ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Drivetrain => Topic started by: Angela on January 22, 2023, 04:38:43 PM
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Could someone please educate me on how the correct hardware to be used with plastic linkage bushings VS the bronze bushings? I don't like the excessive loose fit of the bronze bushings, but I do like that they are retained by a circlip.
I've read the plastic bushings (blue in the example below) offer a much tighter linkage. However, does use of the plastic bushing require a different trunnion (silver piece in the image below)? There's no clip used with the plastic bushing and through experiment I am not convinced the linkage will stay in place during use.
I know very little about these parts and would appreciate input, advice and some pictures if possible. Many thanks!
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Looks like your using a factory shifter body with aftermarket linkage.... The factory shift rods don't use clips, they have a groove that locks into the ridge inside the blue bushing. You can't use the aftermarket brass or steel bushings with the factory shifter as the holes are too large in the shifter arms... You'll have to either locate a set of factory rods use an aftermarket shifter body. Original ones will be tought to find but here's a repro set ....
https://www.kickdownrods.com/shop/1970-1973-mustang-4-speed-toploader-shift-rod-set-original-hurst-style
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Thanks for taking the time to educate me. I am embarrassed that I had not realized the rods were incorrect and I paid good money for them.
Thanks also for the link to the reproduction rod set!
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In 1970, didn't Ford use the Hurst shift tree in Mustang and other lines, straight from the factory? My present application is a 1970 Mach1 and in that case, wouldn't the aftermarket Hurst rods work with the "factory/hurst" shift tree?
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Thats an aftermarket hurst shifter. You can tell by the two stop bolts at the front and rear of the main housing. The factory Ford version in 69 onwards did not have the stop bolts as far as I am aware.
No doubt it can and will work with a toploader, but its not the same as a Ford factory Hurst shifter. The Ford version also had brown poly bushings (like those blue ones in your photos) & steel pins at either end of the shift rods between the shifter mechanism and the toploader shift levers, I guess to isolate NVH from the transmission to the shifter mechanism. The rods were not adjustable.
You are also missing the bracket at the back of the shifter body (see attached photo) to which the reverse backup light switch attaches. Yours just has a saddle spacer.
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Here is a comparison between a 1970 factory installed hurst shifter vs an aftermarket unit that was also available at that same time period. You can see the 3 fingers on the shifter boxes have different bends and lengths. The holes for the linkages are also different with the aftermarket having a 1/2? hole and the factory unit having a slightly larger 17/32? hole to accommodate the soft bushing. The factory hurst rod ends have a grove cut in them as a locking mechanism on the soft bushing. Aftermarket hurst rod ends are designed to have a locking clip to hold them in place.
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Thanks for the pictures and education. I knew nothing about the 4-speed shifter and trusted the "acquaintance" I bought it from. Man did I ever get taken advantage of on this particular purchase.
It looks like I can either use everything I bought, albeit aftermarket, or start all over again and find factory parts. I'd prefer the latter, but dang I have a lot of cash tied up in the shifter box, rods and chrome shifter arm and Hurst handle. From the photos above, it looks like even the chrome arm is different between factory ford and aftermarket Hurst. Ugh.
For a '70 428 application, what year range, PNs or other help could anyone suggest, as far as searching for parts to replace what I have now?
Thanks.
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It would be helpful if you post a picture of all the shifter parts that you have. It?s hard to tell for sure but it looks like the handle assembly could possibly be a factory part stuck on an aftermarket shifter box.
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Here's a picture of the shifter base, arm and linkages I bought.
Based on what I read above, it sounds like what I have is completely incorrect, yet could be used in my '70 428 application.
I would prefer factory correct parts, yet I have a lot invested in these Hurst parts and thus would appreciate feedback concerning pros/cons of using what I have VS locating other parts.
Thanks!
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I can confirm that these are all aftermarket parts.
If your going to used factory parts first you need to verify that you have the correct tailhousing for a 1970 428 Toploader. The tailhousing should have part number D0ZR-7A040-A. The correct rods are part numbers
1st/2nd D0ZA-7328-C with lever 0ZR-03C
3rd/4th D0ZA-7326-E with lever 0ZR-02B
Reverse D0ZA-7B112-D 0ZR-197A or could be blank
Shifter mounting bracket is part number D0ZA-7E046-F
Steering column lock rod is part number D0ZA-7E330-S
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A couple comments here with photos.
