ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Processes, Products & Techniques => Topic started by: 68 GT on March 30, 2021, 08:11:52 PM
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I've seen and have been suggested that Evapo-Rust is good for cleaning rusty parts for restoration. For doing large items such as leaf springs or coil springs, what are you guys soaking items that large in to be able to submerge them in the Evapo-Rust? I understand that this method of cleaning up rusty parts can be better than sand blasting, in some instances.
Still trying to determine if I want to restore my leaf & coil springs or replace them with ones from Eaton.
Thanks!!
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For de rusting leaf springs, I have used a section of 4" diameter pvc tubing with a tube cap attached to one end (creating a vertical "tank"). The tube length can be anything that you want it to be but I made it at least 3" longer than one half of the length of the longest spring leaf. You can flip the spring leaf over when half has been de rusted. You de rust one spring leaf at a time.
For coil springs, find a can or some type of plastic container that is large enough in diameter to accommodate the coil. If you can't find anything deep enough to cover the entire spring length, you can use the one half at a time concept as well.
I hope this helps.
Frank
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Guys have mentioned using sections of rain gutter capped at ends, pvc tubing, wood framed lined with a plastic sheet as all possible ways to contain the liquid and the long thin spring leaves while for coil springs different sized buckets and trash cans
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Thank you both! Nice to know you can just do 1/2 at at time! Didn't know if by doing that if you could tell a difference or not. And you don't have to use as much Evapo-Rust either. Seems it would take a lot to cover an entire coil spring, I like the idea of doing 1/2 at a time.
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All I can say is ebay search for citric acid. Buy a 10 lb bag for less than evaporust delivered. Then large plastic trash can and your set. A couple cups powder and 30-40 gallons of water in trash can 24-48 hours then flip and repeat. Amazing results just by washing with green scratch pad like scrubbing a dish pan. I did my rear end housing on a winter weekend in unheated garage. Amazing results, no fumes, no chemicals no gloves, eyepro etc... Degreased and derusted. And I still have most of the bag of citric acid left to do other parts. I'll never buy evaporust again.
Dan
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Dan, I'm guessing that the stuff you like strips paint also.
One thing that I like about evapo-rust is that it doesn't unless you soak it allot longer than need be. Never had it do it - just reports from others
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I tried citric acid in my 20 gallon tub with mixed results. Even had a heater going in the solution. I would say it's ok, but results aren't as quick or as nice as evapo-rust.
To soak leaf springs, build a frame with 2x4 or 2x6 boards. Lay down a couple layers of heavy mil plastic and then pour evapo-rust in with the springs.
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We have a local restoration company Auburn Cord Duesenberg that does custom blasting. I took my leaf springs to them, they used a wet bead blasting technique. They charge $60 per hour so it is quite reasonable.
You get better results by removing the factory leaf clamps first. I take the springs to be re - arched and rebuilt at Tulsa Spring company. The springs get new plastic slip pads on reassembly. Then I can do metal finishing. Finally install new spring clamps from Dead Nuts On.
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Gents,
Points acknowledged, I wont argue that Evaporust is not good.
Citirc Acid did not take off any paint on my items. It just took off all the rust, dirt and grime and grease/oil. I was not in a rush so I just let it sit in there 24-48 hours.
No fuss no muss no chemicals and especially no budget buster since Evaporust is not cheap. I had great results on everything I put in it from brackets, pulleys, coil springs, rear end, brake backing plates etc...
I was only limited by the size of plastic trash can I had. In the distant future I am going to take my leaf springs apart and do the same process.
However you go I wish you the best results possible.
I want to thank all the members that put me onto Citric Acid in other posts. You all saved me a fortune in time and materials.
Dan
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What is the ratio of powder/water used for citric acid?
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That blue trash can in the pic had 2 to 3 cups powder and 30-40 gallons of water if memory recalls correctly. Not heated just tap water in the winter in unheated garage. I made sure it was stirred and dissolved well before putting parts and I pulled the rear end out a couple of times during process out of curiosity to see how it was working.
