ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1967 Shelby => Topic started by: daveb9 on August 06, 2020, 02:26:17 PM
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I am looking for new taillight bezels for my 67 GT500. It is a 1st week of February car and was wondering if it would have the bezels with studs or screws? Not sure when the change was made. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Dave
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I am looking for new taillight bezels for my 67 GT500. It is a 1st week of February car and was wondering if it would have the bezels with studs or screws? Not sure when the change was made. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Dave
What Shelby vin is the car?Do you have the flat tail panel or the contoured?
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67400F2A01043. I will find out about the panel.
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I am looking for new taillight bezels for my 67 GT500. It is a 1st week of February car and was wondering if it would have the bezels with studs or screws? Not sure when the change was made. Any help is greatly appreciated.
For this detail (Ford verses Shelby processes) you car was completed at the end of March 1967
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Panel is flat.
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Panel is flat.
That would be typical and would be inline with other cars produced about the same time as yours by observation. You should be looking for the tail light bezel with studs. It seems like the change in tail light bezels coincides with the change in tail panel flat to contoured. The trunk side light boxes were also changed at that time.
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Bob, my tail lamp boxes are closed in on the ends. I would assume that means there are three different boxes. two for flat panel cars and one for contoured panels?
Why don't you post a picture of what your box ends look like.
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Thanks Bob. I talked with Chris B. who is doing the car, and he felt the stud type also. We just wanted to ask here to make sure. Great to have this resource to come to for info.
Dave
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Might as well tag onto this post.
After much fun (!@#$%^&) drilling and taping the broken studs on my car I have to ask what the finish is on the front. Pic here to show part number and that I cleaned off the back under 25 psi glass ball while the front was taped off.
The SAAC forum says stuff like shiny but not too shiny. This is like saying semi-gloss (I have come to hate that non-specific term)!
Any help on where I end up? Is this like 1500 wet/dry shiny?
Also, how many surface imperfections are allowed? This is not the finest aluminum casting I've seen so are the pinholes in mine from corrosion or simple porosity? There isn't any on the main overall surface (like you see on an aluminum framed window).
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Might as well tag onto this post.
After much fun (!@#$%^&) drilling and taping the broken studs on my car I have to ask what the finish is on the front. Pic here to show part number and that I cleaned off the back under 25 psi glass ball while the front was taped off.
The SAAC forum says stuff like shiny but not too shiny. This is like saying semi-gloss (I have come to hate that non-specific term)!
Any help on where I end up? Is this like 1500 wet/dry shiny?
Also, how many surface imperfections are allowed? This is not the finest aluminum casting I've seen so are the pinholes in mine from corrosion or simple porosity? There isn't any on the main overall surface (like you see on an aluminum framed window).
Shiny like 400 shiny. From the NOS and originals that I have seen the finish is like 400 grit shiny. Many over restore them because it is easy to make them look shiner.600 is pushing it if you want the original look. The mirror finish are the ones on the one extreme. Dull like the way the repros typically come are on the other end. I have seen porosity before.At least that is my opinion . Others may have different.
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Thanks a bunch, Bob.
That's not very shiny ...
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this was recently posted in Parts for Sale
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=23861.0
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this was recently posted in Parts for Sale
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=23861.0
FYI those may be genuine lens but the trim rings are repros.
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Looking through a few backend shots I found the white Shelby that was judged at the Minnesota MCA show a few years ago.
After looking at all the other very shiny to mirror shiny versions this one appears to represent low gloss 400 (approx).
I wonder how to get there. It almost looks lightly media blasted.
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If you are starting with ones that are more polished then you may have to lightly bead blast (just enough to dull) them and start from the ground up . In that case maybe start with 250 and work your way up . You want a gradual finer grade sand paper so as to get all of the heavier scratches out before moving on to the next finer.
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Rather then bead blasting you may also try spraying some aluminum wash on them. The spray for porous aluminum . Its the one that says don't spray on shiny aluminum . That will dull them down and then go over them with 400 or 600.
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The pits on mine appear to be concentrated near the exhaust.
However in trying to see if this is true I prefit my bezels with lenses and I can't figure out which way is up (yep, I said that).
The car is high on a lift with another under it so test fitting these is awkward.
The bezels have standoffs off only one side so the lens is canted. After looking at pics it's still not clear as there are so many different taillight panels. Mine is a flat panel with large inside buckets.
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According to SAAC Registrar Dave Mathews the standoffs go up.