ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1966 Shelby => Topic started by: 65fastbk on February 08, 2013, 09:25:10 PM
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Hi,
Whats the best way to tell if a Cobra intake manifold is the real deal or a repro...The one I was looking at has AWL on the underneath pad and co..the rest of it was unreadable. It a Big Corbra lettered withe a angled A. It has the firing order on the rear pad and 4 separate holes on the carburetor plane.
Any areas I should pay close attention to before I purchase it?
What is a reasonable price to get it for in this market.
Thanks!
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Hard to be certain without pictures but it sounds like an original. As mentioned there is normally much more stamped in the stands cast into the bottom. Always check the front and rear pads (from the bottom) to see how much the radiator liquid has eaten away and if its been repainted. Same goes for the water passage at the front though the pads seem to eat through first. Other places are the corner mounting bolt areas - dropping or breaking them off and being reattached. Also any of the holes being stripped out or damaged -
Have not followed price and I'm too stuck in the past to give a reliable estimate at value
Here is a survey thread from about 4 years ago on the SAAC site
http://saacforum.com/index.php?topic=2788.0 (http://saacforum.com/index.php?topic=2788.0)
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Doesn't the only repro have a bigger water outlet hole?
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Usually the 2 big giveaways are lack of 4 individual throttle bore holes and larger heater hose outlet like Charles mentioned. The Heater hose outlet can be tricky though. I've had NOS real deal S7MS intakes that were sold as competion pieces. They werent drilled for rear vacuum port and the heater hose outlet was oversized