ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1967 Mustang => Topic started by: Angela on May 28, 2013, 04:13:40 PM
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I'm sorry if the following is an old topic (seems like it would be); I searched using all sorts of terms yet came up empty.
How does one remove an old "riv-nut" in the door, which is supposed to hold the driver's side remote mirror, yet is spinning in the door? The door in question is painted and buffed out so I need to know precisely how to remove the hardware without damaging the paint.
I have a new nut obtained from AMK, yet it doesn't look exactly like the "traditional" riv-nut with axial grooves.... the AMK type (and perhaps the originals, I don't know) is smooth on the outside diameter.
What holds these things in tight to the door? Do they compress somehow and if so do I need a special tool to install the new hardware?
But, I digress, first, how on earth do I get the old spinning one out of the door? The second nut seems to be tight; am I better off leaving that one alone or is it best to replace both?
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They would have to be drilled out. If there is nothing wrong with the one that is already there, I would leave it. You can cut or clean the threads if necessary.
Basically, these are installed using the same method as a pop rivet. The inside is flared as it's is pulled up with the tool.
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Is there a specific tool required to install the new rivet-nut? Anyone gone through this process that might be able to post their lessons learned / tips? I don't really know what the correct term is for these nuts sold by AMK.
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Yes, the tool would be a rivet nut setting tool. Looks like a pop rivet gun, but different end.
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Is there a specific tool required to install the new rivet-nut? Anyone gone through this process that might be able to post their lessons learned / tips? I don't really know what the correct term is for these nuts sold by AMK.
Harbor Freight also carries the tool and the inserts
Yes thought I should to a how too for these. Though its fairly straight forward and easy the tools and the job seems to concern allot of people. Guess its the same with any task not attempted before.
Maybe tomorrow at the shop I can find an old door, drill some holes and take some pictures. Will have to dig out the tool and the inserts I guess
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Thanks Jeff, yes, if you have experience installing these "Riv-nuts", pictures and/or a few tips would be appreciated.
Besides the difficulty in drilling off the head of the old (spinning) riv-nut, I'm wondering whether or not the problem with the original (and AMK replacement) riv-nuts is that the barrel is smooth. I find that most of the riv-nuts sold at my local auto store have ribs on the outside circumference of the barrel, which I assume exist to help keep it from spinning under torque.
Can you or anyone comment as to whether or not it's smart to use an alternate 10-24 riv-nut that has ribbing instead of the smooth-type originals?
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Some have ribs on the outside, some don't.
Before drilling it out, I would obtain the tool and try re-setting the rivnut. It may expand enough to stop it from spinning.
The tools are cheap on ebay. Search rivnut ant nutsert.
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Use the tool and snug the existing nut before you drill anything. Many times the old nut will grab and you are good to go for many more years.
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I notice that no one has made reference to the sizes and threads of the nutserts in question. They are 10-24, which are not always included in a nutsert kit's mandrels, and may not be available as a special order.
Jim
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Some times if the hole is a little sloppy I add a small amount of JB weld epoxy. It seem to help it hold.
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Use the tool and snug the existing nut before you drill anything. Many times the old nut will grab and you are good to go for many more years.
Great advice, didn't think of that.
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I notice that no one has made reference to the sizes and threads of the nutserts in question. They are 10-24, which are not always included in a nutsert kit's mandrels, and may not be available as a special order.
Jim
Tool I purchased from Harbor Freight had 6 different sizes included with the tool - 10-24 being one of them
Found a door at the shop today that had a remote but was missing one of the nutserts took some pictures to do a quick How To. Will post once I get the photos developed :)
Here is the kit I used
http://www.harborfreight.com/45-piece-threaded-insert-riveter-kit-1210.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/45-piece-threaded-insert-riveter-kit-1210.html)
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Tool I purchased from Harbor Freight had 6 different sizes included with the tool - 10-24 being one of them
Found a door at the shop today that had a remote but was missing one of the nutserts took some pictures to do a quick How To. Will post once I get the photos developed :)
Here is the kit I used
http://www.harborfreight.com/45-piece-threaded-insert-riveter-kit-1210.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/45-piece-threaded-insert-riveter-kit-1210.html)
I don't remember where I got my rivnut kit from (it's been many moons) but it didn't have a 10-24 mandril. My post was an advisory to make sure it included that size. I did use the 10-32 setup with a 10-32 oval head screw to "fix" the mirror on a friend 67 driver.
Jim
And the heater motor status is -
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Jim didn't mean for my post to come across with any negativity just to show a kit that did include that size.
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Jeff,
I meant only to make sure the size rivnut you need is included in the set you buy, eg the 10-24 size.
Jim
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Thanks Jeff, yes, if you have experience installing these "Riv-nuts", pictures and/or a few tips would be appreciated. ............
As requested ;)
Writing and posting took five times longer than doing the task ::)
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=6563.new#new (http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=6563.new#new)