ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Processes, Products & Techniques => Topic started by: sparky65 on September 24, 2009, 11:50:33 PM
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ADMIN NOTE: The following includes posts post and threads from a number of original threads on a similar subject merged to keep them all together
So I haven't looked at the trans since I pulled it from the car. I will most likely have it checked out by a trans shop along with the output shaft seals replaced. What should I do about cleaning it up? Maybe the shop can do it for me, I just need to know what to ask them to do.
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Trans shops usually have nice cleaning solution. Tell them you want it brightened up like original.
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How do you preserve the finish after it is cleaned up? Use the cast aluminum paint or some other clear coat?
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Was going through the archives looking for the answer to this question and since it wasn't answered I'll ask it again.
How do you preserve the natural finish on the transmission after its cleaned up?
Thanks,
Greg
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A C4 case is aluminum and as such will not corrode like iron or steel. Aluminum oxide is formed when the case is in the presence of oxygen and that retards further corrosion, so paint or other formal surface treatment is not needed. Get the case as clean as possible with soap and water, thinner, Simple Green (my favorite is Krud Kutter) or anything to remove grease and oil. The next step is simple, steel wool or a light wire brush to get a rough "sheen". We use a stand mounted buffing wheel on a top-loader bell housing and it worked good. Transmission shops have cleaning "stuff" but most leave an slightly oily residue, which will come off easily.
Jim
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Here's what I did to mine. There's NO way you're gonna get a transmission shop to get it this clean for a reasonable fee. I just kept scrubbing mine with a stainless toothbrush and lacquer thinner.
I don't know how it would stand up to judging but I cleared it with PPG Concept and I have 5,000 miles on it now and it looks spotless.
(http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad350/bryancobb/switch.jpg)
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Not sure if you were wanting any feedback on the pic, but since you put it out there, I guess a couple things piqued my interest. The finish on the shift rod, looks like it was done in zinc? Thought these were usually natural steel or phosphate. Did you find that yellow mark on the parking brake cable lever? Seen a bunch of them and never found a marking. The zinc dichromate on the side cover sticks out, seems like that plate is usually natural?
Not trying to pick on you, just interested in these finishes.
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Not sure if you were wanting any feedback on the pic, but since you put it out there, I guess a couple things piqued my interest. The finish on the shift rod, looks like it was done in zinc? Thought these were usually natural steel or phosphate. Did you find that yellow mark on the parking brake cable lever? Seen a bunch of them and never found a marking. The zinc dichromate on the side cover sticks out, seems like that plate is usually natural?
Agree with Charles (and look forward to your response) that these items are different from what I've seen on Cr4 from the period
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You guys are the experts. The servo cap is wrong. The shift rod IS wrong. These items will be corrected.
As for the yellow paint on the brake lever, It WAS there but I don't know its' origin. Lots of ways yellow could have got on there. Thanks for the coaching. I'll remove it.
The primary focus of this picture was to show how clean I was able to get the case and bellhousing, to see if what I experienced, applied to what the OP was asking.
I have to say that I am a wrench-head, artsy, engineering type. I HAVE NEVER had a car judged. I have ZERO experience in that realm yet.
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I'm more interested in any "preservation" techniques once the case is cleaned. Does anyone recommend hitting it with a clear coat or as Jim said the aluminum will not corrode and any formal surface treatment is not needed. What about the servo cover and trans pan, which I have read is bare metal, any suggestions to "treat" these to keep them from rusting or does the oily nature of the parts suffice.
Thanks,
Greg
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Aluminum DOES corrode! It's prevention is a MAJOR chore for aircraft owners and mechanics.
I posted the picture of mine because I used PPG Concept clear on the case for "preservation."
It is crystal clear catalyzed polyurethane and as you can see in the picture, doesn't look like it's there.
As I said, I have no idea how it will do in judging.???
Charles-n-them say Boe-Shield is THE STUFF for preserving natural stuff.
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Aluminum DOES corrode! It's prevention is a MAJOR chore for aircraft owners and mechanics.
Aluminum in the presence of oxygen forms a layer of aluminum oxide which resists further formation of aluminum oxide. Aircraft maintenance techniques that polish aluminum skins do so to remove dirt (oil, moisture and other surface maladys), besides it gives ground crews something to do. If you leave aluminum alone, e.g. - unprotected as in no paint, it will not corrode, at least as fast as iron or steel. That's basic physics and manufacturing engineering.
Jim
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I'm NOT talking about aircraft aluminum skins. I'm talking about STRUCTURAL components hidden deep inside.
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Can anyone endorse a product for cleaning the aluminum transmission case. The transmission is intact which reduces the options considerably. Attempted to use EZ off oven cleaner Heavy Duty but on a test patch it turned the alloy black and did little in the way of getting me where I wanted to end up. Maybe you have used a different brand? Trying to get a clean surface, hope for a bright finish as when cast. Thanks for any suggestions.
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Can anyone endorse a product for cleaning the aluminum transmission case. The transmission is intact which reduces the options considerably. Attempted to use EZ off oven cleaner Heavy Duty but on a test patch it turned the alloy black and did little in the way of getting me where I wanted to end up. Maybe you have used a different brand? Trying to get a clean surface, hope for a bright finish as when cast. Thanks for any suggestions.
