ConcoursMustang Forums
Non-Mustang Ford & Mercury Models => Cougar 1967-73 => Topic started by: RoyceP on December 31, 2020, 08:51:04 PM
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I am in the process of restoring a June 1968 built Cougar GT-E 8F93R56XXXXX.
The starter that came with the car seems to have no markings. I am used to seeing a number engraved on the main case. I can't find one.
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I am used to seeing a number stamped here - nothing.
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The stud for the cable is fine thread with a tall nut that shows remnants of plating - nickel maybe?
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The end plate looks typical to me.
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I am in the process of restoring a June 1968 built Cougar GT-E 8F93R56XXXXX.
The starter that came with the car seems to have no markings. I am used to seeing a number engraved on the main case. I can't find one.
Given what I see on the nose cone of your pictured starter indicates it is a rebuild and not original to the car you found it on. That would also explain why it does not have the metal stamping on the case like it typically would. Yes Ford was metal stamping the info on the starter case beginning in later 67 production.
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Jeff S dubbed that kind of rebuilt starter a Frankenstein .That describes the typical rebuild process and intermixing of parts from others pretty accurately.
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The stud for the cable is fine thread with a tall nut that shows remnants of plating - nickel maybe?
The tall nut is another rebuild characteristic.
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Thanks Bob - so you think the case may be earlier? The car has been off the road since maybe 1980 so it likely predates Chinese made stuff.
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Thanks Bob - so you think the case may be earlier? The car has been off the road since maybe 1980 so it likely predates Chinese made stuff.
Although some parts are after market sourced the nose,barrel case (center) or back were not typically assembled out of Chinese or foreign parts but a combination of parts from other year starters . Your nose cone for instance showing the rib/ribs around the outside band perimeter (seen on the outside) indicate it is a post 1970 nose cone when the reinforcement ribs were added to the inside nose shield. 60's starters don't have that improved part. The barrel not having the metal stamped engineering numbers indicates it is 67 or earlier or could be a aftermarket replacement. There are other tells that are talked about in previous threads.
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Jeff S dubbed that kind of rebuilt starter a Frankenstein .That describes the typical rebuild process and intermixing of parts from others pretty accurately.
To illustrate the mixing and matching that went on I've posted below a rebuilt starter out of a small block Ford where the main body was obviously part of another starter originally and is stamped - AMERICAN MOTORS ::) Testifying to the interchangeability and that the re-builders really didn't care as long as it worked and it could be sold
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/14/6-010121000909.jpeg)
If you look up the part number you will find that the starter, along with the Ford ones, can be used in some American Motors applications as well as Jeep so no telling what markings you can find on some of the parts that make up a rebuilt starter. Have seen similar practices on rebuilt master cylinders with some interesting configurations as I knopw Bob G has.
The tall nut is another rebuild characteristic.
Taller nut with new cable attachment stud was often a fix for a damaged original attaching stud and is often made a a different material than the original steel stud
Original stud, retaining and cable nut in the lower right
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/14/6-010121000930.jpeg)
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Thanks Jeff! I am used to finding either a C8 or D2 number stamped in the case so I figured it had some kind of replacement starter.
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Well I took the no name starter apart. The bushings were severely worn and the armature was deeply grooved. So I decided it was a good core. I ordered a NAPA premium rebuilt starter for $61.49. It turned out to be a wise investment.
The NAPA unit is a C9AF Autolite part with a 9A20 date code and the earlier style smooth nose piece. It will look a lot better with a coat of semi flat enamel.
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The full date code is 9A20B.
The Autolite engraving is faint.
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Well I took the no name starter apart. The bushings were severely worn and the armature was deeply grooved. So I decided it was a good core. I ordered a NAPA premium rebuilt starter for $61.49. It turned out to be a wise investment.
The NAPA unit is a C9AF Autolite part with a 9A20 date code and the earlier style smooth nose piece. It will look a lot better with a coat of semi flat enamel.
Over all the parts look much better. The assemblyline starters had a square drive shape in the case barrel section but the other parts look good. Remember to put a gasket under the Bendix cover and also under the band clamp in the back before spraying with the semi gloss black. From the factory the paint was feathered towards the nose end side so that the mounting flange had a good ground. No taped lines.
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Bob if you look close it has a thick gasket under the Bendix cover and a thinner gasket under the clamp. The core had square drive screws but they were too tight for my air impact, apparently rusted solid. I plan to cap the + terminal and spray it with semi flat black making sure to not paint the mating flange area.
Over all the parts look much better. The assembly line starters had a square drive shape in the case barrel section but the other parts look good. Remember to put a gasket under the Bendix cover and also under the band clamp in the back before spraying with the semi gloss black. From the factory the paint was feathered towards the nose end side so that the mounting flange had a good ground. No taped lines.
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On the brush holder there are 4 pop rivets where the rebuilder took out the factory rivets and replaced the holder and gasket.
I've had success filling them and repainting them so that the rivets look correctly smooth.
It is on the end most visible to judges.
I have some of the square screws if you need them. Drop me a PM.
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Bob if you look close it has a thick gasket under the Bendix cover and a thinner gasket under the clamp. The core had square drive screws but they were too tight for my air impact, apparently rusted solid. I plan to cap the + terminal and spray it with semi flat black making sure to not paint the mating flange area.
I see the gasket on the cover but don't see anything under the band clamp .If it is there then it isn't like original because there are empty gaps I see around where the clamp meets and around the terminal stud that typically sticks out and is visible.Yes, no pop rivets were used on the end piece like has been mentioned. Painted the starter will look fine for most purposes without further work. It is a matter of your expectations. At least discussing some of the issues allows you to pick and choose what makes the best sense to work on.