The tail housing for the transmission for a 1970 Boss 302 can be either a C4ZR-7A040-A or a DOZR-7A040-A. These photos here are from a June 1970 built original Boss 302 transmission which happens to be the C4 example:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52661509137_bbd274785c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oevZY6)20230131_212252 (https://flic.kr/p/2oevZY6) by Marcus Anghel (https://www.flickr.com/photos/154714213@N02/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52661509127_94300787db_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oevZXV)20230131_212301 (https://flic.kr/p/2oevZXV) by Marcus Anghel (https://www.flickr.com/photos/154714213@N02/), on Flickr
Pictures of the correct levers:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52661509152_385be2097f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oevZYm)20230131_204250 (https://flic.kr/p/2oevZYm) by Marcus Anghel (https://www.flickr.com/photos/154714213@N02/), on Flickr
Correct shifter rods with engineering numbers stamped on each:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52662452400_62fd62e80d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oeAQnf)20230131_212407 (https://flic.kr/p/2oeAQnf) by Marcus Anghel (https://www.flickr.com/photos/154714213@N02/), on Flickr
Reverse lockout rod:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52662009161_c05f6e9ce0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oeyyBc)20230131_212435 (https://flic.kr/p/2oeyyBc) by Marcus Anghel (https://www.flickr.com/photos/154714213@N02/), on Flickr
Shifter mounting bracket which I have seen with engineering number DOZA-7E046-F or DOZA-7E046-E:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52662295369_d07b92d797_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oeA2FP)20230131_212236 (https://flic.kr/p/2oeA2FP) by Marcus Anghel (https://www.flickr.com/photos/154714213@N02/), on Flickr
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As far as the factory Ford/Hurst installed shifters they all have a way to mount the reverse light switch where the aftermarket units dont have that. Thats what I remember being the main quick visual reference to spot one.
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Hurst did provide a bracket to mount the factory style backup switch to the aftermarket shifter. I doubt it looks like what was on an original 1970 Ford/Hurst shifter but just a heads up that it is possible to install the switch on either style.
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Thanks for all the help guys! Lacking knowledge with this part, I way, way over-paid. It's sad that some people lie and take advantage of others while misrepresenting items.
Moving forward, yes, I have the correct 4-spd tail shaft housing. I will begin looking for factory correct parts and am grateful for the PNs provided above! Is there a PN for the factory chrome plated Hurst shift lever?
Thanks.
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Here is what a correct chrome Hurst shifter handle for 1970 would look like. Numbers stamped on there are 7275. You also have a flat spot on top of the handle where the set screw for the shifter T handle is set in place.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52663226896_450301513f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oeENAC)20230201_100950 (https://flic.kr/p/2oeENAC) by Marcus Anghel (https://www.flickr.com/photos/154714213@N02/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52663720753_af54c95454_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oeHkpp)20230201_100957 (https://flic.kr/p/2oeHkpp) by Marcus Anghel (https://www.flickr.com/photos/154714213@N02/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52662726382_36657ed2a1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oeCeP5)20230201_101012 (https://flic.kr/p/2oeCeP5) by Marcus Anghel (https://www.flickr.com/photos/154714213@N02/), on Flickr
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Here is one thats from a small block. Only the mounting bracket and reverse rod are different on the bog block. Mounting brackets are available in reproduction not sure about the reverse rod. This one is about as cheap as you will find posted on the internet for sale.
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Here is one thats from a small block. Only the mounting bracket and reverse rod are different on the bog block. Mounting brackets are available in reproduction not sure about the reverse rod. This one is about as cheap as you will find posted on the internet for sale.
FYI Jay Cushman is a well known parts vendor specializing in ford performance parts that has been around for decades.
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Thank you! I will give Jay a call today.
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Thanks again for everyone's help. I picked up the parts (above) from Jay.
I now need to locate D0ZA-7B112-D and a 0ZR-03C bracket.
Admittedly being unfamiliar with these parts, can anyone recommend their favorite resource for disassembly and rebuilding of these shifter mechanisms? I see that Holley has a rebuild document for the aftermarket Hurst shifter assy., but thus far I haven't seen a similar document published for the Ford OEM parts.
Thanks!
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Go to this website, they are an authorized rebuild-er for OEM hurst shifters
https://www.shifterdoc.com/HurstRebuildForm.pdf
70-Conv_4sp (Cougar, XR7}
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Also - This is a company that reproduces many factory transmission shifter mechanism, both Automatic and manual etc...,
just in case no one has mentioned them before.
https://www.kickdownrods.com/
70-Conv_4sp