ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Body, Paint & Sealers => Topic started by: DeadStang on September 21, 2013, 12:59:20 AM
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This is what I've got:
(http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/ss101/DeadStang/CatMetal017_zps3f6c1eb0.jpg) (http://s566.photobucket.com/user/DeadStang/media/CatMetal017_zps3f6c1eb0.jpg.html)
(http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/ss101/DeadStang/CatMetal016_zps093612aa.jpg) (http://s566.photobucket.com/user/DeadStang/media/CatMetal016_zps093612aa.jpg.html)
(http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/ss101/DeadStang/CatMetal013_zpsc12de0f4.jpg) (http://s566.photobucket.com/user/DeadStang/media/CatMetal013_zpsc12de0f4.jpg.html)
What do I do with it? How do I clean it--not water? Stupid question, but is there a light oil I can spray on it to keep it from being in contact with O2 and rusting? [The spots in the last picture that look like road kill splatter are pieces of ornamental plum from the driveway--I'm going to use a small brush and get that cleaned off the surface this weekend.]
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Kim, I think that I would experiment on a sacrificial car with some Evaporust. If that is successful, finish up with Boe-shield? Going from memory, on that last product.
If you need some practice body panels, we have some that you can play with.
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You could try to wire brush the loose stuff off then use this to encapsulate the rust: http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/mastercoat-metal-prep/ http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/primer/ Then paint over with a chassis black. Here's a couple before and after photos of my 66 roof and inner fender.
Jeff
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Is this a low mileage original? If so and your goal is simply to preserve without changing the original appearance, you'll basically be cleaning the car. Evaporust would work great to remove rust, but that's a slippery slope as doing one part here or there will not fit with the overall original appearance. Best to not use that product. I would highly recommend against using any type of abrasive or wire wheel also as this will take the surface to bare metal.
Mike Murray, mgmradio on this forum has a lot of experience in cleaning and preserving low mileage originals. You might try sending him a PM to get some pointers. I know Mike uses very mild products for cleaning, wd-40 and pb blaster can go a long way in removing dirt/grease without changing the original appearance. After cleaning, there are products that help seal surfaces so they do not corrode going forward.
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Mike Murray, mgmradio on this forum has a lot of experience in cleaning and preserving low mileage originals. You might try sending him a PM to get some pointers. I know Mike uses very mild products for cleaning, wd-40 and pb blaster can go a long way in removing dirt/grease without changing the original appearance. After cleaning, there are products that help seal surfaces so they do not corrode going forward.
+1 Speak to Mike, I used wd40 per his suggestion on my unrestored 66, it helps with the surface rust and puts a oily film on it as well that helps keep it from coming back. I just reply it from time to time.
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The objective is to conserve/preserve the originality of the car , not restore it. In the areas you have shown I would be using PB blaster and a soft brass brush to remove the loose rust and preserve the surface. You don't want to clean it down to bare metal. The fine layer of rust will help preserve it. Think of gun bluing or browning. The PB blaster will leave a slight anti corrosive coating as we'll.
On the springs and shackles I would use the same products , but you can be more aggressive .
If you would like to discuss this further give me a call 540 371-4111.
Mike
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Excellent replies, all, thanks! Yes, this is a 54K original mile car, and there is very little surface rust and about 1/2 the original undercoating remains. I have been getting the large deposits of dried dirt out of crevasses, and using a soft brass brush to get the loose dirt off and keep the undercoating on. I was thinking PB blaster or WD-40, but I don't want to loosen and remove the undercoating. I may be a little more daring inside frame rails where there is visible minor surface rust and perhaps use a product, but I don't want anything to "bleed thru" and be visible.
krelboyne: I have a couple of parts cars ( ;) ) sitting around that I can experiment on--great idea!
mgmradio: I'll work on the just getting the dirt off/out first, then I think I'll be getting in contact to discuss. I haven't had a car as unmolested as this to date, and I don't want to negatively affect its history and patina. :-[
Thanks again!
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Great topic! I have the exact same situation and haven't started cleaning yet for fear of losing any details or patina. I know some folks like the look of a true survivor, dirt, grease and all, but eventually I would like to clean it up to reveal more of the factory look.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XAHvS3wlH40/Uj5VmyQ62pI/AAAAAAAAEgU/CE0hn8yXayM/s640/67%2520390%2520LCA.JPG)
I've used WD-40 to remove undercoating on another car and it worked great. I wouldn't want to be as aggressive the low mileage car though.
The car has some rusty/flaky areas, like the rear pinch weld for example, that I'm afraid to touch knowing some of the detail could be lost.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-SGVhAp67Pwk/Uj5ZthUbI2I/AAAAAAAAEgw/D5nKsVC-7iM/s640/67%2520390%2520rear%2520pinch%2520weld.JPG)