ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Drivetrain => Topic started by: carlite65 on May 15, 2021, 06:29:50 PM
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my sig car 65 2+2 with 289-2bbl carb keeps leaking/flooding. i have installed 2 new floats, 2 new needle/seats, 3 new power valves with fresh gaskets and one new accelerator pump. it started and ran fine 2 days ago. today it floods again upon startup. can old/bad gas cause the gaskets to quickly deteriorate? they looked good when removed.
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I assume you have a 2100, so did you install the spring, 9F570 in the drawing, that wraps around the float hinge pin?
Jim
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1) Did you inspect and adjust "wet" fuel level after replacing the float? Ford intended actual fuel level to the the standard for proper fuel level calibration. Dry float settings were included in service settings only as a starting point. With all original needle valve and brass baffle washer parts Ford intended the engine to be fully warmed up and running at idle to inspect actual fuel level. Most modern replacement needle valves do not allow the use of the O.E. baffle washer. WITHOUT THE WASHER YOU DO NOT WANT TO START THE ENGINE AS FUEL CAN SPRAY OUT OF THE CARBURETOR QUITE A WAY. With modern valves the best you can do usually is full warm up the engine, shut it down, remove the carburetor cover, and do the fuel level inspection. If a change is required (bend the float tab up or down as required) you must reinstall the cover, run the engine a little, shut the engine down, and inspect again. Yes, it is tedious.
2) What is the fuel pressure entering the carburetor? Many 1960s Fords were built to handle 4 to 6 psig of fuel pressure to the carburetor. Remanufactured pumps and aftermarket pumps could get a 12 psig (or more) diaphragm assembly. If fuel is being pushed at anything above 6 psig there is a risk of over powering the inlet needle valve. A co-worker with a 1965 Mustang 200 I6 engine had his Ford pump fail. He bought a "will fit" pump at a parts store. The carburetor became more like a lawn sprinkler than a fuel control device. I asked him to check his fuel pressure. He found something like 14 psig (on his gauge). I suggested that he either get a correct factory pump rebuilt to factory specifications or install an adjustable pressure reduction valve or regulator and set the output to 5 psig. He installed a pressure reduction valve and set the delivery pressure to 5 psig and all was well again.
3) I did not see a mention of how the choke system is working. A friend drove his car to my home one weekend for me see what was wrong with his carburetor. The engine was barely running on a ultra rich air fuel ratio. The problem was the choke was fully closed and non-functional. A prior owner had installed an electric choke conversion and the wire had become disconnected somewhere behind the instrument panel. No power, no choke operation, worse, it stayed closed all the time. I ran a temporary ignition on power wire for him until he could find the disconnect and presto all was just fine again.
4) Have you checked to make sure no foreign material is fouling the inlet valve. It is not rare to find a tiny sliver of rubber from a rubber fuel line inside a valve. If the trash is too big to pass through it can sometimes fall back and be out of the way and sometime get caught between needle and seat. A tiny bit of debris in the valve can cause on again off again flooding problems.
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Had a similar experience with my stock 4100 a while back. After some fussing around it turned out to be the float level. End result was the floats got set at a lower level than the shop manual and carb rebuild kit suggested. About 5/8"+ down from the top of the bowel. As Dan mentioned it took repeated adjusments to get it right and yes tedious. Brian
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yes a 2100. i do not have the damper spring. carb has been fine until i let car sit for most of the year w/o running. fuelpump was rebuilt by fred ballard about 2-3 years age. car ran flawless then. float levels are to spec and the choke is functioning fine. carb is surgically clean. funny thing is we also have a '66 coupe that is also giving carb trouble. i'm thinking i need to pump out the old gas get some fresh and add a stabilizer....thanks for the ideas.
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Guessing you checked the float to make sure it wasn't filled up with gas also...
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oh yeah. first thing i looked into.
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When first starting a 2100/4100 just hook the choke arm without the clip, insert one small screw in a few turns to index the top and the big center bolt, snug. That's all that's needed to start and fill the bowl. You don't need to have all the screws in.
You can also kill the ignition and crank with the lid off to fill the bowls.
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When measuring the "wet" fuel level float height, the 1966 Ford shop manual actually says to do it with the cover off, Page 10-10 step 6. Step 5 says to let the engine idle for several minutes with the cover in place, no screws attached, remove the cover, while the engine is idling, then proceed to step 6 to measure. All of this is done with the engine up to operating temperature. I've done this and its pretty easy, getting the proper fuel level made my engine run a lot better.
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agreed on your point. today i pumped a little less than 10 gals. of very smelly fuel out of the tank. there now should be less than 2 gal in it. i plan to add some fuel stabilizer to a fresh 5 gals and see what occurs. the age/type of fuel is the only thing both cars have in common.
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I have not got that far with my K code, would it be possible to have carb top off and hook up electric low PSI pump to fresh source to do a visual of what is going on in bowl's, just a quick thought?
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I was at a local carb builder's shop last year and he set up a pair of Holley floats just that way.
I would never start a rebuilt carb the first time with the lid off as a lean backfire could really ruin your day.
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just added 5 gal of fresh shell 89 grade + 1 oz. fuel stablilizer. ran for 40 minutes. no flooding, no stink, no leaks...........so far.......will drive a bit & see how it does.