to figure out.
-
And you can get the wiring ends here, since to install new sheathing requires the end to be snipped.
https://www.repairconnector.com/
-
And you can get the wiring ends here, since to install new sheathing requires the end to be snipped.
https://www.repairconnector.com/
Actually, no. The rubber shield on the light socket end can be loosened (it's held to the wire with a "spot weld" type dot, I carefully use a Xacto knife tip to cut the "dot") and the wire shoved further into the socket exposing the contact. The contact can be unsoldered and uncrimped (or just cut off if a new one is available - see below) and then the wire can be pulled back out, making the removal of the old sleeve a breeze and (obviously) a new sleeve installed as easy. Either reuse the old contact, or get a new one at Rhode Island Wiring - http://www.riwire.com/ (under "Washers, Buttons and Springs", as "Small Brass Buttons").
As I posted before, they carry the sleeving (under "Metal and Non-Metal Conduit Tubes, 3/16 inch recommended).
Jim
-
Jim: The link I provided sells the brass contact ends, which is what I was referring to. I just snip the end off, pull the wire out completely for restoration. After re-plating all the pieces and re-riveting the parts back together, a new wire covering can be added and then a new contact crimped onto the end. As cheap/easy as it is to do new contact ends, I wouldn't bother trying to re-use the old one. The amount of wiring removed by snipping the end is negligible.
-
This place sells the wiring cover:
https://www.restorationspecialties.com/Wire-Loom_c_326.html
I don't remember the exact size, but shouldn't be too hard to figure out.
Thanks, a good source for a few various sizes I needed....plus some other "goodies".
-
Jim: The link I provided sells the brass contact ends, which is what I was referring to...
*temporarily out of stock (April 2020).
-
I have always bought lengths of that from one of the tool or fastener guys always set up at the larger swao meets. Well that isn't going to happen this year most likely.
-
*temporarily out of stock (April 2020).
Richard : Try "YNZ".
Bob
-
I have found a similar material on the inside door handle release rod cover. I save them and soak them with some thinned roofing cement. I think I have a extra light that I restored some time ago, I'll try to get a picture.
-
I have found a similar material on the inside door handle release rod cover. I save them and soak them with some thinned roofing cement. I think I have a extra light that I restored some time ago, I'll try to get a picture.
Thanks Marty appreciate it
-
I have found a similar material on the inside door handle release rod cover. I save them and soak them with some thinned roofing cement. I think I have a extra light that I restored some time ago, I'll try to get a picture.
I ordered some new loom for both the door linkage rods (3/16" i.d.) and some 1/8" i.d. for the license light from where Charles suggested earlier. Their website is awkward to navigate but they have some really difficult things to find.
I bought some new wiring clips for the fuel guage wire at the fuel tank, new steel push-in clips (67 use, not 68) for the firewall pad and most interesting find, the correct spiral nails for my vinyl roof. I bought a few other items and only spent $29 including usps shipping. They were out of stock of the bulb contacts is all.
-
I have found a similar material on the inside door handle release rod cover. I save them and soak them with some thinned roofing cement. I think I have a extra light that I restored some time ago, I'll try to get a picture.
here two Pictures to compare. I would also say the protection is the same Material...
-
here two Pictures to compare. I would also say the protection is the same Material...
Material from the door linkage rod insulation is the same as the material of the license lamp wire loom, yes (both are a tar soaked cloth loom) but I have found (at least on my example) they are two different sizes. Perhaps different suppliers used different diameter cloth loom (yet to be determined).
I have samples of both (both removed from my build) readily available and have compared the sizing side by side.
-
Here is a picture of a restored one that I have on the shelf.
-
The only issue with re-purposing some from the door rod is it's also 50+ years old now and can also be fragile.
-
Here is a picture of a restored one that I have on the shelf.
Thanks for posting Marty. Looks great. Is that the original wire?
-
Thanks for posting Marty. Looks great. Is that the original wire?
Yes it is the original wire. If you look carefully you can see the Ford #s at the top.
FYI NPD has the correct wire cover material part #9278-1K
-
Yes it is the original wire. If you look carefully you can see the Ford #s at the top.
FYI NPD has the correct wire cover material part #9278-1K
Great thanks. I am going to need a new wire as well. Everything else looks good and can be restored. I did a search on the NPD website for that part number and I could not find the wire sheath
-
NPD 9278-1K is now $4.60, as of 10:56AM PDT, 4/24/20.
