ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Parts => Topic started by: sparky65 on November 17, 2011, 09:00:49 PM
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Anyone seen or used the reproduction side moldings for the front seats of a 67? How do they compare to originals? Are they made out of the same gauge metal? How do they hold up? My originals are a bit beat up and scratched. I think they could probably be salvaged but I want to know if its worth spending the time on.
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I'm interested in the answers you get Steve as I'm in the same boat with mine. I'd like to use my originals if possible - can anyone comment on how these are "restored". Are they stainless that can be buffed to take care of scratches?
Thanks,
Greg
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I bought a repo pair about 12 years ago for my 67 and was relatively happy with them. However, I'm unable to comment on what is currnetly available.
Dave
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3 years ago when my '65 was restored the seat trim was a problem. the common cheap repro was very bad and my restorer recommended agaist them.
I believe we ended up with Ford originals obtained from NPD, there might be some better ones on the market now, such as a Ford tooling, or quality reproduction fro Scott Drake.......
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So I bought the side moldings from CJ pony parts. Its actually a Scott Drake product C7ZZ-6561616-AR.
Here are my thoughts compared to the ones I have ( I believe, but cant confirm they are original):
1. Finish seems wrong. Mine have a shiny, mirror finish but the repro is more of a satin finish.
2. Some issues with the stamping at the edges. You can see in the pictures the top two outer corners are very sharp. There is a ripple on the inside bend.
If it wasn't for the finish I think I could live with it. The rest of the stamping seems good and the holes line up. I guess I will send these back and try to repair mine unless some one tells me the finish should be satin.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WyGWIAVF2uQ/TuqPbjNWedI/AAAAAAAADA8/tU6Am4VCxDM/s800/DSC01855.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wjXZf-aPCFI/TuqPdNYAckI/AAAAAAAADBA/zDzIcXz81l4/s800/DSC01856.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6yQTIBrf8XA/TuqPe0pEM2I/AAAAAAAADBE/TKt70IV1Ess/s800/DSC01857.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HK1zMuHAv9Q/TuqPgOS76ZI/AAAAAAAADBI/6DQNe2JRJfQ/s800/DSC01858.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Y-ScPr31oAg/TuqPiOdWSGI/AAAAAAAADBM/mbS3Kx8A0vc/s800/DSC01859.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-F0K-2GyzruI/TuqPjqsEqKI/AAAAAAAADBQ/e8TN8PDCLmc/s800/DSC01860.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bs3DhBH-OGI/TuqPm4TEAlI/AAAAAAAADBY/xX2mSWmsI6g/s800/DSC01862.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7UHSTlyIl9A/TuqPofSYx9I/AAAAAAAADBc/Fy1S2tpIG_c/s800/DSC01863.JPG)
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Now you know why the NOS ones go for $75-100 ea.
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I imagine this pieces is anodized as well. Any idea how easy they are to repair. Mine just have a few scratches and small dings. I was going to try to repair them. I am kind of disappointed they went this far to get them right but then skimped on the finish.
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I imagine this pieces is anodized as well. Any idea how easy they are to repair. Mine just have a few scratches and small dings. I was going to try to repair them. I am kind of disappointed they went this far to get them right but then skimped on the finish.
Repairing them will mean taping out the dings (you will likely not get the flat that way) and sanding out the scratches or high spots. This will remove the anodizing in that area making it noticeable :(
Just did this on the window trim on the Cougar I'm playing with. Since it will not be restored I'll live with polished rather than anodized trim. Just not the same
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I understand anodizing as a clear chemical conversion process so that the aluminum doesn't oxidize. This is kind of the same discussion as the rocker moldings. Cant the trim be polished and then use a clear coating for protection. Looking at mine the anodizing is almost perfectly clear I would think you could get the same effect with a clear coat. You would have to remove all the anodizing but I see there are chemicals available for that.
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I imagine this pieces is anodized as well. Any idea how easy they are to repair. Mine just have a few scratches and small dings. I was going to try to repair them. I am kind of disappointed they went this far to get them right but then skimped on the finish.
I just wonder if they didn't know any better and instead of brite dip anodizing (like we were discussing on the other thread) went the regular (cheaper)route which left the finish duller. That is what a shiny 66 Shelby quarter window trim looked like after regular anodizing-dull . The restorer striped off the anodizing re polished and left it bare. I wouldn't be surprised that if the anodizing was chemically striped off the repro seat trim and then the trim brite dip anodized that it wouldn't look like the OEM trim. A lot of trouble just to get it to look right and it may cost more then just buying a NOS service piece. Bob
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I just wonder if they didn't know any better and instead of brite dip anodizing (like we were discussing on the other thread) went the regular (cheaper)route which left the finish duller. That is what a shiny 66 Shelby quarter window trim looked like after regular anodizing-dull . The restorer striped off the anodizing re polished and left it bare. I wouldn't be surprised that if the anodizing was chemically striped off the repro seat trim and then the trim brite dip anodized that it wouldn't look like the OEM trim. A lot of trouble just to get it to look right and it may cost more then just buying a NOS service piece. Bob
I called Drake and at first they said they should be highly polished. Then they called me back and said no that's the way they are made and it sounds like it was a cost decision. Although the person I talked to wasn't sure they were even anodized. Your guess on no bright dip is probably correct. So far Ive not found anyone in the north east that can do bright dip. I stripped the anodizing on the back side of my original and tried polishing it. This is going to take more practice. Aluminum is way to soft and very easy to scratch.
