ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1966 Shelby => Topic started by: 66mustang on March 12, 2012, 11:56:13 PM
-
Can someone out there tell me what is the correct finish on the throttle bell crank assembly (I believe phosphate), trunk lid striker plate (zinc ?), seat belt bolts (zinc?), trap door catch (zinc), license lamp assembly (zinc?), wire type filler neck hose clamps (zinc?), hinge prop trunk access door (phosphate?), interior under dash light brackets (zinc?), and glove comp. door catch (zinc?). Also, can someone recommend a good rechrome/chrome company to have my quarter wing window frames rechromed? My filler neck was originally lead coated. It does retain a good portion of its original lead finish except for around the area exposed outside of the car. Is there a trick to recoating that area with lead again?
Help is greatly appreciated,
Garry
-
Can someone out there tell me what is the correct finish on the throttle bell crank assembly (I believe phosphate),
If you mean the arm from the pedal to the carb, a light phosphate.
trunk lid striker plate (zinc ?),
Cadmium, but coarse bead blast and zinc as a substitute.
seat belt bolts (zinc?),
If they are the eye bolts, a coarse bead blast and zinc. I have a set out currently to the plater and am interested in how they turned out. Rear are dull gold zinc (aka yellow iridescent).
trap door catch (zinc),
Cadmium, but coarse bead blast and zinc as a substitute.
license lamp assembly (zinc?),
Gold zinc except the rivets are clear zinc.
wire type filler neck hose clamps (zinc?),
Cadmium, but coarse bead blast and zinc as a substitute.
hinge prop trunk access door (phosphate?),
Cadmium, but coarse bead blast and zinc as a substitute. Difficult to do because of the pivot retainer whick is spring steel.
interior under dash light brackets (zinc?),
Clear zinc.
and glove comp. door catch (zinc?).
My Oct 65 San Jose "K" is dark not zinc, so a dark phosphate.
Also, can someone recommend a good rechrome/chrome company to have my quarter wing window frames rechromed?
I'm getting ready to do just that but it depends on where you are.
My filler neck was originally lead coated. It does retain a good portion of its original lead finish except for around the area exposed outside of the car. Is there a trick to recoating that area with lead again?
Try some 0.062 in dia tin-lead solder and a propane torch.
Help is greatly appreciated,
Garry
Does that do it? A light phosphate would be half strength and a max of two minutes in the hot solution, cold water rinse and then oil.
Jim
-
Part of the challenge is that different platers and in different parts of the country use different terms for different plating so "gold zinc" might be "zinc dichromate" elsewhere. "Clear zinc" for "bright zinc" - on and on
Can someone out there tell me what is the correct finish on the throttle bell crank assembly (I believe phosphate), glove comp. door catch (zinc?)
Its same IMHO phosphate and oil finish as the hood hinges - for something to compare to ;)
trunk lid striker plate (zinc ?), trap door catch (zinc), hinge prop trunk access door (phosphate?), interior under dash light brackets (zinc?),
Zinc will do - many parts of the country you can't get cad. Would not heavy blast the item since it will add IMHO too much texture and will not match the original finish. Instead you can flatten the bright zinc with wheel cleaner (read mild acid) moving it around all the time and a little at a time till you get a consistent proper finish
seat belt bolts (zinc?), license lamp assembly (zinc?),
Zinc dichromate front and rear For Mustang seat belts or cad for the eye bolts used with the 3" belts used on 66 Shelby's
wire type filler neck hose clamps (zinc?),
,
If I recall correctly there are two different finishes used but a flattened zinc will do the trick as mentioned above
Also, can someone recommend a good rechrome/chrome company to have my quarter wing window frames rechromed?
My filler neck was originally lead coated. It does retain a good portion of its original lead finish except for around the area exposed outside of the car. Is there a trick to recoating that area with lead again?
As Jim mentioned you might be able to flux and touch up the damaged area or you can recoat the whole thing. One method can be seen in an article posted in our Library here. Down almost to the bottom of the current list.
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=2275.0 (http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=2275.0)
-
Most of the parts that I have seen cadmium plated are fasteners or pieces that need to be resistant to cracking. For instance, locking nuts and washers. Cadmium has a soft silver/dull appearance. The pieces like striker plates and other misc pieces would have been clear zinc plated as it is cheaper and more brilliant. There are variances of zinc depending on the formulation of the solution.
On the filler necks, I prefer hot tin dipping and then have a combination of light blasting and tumbling that I use to get the desired finish.
-
I use the terminology for plating that was used by engineering and production in companys I worked for to reduce the chance of error, and it's also what my current (and previous) plater uses. I know, they know and we keep it simple.
The seat belt eye bolts on three 66 Shelby's I am working on were all clear zinc but over a rough surface that appears to have been forged then machined. The finish was almost like cad but more grey than silver. Fortunetly there was no rust or surface gouges so heavy bead blasting was not necessary. I've had to play blacksmith on some steel parts using a hammer and/or file as a further surface preparation tools. Bead blasting reduces unwanted "pre-treatment" marks.
Keep in mind that many smaller parts delivered to Ford were not packed in felt lined oak cases but delivered in a crate subjected to railroads, truck and forklift operators who dumped parts from large boxes to smaller ones for access. That lack of respect by transportation and assembly line workers for parts for a future concourse grade car is completely disgusting ;)
Jim