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That's interesting about the citric acid. I just checked with Eaton Springs, their springs come painted 🤪 Which is fine for the coils, but sounds like I would need to disassemble a brand new leaf pack, somehow strip the paint and reassemble. Wish Eaton's came natural..... Decisions, decisions...restore what I have or buy new Eaton's knowing I'll have to strip the paint from the leafs......
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That's interesting about the citric acid. I just checked with Eaton Springs, their springs come painted 🤪 Which is fine for the coils, but sounds like I would need to disassemble a brand new leaf pack, somehow strip the paint and reassemble. Wish Eaton's came natural..... Decisions, decisions...restore what I have or buy new Eaton's knowing I'll have to strip the paint from the leafs......
They used to offer unpainted for an upcharge... which seems completely backwards.
I've stripped a couple sets, is not a pleasant experience. The stuff they paint with is very thick and hard to get off with regular brush-on paint stripper.
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That blue trash can in the pic had 2 to 3 cups powder and 30-40 gallons of water if memory recalls correctly. Not heated just tap water in the winter in unheated garage. I made sure it was stirred and dissolved well before putting parts and I pulled the rear end out a couple of times during process out of curiosity to see how it was working.
Thanks. My 20 gallon setup, I was not seeing any results after a couple days and no heat. Poured the entire contents of one of the packs in there and got a heater going. Only marginal results in my opinion. Oh well.
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Seems worth asking Eaton if they offer unpainted leaf springs. Thanks for the tip!
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Just got an email back from Eaton, they do not off unpainted leaf springs for Mustangs☹️
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I just tried the Evaporust web site and got a unsafe site message. Be advised.
The reason I went to the site was to see if one of their "how to" segments was still there. But with the "red alert" - here's what I remember - they showed the frame of a pickup truck (brand "D") getting the Evaporust treatment by using a spray bottle with Evaporust (diluted or concentrate?) and a wire brush on the affected area. I guess it would work but would take longer.
There are "options".
Jim
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There is a old mechanics trick to keep a packet of grape or lemon kool aid in the tool box to remove rust in a pinch. Mix up a paste or more diluted to soak with grape of lemon Kool Aid. The citric acid in the ingredients eats rust. Not the best but one of those things that works somewhat in a pinch .
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Just got an email back from Eaton, they do not off unpainted leaf springs for Mustangs☹️
To remove the paint they shot peened mine while I waited (I?m local) It was an extra fee.
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The Harbor Freight by me sells Evaporust gel for use on things that you can't dip. It pretty much stays where you put it. More expensive than wet bead blasting so it's not something I generally use.
RE: Eaton Detroit springs, I have had very mixed results with their springs. Got a set of leafs for a '67 390GT Mustang, they sagged by a couple inches in less than a year. Eaton Detroit replaced them under warranty but that didn't pay for the labor and down time. Two other sets of leaf springs from Eaton Detroit were way too high and had to be re - arched to get them to the stock ride height. So far none that were great right out of the box.
For me the cheapest and best option is usually original stuff that can be restored.
I just tried the Evaporust web site and got a unsafe site message. Be advised.
The reason I went to the site was to see if one of their "how to" segments was still there. But with the "red alert" - here's what I remember - they showed the frame of a pickup truck (brand "D") getting the Evaporust treatment by using a spray bottle with Evaporust (diluted or concentrate?) and a wire brush on the affected area. I guess it would work but would take longer.
There are "options".
Jim
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Yikes, I thought that Eaton's were the way to go, for a reproduction spring anyways..... I don't know if I need to get my original leaf springs re-arched or not. When we started to restore the car, the engine, trans, hood, fenders and such was already removed from the car. So I don't know what the ride height was like before we started. And, I didn't even think about measuring the ride height anyway.