Steam cleaning gets most of the stuff. Power wash doesn't do as good . The heat in the steam does wonders. Then go over it with eagle wire wheel cleaner and various size stiff PLASTIC brushes. It is a mild acid product so wear safety glasses ,gloves and ventilated area that has a drain so when you hose it off (obviously you will plug dipstick)
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I have had good results on aluminum bellhousings with repeated applications of Simple Green and a stiff brush. Drench it, leave it on a while, spray again then scrub, rinse, repeat. Takes lots of elbow grease but eventually yields results.
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I have had good results on aluminum bellhousings with repeated applications of Simple Green and a stiff brush. Drench it, leave it on a while, spray again then scrub, rinse, repeat. Takes lots of elbow grease but eventually yields results.
The odor of Simple Green makes me physically sick. I've been using a cleaner called Krud Kutter for many years now. It is primarily a paint remover but handles grease, wax and other bad things. It's available from the paint department at Home Depot. All the other steps listed in the previous posts to get the big chunks off, steam, engine degreaser, wire brushes, etc, should be done first, then use either Simple Green or Krud Kutter. I just finished cleaning the deep sink in my garage with Krud Kutter (it was bad) so add that to the list of things it can do. Also, put your transmission out in the sun on a hot day for an hour or two and then use Eazy-Off oven cleaner. In all cases, try what you are thinking about doing on a small test spot for a couple of reasons: will it work; will it come off; will it leave a stain; will is leave a mess and how do I do it.
Jim
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Steam cleaning gets most of the stuff. Power wash doesn't do as good . The heat in the steam does wonders. Then go over it with eagle wire wheel cleaner and various size stiff PLASTIC brushes. It is a mild acid product so wear safety glasses ,gloves and ventilated area that has a drain so when you hose it off (obviously you will plug dipstick)
Bob the Eagle wheel cleaner did a great job and it is clean and bright but when it is dry it is a bit dull and chalky. Is there a product to apply that will return the new luster and protect from corrosion? I tried lightly rubbing with some 0000 steel wool in a small area it seemed to help but will do nothing to protect it.
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Unlike iron or steel which rust when exposed to moisture, aluminum forms a protective layer after a period of time when exposed. That's the good news. To get a "cast" aluminum look, use a rough wire wheel and apply some light oil to give it a used look. I also like a trip to the car wash after hours when the owner/attendant is absent.
Jim
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I degrease the trans then I have a small soda blaster I use to get the paint and other stuff off. Makes them look new again! Just did mine I try to post a picture in a day or so.
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Bob the Eagle wheel cleaner did a great job and it is clean and bright but when it is dry it is a bit dull and chalky. Is there a product to apply that will return the new luster and protect from corrosion? I tried lightly rubbing with some 0000 steel wool in a small area it seemed to help but will do nothing to protect it.
Boe shield will do the trick.
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I thought of Boe shield but after all this work I did not want to use the wrong product. Thanks!
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BBQ or oven cleaner works very well, but you must read the packaging and select a NON-CAUSTIC product to prevent it turning aluminium black.
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What's a good tip for getting the aluminum housing to look original again? Mine was blasted before assembly but it should have a more uniform finish. Any great tips?
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Just to update things there are at least two other threads on the same subject or at least related to aluminum case or body cleaning
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=16135.msg101009#msg101009 (https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=16135.msg101009#msg101009)
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=10132.0 (https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=10132.0)
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I have not tried it on large parts but lemon juice and cream of tartar (spice) does wonders in brightening aluminum. It will not bring back to shiny aluminum.
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So I was having a very nasty C6 being rebuilt for a 428CJ GT-E - a very rare 1968 version. The transmission looked like it (and the car) had sat in a junk yard for decades. The transmission was caked with mud and very greasy.
The transmission shop tore it down and put it in their industrial parts cleaner. Then they called me and told me it was clean enough to rebuild but it would not be to my standards.
So I picked it up and took it to ACD where they will wet soda blast anything you bring them. The wet soda (bicarbonate of soda) did a fabulous job. Another trip through the chemical cleaner tank and the transmission is rebuilt and in the car looking great.
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Royce - it does look great!
Daven - I think once it has been blasted, the only way to improve it is to tumble it.
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Very nice Royce! Look forward to seeing the GT-E when it's finished.
While I prefer to use the '#13 screen' super fine glass bead, the soda in a wet blasting application works very well. Either media will bring the natural color variations back to the aluminum. This is actually a color photo, but the best that I had at hand.
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Yes it needs to be expressed that your not looking for a consistent - monotone finish on these large parts like is produced with other cleaning methods that can and will destroy the original surface to a point where the effects can not be reversed.
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There are lots of crayon marks on an original transmission case. I did not try to reproduce those because I wanted authenticity and did not know what the original marks might have looked like.
The car is done. It's pretty good. This picture is from the day I had it aligned. It was raining and I had not installed the trim rings yet.
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I lost my pictures I had of all the original crayon markings on my automatic transmission, however I do have an old VHSC tape of the crayon marks. I'm just hoping that I can make the tape look good enough to get the correct colors and symbols. I will definitely have to transfer it to digital. If it comes out good enough I will post pictures.
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I lost my pictures I had of all the original crayon markings on my automatic transmission, however I do have an old VHSC tape of the crayon marks. I'm just hoping that I can make the tape look good enough to get the correct colors and symbols. I will definitely have to transfer it to digital. If it comes out good enough I will post pictures.
When and iff you do post remember to include that your car is from San Jose since some of the marks (those placed at that plant) will be different than others installed elsewhere