Jim
-
NPD 9278-1K is now $4.60, as of 10:56AM PDT, 4/24/20.
Jim
Thanks Jim worked that time!
-
A picture is worth a thousand words so to show the two sizes of cloth loom I found and their differences in sizing, attached is an image of the 1/8" i.d. asphalt loom I found on the license lamp wire and the 3/16" i.d. asphalt loom I found on my door handle linkages.
Also pictured is a sampling of the new loom I purchased for both of these usages and the respective part numbers for ease if anyone needs to order.
Sold by the foot (currently each at 60 cents/ft.) at Restoration Specialties out of Windber Pa.
-
A picture is worth a thousand words so to show the two sizes of cloth loom I found and their differences in sizing, attached is an image of the 1/8" i.d. asphalt loom I found on the license lamp wire and the 3/16" i.d. asphalt loom I found on my door handle linkages.
Also pictured is a sampling of the new loom I purchased for both of these usages and the respective part numbers for ease if anyone needs to order.
Sold by the foot (currently each at 60 cents/ft.) at Restoration Specialties out of Windber Pa.
Thanks Richard that is great information appreciate it
-
I dichromate my license plate housing brake, and would like to confirm of the centre section that is riveted in should be zinc or dichromate. Also curious where to get rivets to place the ones I would removed if the centre section needs to be zinc plated
-
I dichromate my license plate housing brake, and would like to confirm of the centre section that is riveted in should be zinc or dichromate. Also curious where to get rivets to place the ones I would removed if the centre section needs to be zinc plated
Only the rivet was zinc originally.
-
Only the rivet was zinc originally.
Great thanks Bob
-
Also curious where to get rivets to place the ones I would removed if the centre section needs to be zinc plated
Try - https://rivetsinstock.com/
I found mine there. You need to measure the ones you remove and then do some surfin' in their catalog. You will also need a special rivet tool, or at least the two dies to install if you have a press.
Jim
-
It may be easier to mask off before dipping in the chromate. It will wipe off with various chemicals but you will have to mask area surrounding or risk damaging finish there.
-
Try - https://rivetsinstock.com/
I found mine there. You need to measure the ones you remove and then do some surfin' in their catalog. You will also need a special rivet tool, or at least the two dies to install if you have a press.
Jim
Thanks Jim
-
It may be easier to mask off before dipping in the chromate. It will wipe off with various chemicals but you will have to mask area surrounding or risk damaging finish there.
I will see if I can remove the dichromate from the rivets
-
I'm about to restore the license light as well.
The previous owner has made some "nice" modifications, especially on the wire. See pic.
Before I gonne re-chromate the housing, how to remove
- the rubber near the bulb and
- the rubber to the car body
I would like to avoid destroying both rubbers.
What is the lenght of the wire from housing to the car body rubber and the total?
Unfortunately the wiring and rubbers can not be bought in GER.
Looking also to the correct wire loom (https://www.restorationspecialties.com/Wire-Loom_c_326.html) But there are so many different ones....
Thx
-
If you plate this thing as one piece the dichromate is easily removed from the rivet with a light brushing of a Dremel with a wire brush. Otherwise you need take it apart and reassemble using the proper Rivet Squeezer tool, mandrels and rivets. That's an easy $250 right there if you do it.
The grommet that goes into the body may be hard as a rock. Look up "Wintergreen oil to soften rubber".
To remove the rubber part around the housing use a 4" long (approx) small flat blade screwdriver and move it under the rubber. There are one or two dots of adhesive that hold it in place.
To remove the wire, cut off the button that contacts the light bulb and the whole affair comes apart. When I put mine back I recreated the button with the metal portion of a squeeze style ring connector. Or buy a button from Rhode Island Wire. It's also possible to reuse the existing button if you can pry it apart. Very fiddly.
To fix your wire situation you need to source a similar looking wire and end from an old harness.
There is a sleeve missing from your assembly too. NPD carries the sleeve.
All things considered you might consider to have yours done by someone who has the parts. It may well be cheaper. PM me for a name.
-
Thanks Bill.
Sounds not as easy as I thought. But I decided not going to re-rivet.
A pic of what I have.
What do you mean with "sleeve" is missing?
PM sent.