ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Body, Paint & Sealers => Topic started by: jtfx6552 on May 02, 2012, 06:38:38 PM
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I'm getting ready to paint the bottom of mine. I have to say it will be real hard to actually cause the drips. If I can't bring myself to do it, would it be a deduction?
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Think sloppy. The assembly line workers were bored, stoned and/or drunk so follow their example and make a drip or two.
Jim
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I'm getting ready to paint the bottom of mine. I have to say it will be real hard to actually cause the drips. If I can't bring myself to do it, would it be a deduction?
I'm guessing that if your having problems with this detail you'll be hesitant to do those also (example firewall sealant) Depends on the judge but IMHO they should deduct for any of these shortcomings since if they are not there its not as it was originally. Of course its your car and your choice - just accept that choices can cost ;)
BTW its not that hard to produce the floor pan drips
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I'm guessing that if your having problems with this detail you'll be hesitant to do those also (example firewall sealant) Depends on the judge but IMHO they should deduct for any of these shortcomings since if they are not there its not as it was originally. Of course its your car and your choice - just accept that choices can cost ;)
BTW its not that hard to produce the floor pan drips
When I wrote the in initial post, I wasn't so much worried about the technique to do it, but the will full act of adding runs.
BUT, with this new fangled epoxy, it seems to look more like "fish eyes" rather than the drips and runs of the original style paint when I've goofed and put on too much material.
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When I wrote the in initial post, I wasn't so much worried about the technique to do it, but the will full act of adding runs....
Think I got that as I've had plenty of owners ask me to put sealant (another one of those messy details that owners can't seem to bring themselves to do) on the firewall. In another example I had an owner in the early 90's that after spending 6 months getting the unibody all straightened out could not understand why I wanted to throw overspray all over the place ;)
Your in good company but we're also here to give you support and backing to make the hard choices ;)
Good luck with whichever path you choose
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I'm guessing that if your having problems with this detail you'll be hesitant to do those also (example firewall sealant) Depends on the judge but IMHO they should deduct for any of these shortcomings since if they are not there its not as it was originally. Of course its your car and your choice - just accept that choices can cost ;)
BTW its not that hard to produce the floor pan drips
Jeff - What is the current efficient way to replicate the drips on the underside?
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Jeff - What is the current efficient way to replicate the drips on the underside?
"Efficient" way ? :) Not sure if anything I do has ever been called efficient. Easiest I've found is just leave the original paint, scuff it and shot a light full coat of new color over the top if the original stuff is still there and the floors are in good condition. Much like the seam sealers and sound deadener - unless you suspect rust is growing under it leave it alone. Its too hard to get looking right when you reapply. Others are using simple rattle cans to apply along the floor ribs and sections of floor, frame rails and brackets that hang down until multiple drips form then overcoat these with your final color coat. Takes some time - but beats trying to stand under the car and producing the same effect with the final color
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"Efficient" way ? :) Not sure if anything I do has ever been called efficient. Easiest I've found is just leave the original paint, scuff it and shot a light full coat of new color over the top if the original stuff is still there and the floors are in good condition. Much like the seam sealers and sound deadener - unless you suspect rust is growing under it leave it alone. Its too hard to get looking right when you reapply. Others are using simple rattle cans to apply along the floor ribs and sections of floor, frame rails and brackets that hang down until multiple drips form then overcoat these with your final color coat. Takes some time - but beats trying to stand under the car and producing the same effect with the final color
+1
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I'm surprised that spray can paint will build up enough to simulate the drips. Still, I agree that that's a much better idea than trying to make runs when you're applying final color! :)
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+1
"Efficient" way ? :)
...Easiest I've found is just leave the original paint, scuff it and shot a light full coat of new color over the top if the original stuff is still there and the floors are in good condition.
... Others are using simple rattle cans to apply along the floor ribs and sections of floor, frame rails and brackets that hang down until multiple drips form then overcoat these with your final color coat.
What if we need to simply replace a few "drips" that were scraped off or fell off during undercarrage clean up? Is there a good method using a product such as Glazing Putty to replicate those "missing few drips" that you can make out the witness marks of?
Richard
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What if we need to simply replace a few "drips" that were scraped off or fell off during undercarrage clean up? Is there a good method using a product such as Glazing Putty to replicate those "missing few drips" that you can make out the witness marks of?
Believe you will find that when dry glazing putty is too delicate for this since they hang down and can be easily bumped or knocked off.
Your looking for something catalyzed and hard like the original finish
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Believe you will find that when dry glazing putty is too delicate for this since they hang down and can be easily bumped or knocked off.
Your looking for something catalyzed and hard like the original finish
It seems like a good 2K primer would do the job. It'll spray nicely (and should run fairly easily) when wet, but will be pretty hard when it dries. Maybe even an epoxy primer would be better, though I'm not sure if it would sag or run as well as 2K. I'd think epoxy would be stronger when cured, though.
The tough part will be thinning the primer to where it will successfully and controllably run when you want it to, without messing the mixture ratio up enough that the primer never fully cures or hardens.
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Believe you will find that when dry glazing putty is too delicate for this since they hang down and can be easily bumped or knocked off.
Your looking for something catalyzed and hard like the original finish
Any Ideas? I will have areas that would require a complete"spray and sag" the curtain or runs and drips, but also I have a few missing "pimples" here and there. I wouldn't mind a THICK substance that can be topcoated after it dries, yet can be applied while on the rotisserie for these "pimples" The other areas, like where I do other repair work, I figured the method mentioned here earlier would work great. I could also skip doing the missing "pimples" since I already have a teenager complexion going on down there ...
Richard
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Jeff - What is the current efficient way to replicate the drips on the underside?
Yeah, have my kids spray it...
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Yeah, have my kids spray it...
I think you got it, or just be sloppy. I use that painting technique almost without trying.
Jim
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I've personnally been very happy using a syringe with thick needle. I cover the floor, then squirt matching tinted epoxy above the area where the drips should be. The epoxy runs down to the low points and drips down onto the temporary disposable floor cover. Because of the waste on the floor I work from the inside out.
The thinks I like about this method is (1) less waste, (2) same material as floor, (3) same color throughout, (4) no rush, (5) I can survey the look and go back and add more strategically to add to the randomness if and where needed.
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I've personnally been very happy using a syringe with thick needle. I cover the floor, then squirt matching tinted epoxy above the area where the drips should be. The epoxy runs down to the low points and drips down onto the temporary disposable floor cover. Because of the waste on the floor I work from the inside out.
The thinks I like about this method is (1) less waste, (2) same material as floor, (3) same color throughout, (4) no rush, (5) I can survey the look and go back and add more strategically to add to the randomness if and where needed.
It's worth a thought. A once sloppy hasty assembly line routine has now turned into a process akin to an artist's work on his canvas...
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It's worth a thought. A once sloppy hasty assembly line routine has now turned into a process akin to an artist's work on his canvas...
That's exactly right. It's amazing the lengths we go to just to replicate something that was slapped together on the assembly line. It's the same with seam sealer, firewall sealer, etc.
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I could find a way to complicate a grain of SALT!
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How about a different spin? While the factory method was certainly fast, and the particular process did not require a high level of skill, consider what it would take to replicate it exactly. A moving assembly line, a "bath" of primer, spray nozzles with pumping and pipes/hoses to connect the dots.
So when we talk spray cans, syringe needles, and other alternatives, I think it is more of combining inginuity and frugalness. I think the alternatives are less complicated in comparison to the original method.
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Good point.