ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Drivetrain => Topic started by: Ivygreen65 on September 13, 2011, 10:06:44 PM
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I wanted to do a quick thread on how I restored my 8" differential. I see a lot of cars that claim to have a restored 3rd member, while all someone has done is give it a quick spray with Rustoleum red oxide, and voila. I restored mine using rattle cans, but I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out and it's a project that anyone can do and really upgrade the quality of your car's rear end.
(http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL847/1785303/3437215/398467236.jpg)
I began by getting my existing diff cleaned and degreased. That was a major job in itself. I took good photographs of what markings I found, including measurements. If you have any rust on the machined areas, now is the time to sand that off. After you've got it clean and ready to paint, then the masking starts.
(http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL847/1785303/3437215/398467239.jpg)
I used Rustoleum satin Heritage Red to paint the body of the pumpkin. This color seems to match the original red oxide pretty closely in both shade and sheen. I've seen many of them painted with spray can red primer, which is too brown and flat (IMO). You can see what the original color of red oxide is when you look at the backside of the pumpkin, which has been sealed inside the rear end housing.
(http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL847/1785303/3437215/398467238.jpg)
After the body is painted, I moved to the machined area of the carrier. For this area, I used Rustoleum Professional Stainless Steel. It provides a fairly realistic look of machined iron. You've got to be sure to note that this flat machined area turns upward, and that lip should also be natural. The tooling marks make the machined areas obvious. The bolts are phosphate/oil, and after being caked in leaking rear lube for years, mine just needed a good cleaning.
(http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL847/1785303/3437215/398467237.jpg)
Next, I refinished the yoke and collar. I used Duplicolor Cast Iron engine enamel for the yoke. For the collar, I used Krylon matte Metallic Aluminum.
(http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL847/1785303/3437215/398467240.jpg)
The detail that I see most people overlook are the machined areas. I used the Rustoleum Stainless Steel for the machined areas on the lower section of the pumpkin and the machined holes (I'm assuming for balancing) on the yoke. This is the detail that, I think, sets the restoration apart.
The last step is to replace any markings that were found upon cleaning and disassembly.
One last detailing point is with regard to the gasket. The readily available Felpro gasket is bigger than the footprint of the pumpkin. I placed mine on the pumpkin, traced the outline of the pumpkin, and then trimmed it to the same shape. I then colored the outside edge with a black sharpie to replicate the color of the original black Ford gasket.
While I'm in no way comparing this restoration to the work of others, who take the time to totally dismantle the pumpkin, correctly epoxy paint and re-machine surfaces, and re-plate the appropriate pieces, I do think that this type of work is well within the realm of almost anyone who wants to spend a little time and effort to upgrade the detail level of their car.
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Nice effort and thanks for sharing
Is that a little red overspray on the yoke ? ;) Sure if it is it will be gone quickly - keep up the good work
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Is that a little red overspray on the yoke ?
It was.
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Excellent post, great work and thanks for sharing.
Had a giggle to myself with the formation of the 1 on the pumpkin itself. looks like someone was following company procedure and making it very clear and legible. others i have seen are not legible and just look like a youngster had applied them.
Making it really tough to apply back on a restored concours car.
regards.
PHILL BERESFORD.
MELBOURNE.
AUSTRALIA.
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Phill,
I am almost of the opinion that the 1 on the top was put on originally with a stamp. It was very uniform, unlike the other markings. You can see a little of it in the first picture. I replicated as exactly as I could.
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Had a giggle to myself with the formation of the 1 on the pumpkin itself. looks like someone was following company procedure and making it very clear and legible. others i have seen are not legible and just look like a youngster had applied them....
Agreed - normally we see a different number in that location and as mentioned no where as neat. Doubt it was a stamp - sort of an odd font for that time period if so. Whom ever number #1 (maybe since we don't see that number often he was a boss or something filling in ;) he was sure proud of that number LOL
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The light blue '65 GT convertible I restored 5 or so years ago had a '2' in that area, rather neatly written too. May '65 Dearborn car, A code 4 speed.
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Just a addition to this interesting thread is before installing the 3rd member don't forget to replicate the machined surface of the rear end housing itself. The flat surface where the gasket is installed is a machined surface and not all of it is covered by the gasket. While you at it the studs that protrude from the rear end housing should be zinc phosphate or color instead of black like they so often are mistakenly painted. :) Bob
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Mine is a June 65 Dearborn C code C4 car.
