ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Processes, Products & Techniques => Topic started by: preaction on February 04, 2022, 09:03:54 PM
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Has anyone found a "better idea" for removing the stainless steel drip rail moulding from a fastback body without damaging this part ? It seems their easily damaged.
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I use a 3/8 x 3/4 x 10-inch piece of oak using it as a punch from the inside of the car at an end slowly taping at the bottom edge of the molding. It is important to work slowly and with light taps.
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Marty's idea works for sure but we all stumble onto different ways to skin a cat.
I found an odd Craftsman wrench set that someone "gifted" me with was ideal. These wrenches have an odd open end side that works somewhat like a ratchet wrench. This end of the wrench has somewhat of a "hook" on it, it looks something similar to a Iine wrench or crows foot. I believe I used a 14mm size of this type of wrench (maybe 13mm)
Using the hook to grab the underside lip of the molding, laying a paint stir stick along the molding for protection, I could work the edge loose, inch by inch and as you progress, taking longer bites to as much as 6 inch progressions.
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Richard I think I have one of those wrenches. I will have to try that. It would work better if the roof rail seal was still in place.
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I use a bottle opener that has duct tape inside the business end. I cut off the opposite end that is made to punch holes in oil cans. Oil cans are not made that way any more!
Start at the front twisting the trim to remove it. Once a foot or so comes off the remainder comes off easily.
You only need the bottle opener for the first few inches - first foot. Replace the tape often.
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I use a bottle opener that has duct tape inside the business end. I cut off the opposite end that is made to punch holes in oil cans. Oil cans are not made that way any more!
Start at the front twisting the trim to remove it. Once a foot or so comes off the remainder comes off easily.
You only need the bottle opener for the first few inches - first foot. Replace the tape often.
+1 ,but instead of tape I use a piece of thin wooden paint stir stick to cushion between the pop opener and the trim .
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Thanks for all of the replys very good ideas much better than mine.
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+1 ,but instead of tape I use a piece of thin wooden paint stir stick to cushion between the pop opener and the trim .
Same for me. This is in my small junkyard grab bag when I'm travelling light. I've pulled off maybe 50 sets of drip rail from all types of cars.
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Going to move this over to the Processes, Products & Techniques section so more years and owners can benefit. Will change the title of the original post just a little
Also an earlier thread with a U Tube link to a paint stick method
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=15011.msg93538#msg93538 (https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=15011.msg93538#msg93538)
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I use a bottle opener that has duct tape inside the business end. I cut off the opposite end that is made to punch holes in oil cans. Oil cans are not made that way any more!
But 24 oz tomato juice cans (the juice is a major requirement in preparing a "Bloody Mary") are made that way and that size can, cleaned, with the the top removed, 8 to 12 holes punched on the bottom with the old business end of a "church key" for drain holes, used in conjunction with a 10 pound coffee can with top removed, and then filled with a solvent, make an excellent parts rinsing combination.
Jim
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Going to move this over to the Processes, Products & Techniques section so more years and owners can benefit. Will change the title of the original post just a little
Also an earlier thread with a U Tube link to a paint stick method
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=15011.msg93538#msg93538 (https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=15011.msg93538#msg93538)
The "referenced" vehicle is featured in many "Flintstones" "documentaries". It features the "no floor" option for "foot power" motion.
Jim
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The "referenced" vehicle is featured in many "Flintstones" "documentaries". It features the "no floor" option for "foot power" motion.
Jim
Apparently that does not rule it out as an example to demonstrate the technique on :)
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FWIW:
NPD has a newer line of moldings that actually fit if you need replacements. Confirmed for my 67 Coupe at least in year 2020.