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I called Drake and at first they said they should be highly polished. Then they called me back and said no that's the way they are made and it sounds like it was a cost decision. Although the person I talked to wasn't sure they were even anodized. Your guess on no bright dip is probably correct. So far Ive not found anyone in the north east that can do bright dip. I stripped the anodizing on the back side of my original and tried polishing it. This is going to take more practice. Aluminum is way to soft and very easy to scratch.
There are a number of places that can chemically strip the anodizing off. I would recommend that opposed to sanding especially on aluminum. You can always find some one advertising in the Hemmings "services offered "section that will do brite dip. That is a shame that they didn't do it the right way to begin with. The stamping look very comparable. Keep us posted. Bob
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There are a number of places that can chemically strip the anodizing off. I would recommend that opposed to sanding especially on aluminum.
I tried easy off oven cleaner. Worked well. Sprayed it on let it sit maybe 5-10 mins and then wiped it off. The anodizing came right off.
You can always find some one advertising in the Hemmings "services offered "section that will do brite dip.
I'll take a look.
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I tried easy off oven cleaner. Worked well. Sprayed it on let it sit maybe 5-10 mins and then wiped it off. The anodizing came right off.
I'll take a look.
Thanks. I never would have thought it was that easy or to use that product. I will try that .Bob
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I tried easy off oven cleaner. Worked well. Sprayed it on let it sit maybe 5-10 mins and then wiped it off. The anodizing came right off.
Yes it seems to work fine - had to sand some trim pieces the other day since I didn't have any oven cleaner at the shop :( The spray is allot easier
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Steve- Keep us posted on what you find out. I'm in the same spot as you on these mouldings. Gary :-\
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Well I decided to send them to a place called Chevy's Only advertised in Hemmings. They only wanted $40 each to strip, polish, and bright dip anodized. I would say they turned out ok. They did an excellent job of removing the dings and dents, but I would have liked them to be polished a little bit better. You can see some scratches in the right light. I know they had some trouble with them and had to redo the platting because it came out streaked the first time. For the price though and since they are inside I think they are good. I only really sent them as practice pieces to see how they would do before I sent them the rocker moldings. I think there price was like half of what King of Trim quoted me. Still up in the air now but leaning toward King of Trim for the rockers. Just wish I could find some one on the East coast so I wouldn't have to ship those things so far, but so far no one can do bright dip anodizing on that size around here or they cant be bothered with car parts.
Here are some pictures, the flash kind of exaggerates the marks.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-mqZQKQ8rmvM/T1gESazfviI/AAAAAAAADHg/_lYyibK8xEY/s800/DSC02123.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-q-6cuCsu_b0/T1gEtvMRLfI/AAAAAAAADHo/BpfnSDNyTg0/s800/DSC02119.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--CJBnk6LukU/T1gFGJ7YOmI/AAAAAAAADHw/N9QrShU2geo/s800/DSC02118.JPG)
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no pictures?
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no pictures?
Hmm... I see them. Anyone else not see them?
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I see them (and they are neither blue nor black - see my engine paint comments) and if I may, take another picture outside but not in direct sunlight and without flash, it might be more "natural". In the meantime, I looked at what I have, a pair of very shiny used (no idea where they came from), a pair of aftermarket still in the bag that's marked original Ford tooling that are sort of shiny, and a pair of still in the bag NOS Ford that are almost as shiny (the bag is partially open) as the used. I got pictures but the computer is being nasty.
Jim
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...on a different computer-I see them now. Thanks for posting
Can you see me now? ::)
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I see them (and they are neither blue nor black - see my engine paint comments) and if I may, take another picture outside but not in direct sunlight and without flash, it might be more "natural". In the meantime, I looked at what I have, a pair of very shiny used (no idea where they came from), a pair of aftermarket still in the bag that's marked original Ford tooling that are sort of shiny, and a pair of still in the bag NOS Ford that are almost as shiny (the bag is partially open) as the used. I got pictures but the computer is being nasty.
Jim
Will try to remember this weekend. No they are not blue or black, very shinny, almost chrome like but you can tell there are very fine scratches under the surface.
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Pictures of my "new" hockey sticks. I was getting a few pictures of one of the NFL's best quarterbacks and included one.
1. You can't see the NOS as being that bright but can see the Ford tooling one being dull.
2. The bag cam open a bit on the NOS and it is shiny.
3. Number 16, Joe Montana (and the new stadium is going along just fine).
Jim