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Ivygreen, the photo is my 66 coupe I restored in 1990. I used almost the same procedure that you did with spray can paints. I don't remember the brand(too long ago) of the paint. It has survived 21 years in concours driven. Been caught in the rain many times. If done properly these finishes will hold up pretty well. Your pumpkin looks great and will probably hold up well for a long time too.
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Stacy-
Sorry to bring up an old thread but can you repost your pictures?
Thanks,
Greg
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What's the best media to use to recreate the markings. I found this yellow/orange 3 that I'd like to recreate to finish off my axle. Everyday grease pens? Paint pens?
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What's the best media to use to recreate the markings. I found this yellow/orange 3 that I'd like to recreate to finish off my axle. Everyday grease pens? Paint pens?
Some enamel paint mixed to match the original color and a small size brush just like originally done. I've used small acid brushes for these for decades. Like the ones available in bulk at Harbor Freight.
You might, if this is the only mark you are going to do, get by with a little Testor model paint in the little jar. They have an orange that should be pretty close. General marking, colors and methods are covered in the article in the Library about general paint marks but guess you've already seen and read that article.
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You might, if this is the only mark you are going to do, get by with a little Testor model paint in the little jar. They have an orange that should be pretty close. General marking, colors and methods are covered in the article in the Library about general paint marks but guess you've already seen and read that article.
Thanks and this library once again is amazing as a resource.
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Almost done. Its not perfect but I'm pretty happy how far it's come since dropping it especially with it being my first rear axle restoration. Thanks to everyone for their help along the way.
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Almost done. Its not perfect but I'm pretty happy how far it's come since dropping it especially with it being my first rear axle restoration. Thanks to everyone for their help along the way.
For others viewing this post want to remind them that its from a 66 Mustang Dearborn C Code car.
Looks like you've done allot of work. Fully understand each of us makes choices about our cars and the restorations. Would offer a couple of suggestions or for others a mention of a few details that are not like originally done in hopes we can help others considering similar restoration projects.
The pinion retainer - where the bolts are located that attach it to the third member - that face of surface would have been bare steel since it was machined after the casting was painted
The original look to the red oxide was an epoxy primer sealer so it would be darker, typically and slightly shinny not flat red oxide looking. IMHO rattle can red oxide is not the way to reproduce the original look and finish.
The original brake lines would have been single crimped and without the solid line on the flex hose. Might want to consider removing the stripe. Easy to do in most cases
Also wanted to mention the rear leaf springs in one of the pictures. Of course the originals would not have any stenciled part or engineering number on them and would not have a finish that looks like what we see in the picture
Like the idea that you didn't paint the surface that the gasket and in turn the third member rest on, on the housing.
The markings look similar to allot of 65-66 8" applications we've seen
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RustOlem Redwood satin is close to the factory color and will be much easier to clean over time. Keep up the good work!
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+1 to the redwood satin. looks good under the car.
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+1 to the redwood satin. looks good under the car.
Were you able to find this in a spray can? I can only find this in a quart on Amazon
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yes. long ago at ace hardware.
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On the picture from Bill Cabaniss the face of the pinion support (piece with 5 bolts attaching it) is unpainted - is that correct? Thanks
It was a section that was machined after the housing was painted so it remains bare machined steel. Machined steel in this case will show machining lines in one direction. You have to sand in one direction or re machine to replicate the look properly.
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On the picture from Bill Cabaniss the face of the pinion support (piece with 5 bolts attaching it) is unpainted - is that correct? Thanks
For that size (8 ") and style of pinion support. Don't believe on that style and location you would find "straight" lines from the machine or process since the center is raised above the machined surfaces. Bob may be recalling the smaller indented surfaces on a 9 inch which were IMHO likely done with the side of cutter rather than the flat surface of one/
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It was a section that was machined after the housing was painted so it remains bare machined steel. Machined steel in this case will show machining lines in one direction. You have to sand in one direction or re machine to replicate the look properly.
...or mount it on a lathe ; a brake lathe at your local parts store or repair shop* will work just fine (leave the old bearing races in).
*may require a little ingenuity on setting up the cutting bit