ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1967 Shelby => Topic started by: kkupec02 on August 18, 2024, 01:10:36 PM
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I can see the upper starter bolt from the top through the engine compartment with little to no access and I can get my hand in to feel it from the bottom under the car with little to no access, but the bolt is tucked way under the stock exhaust manifold. I am sure others have wrestled with this problem before. Any recommendations on how to get to this top bolt with a tool? Thanks. I am putting in a high rpm starter to cure my hot start problem. Next will be fitment since the higher rpm starter looks bigger than the original and the starter cavity has coolant lines running along it also.
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I use a 1/2 inch hex socket, 3/8 inch drive, with a 3/8 inch universal joint, a long 3/8 inch extension and a ratchet. To keep the universal joint from "flopping" around to much, I wrap a piece of duct tape around it. Shrink tubing works (sometimes) too.
Jim
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I use 1/4 drive socket,extension(one or more) and ratchet. I sometimes will use a piece of electrical tape to hold the bolt in the socket but only a small section. I only want the bolt held until it starts to thread. Too much tape will hold the socket to the bolt causing it to seperate from the extension when you try to disengage.
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Since you said the one you got looks bigger I have to ask did you get the gear reduced starter or the stock looking one that is supposed to be heavy duty?
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I sometimes will use a piece of electrical tape to hold the bolt in the socket but only a small section.
I've used strip caulk or plumbers putty with moderate success for the same purpose.
Jim
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I've used strip caulk or plumbers putty with moderate success for the same purpose.
Jim
Yep .
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So I guess you are both getting it from the top ie the engine compartment? Bob, I got the one that you sent the link on, the higher rpm one.
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The gear reduced starter, the non stock looking one. It may fit, didn't get that far yet, but it looks bigger?
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The gear reduced starter, the non stock looking one. It may fit, didn't get that far yet, but it looks bigger?
You have different bolt patterns in the portion that bolts to the bellhousing . You may have to adjust the starter motor section in relation to that bolt pattern to get optimum clearance for headers etc.
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Really long "wobble" extension.
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Really long "wobble" extension.
Of course after you have disconnected the battery. Really hate the sparks from the cable post on the starter when the extension make contact with it during the process of taking the starter in or out ::)
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Of course after you have disconnected the battery. Really hate the sparks from the cable post on the starter when the extension make contact with it during the process of taking the starter in or out ::)
Actually, don't disconnect the cable. How else are novices going to learn without a lot of sparks and such.
Jim
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Of course after you have disconnected the battery. Really hate the sparks from the cable post on the starter when the extension make contact with it during the process of taking the starter in or out ::)
The post on the Ford starter is dead unless the solenoid is currently (ha!) engaged.
But if you are trying to get a long extension down there you are awfully close to the battery.
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The post on the Ford starter is dead unless the solenoid is currently (ha!) engaged.
But if you are trying to get a long extension down there you are awfully close to the battery.
Sorry memories of 429's creeping and blurring with others :-\
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I'm only rattling chains because I'm working on that circuit for my modified car. Battery in the back; solenoid in the back; 2 ga starter wire only hot during crank. Plus an alarm system that interrupts the crank signal.
Barely back on topic, since I'm getting old and lazy, I've found that the Milwaukee M12 (the Fuel is a more powerful version) 1/4 drive or even their 3/8 is perfect for this kind of stuff. It's about the length of a Snap-on swivel head although much larger in diameter.
Sometimes a long extension is a pain to maneuver around so stick the socket on a shorter wobble extension, get it on the bolt head, and then insert a standard extension into that one to get to the needed length. On the SBF you just need to get forward of the motor mount with the ratchet.
And remember that the Alternator post is always hot, so disconnecting the battery is still a good idea.