ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Body, Paint & Sealers => Topic started by: Rsanter on December 09, 2013, 11:26:01 AM
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So I am working on the 69 convertible and while the car is a survivor in the terms that it is remarkably preserved it does have a few problems.
I am replacing the drivers front floorpan and the passenger side has lots of inside surface rust with a few pin holes. I have wire wheeled the floor the bast I can and it looks great but has lots of Pitts and some are deep. I was wanting to use a rust converter or neutralizer something that will get any rust I may have missed.
So what do you recommend? What has worked for you?
On a second note, I was going to weld up the rust pinholes by using a copper backing and the going real easy with the welder. Is there a better way like a specific epoxy or something. I was wanting to maintain the surface finish on the underside as best I can so the car appears as untampered as I can keep it
Bob
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So I am working on the 69 convertible and while the car is a survivor in the terms that it is remarkably preserved it does have a few problems.
I am replacing the drivers front floorpan and the passenger side has lots of inside surface rust with a few pin holes. I have wire wheeled the floor the bast I can and it looks great but has lots of Pitts and some are deep. I was wanting to use a rust converter or neutralizer something that will get any rust I may have missed.
So what do you recommend? What has worked for you?
On a second note, I was going to weld up the rust pinholes by using a copper backing and the going real easy with the welder. Is there a better way like a specific epoxy or something. I was wanting to maintain the surface finish on the underside as best I can so the car appears as untampered as I can keep it
Bob
One way is to after prepping the surface pour some activated fiberglass resin and bond a piece of fiberglass mat to the passenger compartment side of the floor . It will add strength and cover the pin holes so you can dress them on the bottom side .Put tape over the bottom side of the pin holes so the resin will not drip through and for less dressing of the shape after it cures.
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Most recently I have been using this Napa product. Can't say how well it really works but it makes me feel better. The treated area turns a darker color and the surface rusting does indeed stop. As you know the only real treatment for burn-thru rust is R & R. Brian
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R & R = Rest and Relaxation. Pretty cool how that works ::) Or is that Rip and Replace...
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Ruminate and Regret. Brian
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Think Rust Mort is one of the earliest products to convert and protect (used it first about 25 years ago) and checking its still around. Think its available in small or large containers and possibly spray. NEVER liked the POR 15 sort of stuff (tried a number of companies over the years) for restorations. Now farm equipment is another thing ;)
As for the pin holes consider that if the rust has eaten the metal that far there are allot more (not visible) area where 50% or more of the metal is gone so a quick fix is fiberglass as Bob mentioned or replacing a small section of metal for a like new repair
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Long before this was a hobby, I used a rust convertor on my floor boards after some wire wheel treatment and then fiberglass. That was 38 years ago and 200,000 miles later and 15 years of daily driving after that and I still have the same floor boards with no evidence that rust has come back. I was a poor high school student at the time and did what I could. Never thought I would own the car this long or that I would not have to touch the floor boards again.
So...what ever they had back then was good stuff. I would imagine that you could easily do the same thing.
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So...what ever they had back then was good stuff. I would imagine that you could easily do the same thing.
Might have been Rust Mort
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I really like Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. It comes in a spray can and in a can for brush applications. Just remove any rust scale and obviously loose rust and apply. It can be painted over easily after it dries.
People have had poor results with POR15 at times: it needs rust to bind to the material. I've also used Naval Jelly and didn't really care for it.
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There are only a few holes but a bunch of Pitts that I will guarantee are 50% through the metal.
I have wire wheeled the snot out of it but want to be sure there is no rust hiding in the recesses that will come back and bite me.
I had thought about an epoxy but didn't think of fiberglass
Bob
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Pssst - Rust Mort can be used to phosphate steel and iron. Don't tell anybody.
Jim
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Pssst - Rust Mort can be used to phosphate steel and iron. Don't tell anybody.
+1. It's not my first choice for phosphating (it's too expensive for that!), but it does work well in a pinch!
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+1. It's not my first choice for phosphating (it's too expensive for that!), but it does work well in a pinch!
Actually it's not. I use somewhere between 2 and 4 ounces of either Rust-Mort or the regular concentrate per gallon of 180F water in the tank to phosphate. The last quart of Rust-Mort I bought was about $17 per quart and the regular concentrate was $20 a quart. Remember, it is a substitute not the preferred chemical.
Jim
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http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/products/mastercoat-metal-prep/
http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/products/primer/
I'm using the above two products on my 66 coupe. Click the links. I have photos posted on several threads at this site.
I'm pretty happy with the results and it's alot less than POR-15 from what I hear.
Jeff
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I really like Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator.
+2 on Eastwoods
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Found the rust coatings to be a pain to paint over so I gave up on them after using them on a couple of cars - good thing they were not show cars ;)
Think the last place I used them was the inside of the Cougars cowl.
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Found the rust coatings to be a pain to paint over so I gave up on them after using them on a couple of cars - good thing they were not show cars ;)
Think the last place I used them was the inside of the Cougars cowl.
In England we have a product called Kurust - i have used it and painted over with both Etch primer and 2K primer, seems to have stood the test of time.............
http://www.hammerite.co.uk/products/kurust.jsp
Chris
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Spot blast and epoxy is what I'd do.
Trying to weld up pin holes even with a copper backer will be a recipe for frustration. The steel you are trying to weld to at the edges will be a few thousands thick and will run from the puddle.
Epoxy both sides so air can't get to it then use that tough filler on the inside, regular on the out, or bite the bullet and butt weld in small patches.
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Face it, there is no 'one' best, however there is 'experience' that will allow you to choose the best method for the circumstance. I've used almost every method, process or product (some were a poor choice) mentioned here and I still have to do it over again sometimes. As to the 'rust converter or rust eater' question, consider the downside of the products too. Read the reviews, and remember sometimes it's not worth the effort if the metal is really bad.
Jim