ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Interior & Trunk => Topic started by: Oz390 on December 14, 2013, 06:02:14 PM
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Picked up a good used OEM '68 dash pad, but whoever removed it used the brute force method when they pulled it and did not know about the two studs thru the dash at each end. Ripped out, gone...
Experience and tips on repair?
Think the studs are close to the tabbed ones used for the rear valance, and thinking they may be able to be stuck in place, but wondering what a good bonding/filler agent would be to hold them securely.
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Most of the time the pad has shrunk and the corner anchors are pulled out. They can be siliconed back in but you will have a very difficult time restretching it
I have some of the anchors.
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What about urethane, like used on modern windshields? It would be stronger than silicone, but it may be overkill for such a small repair.
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The area of missing foam is a good 1" square-ish on one side and about half that on the other. The pad fits OK to the dash, just need to refill the void and locate the studs. The rear valence ones are really close and look like they will work fine, if I can find a good material to fill the void.
Thanks for the offer Marty, but the shipping to Oz for an unseen part is not required...
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Like Marty said the cause is not usually someone pulling out but pad shrinkage. I would check the fit before you go to all the trouble of repairing it
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As noted, the pad fits well to the dash. Will sort something out.
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Stirring the old post up,
Same situation, only on a 67. One stud/bolt missing, dash pad fits good, not shrunken like many.
I should have the stud/bolt & flange from my original to install into the OE replacement, just asking for best techniques to bond it to the original foam backing. The backing looks to be in "above average" condition.
What works, what DOES NOT work.
Thanks in advance.
Richard
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I have used phenolic glue (like Gorilla glue) Not only does it hold well but expands to fill the voids. Make sure you dampen parts first as the moisture is what activates the glue
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I have used phenolic glue (like Gorilla glue) Not only does it hold well but expands to fill the voids. Make sure you dampen parts first as the moisture is what activates the glue
Thank you Tim, interestingly enough...moisture seems odd but I do know that RTV's (Room Temperature Vulcanizer) use moisture to assist in curing time so no suprise really.
Richard
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Ended up using studs like those that hold the rear valence, and gluing in place and filling the void with a product called ShoeGoo. It worked pretty well...
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The gorilla glue was a terrific idea, thank you again Tim. Not having the original bolt with bracket that was torn from this dash pad, I made do with my old one out of my old pad. The new bracket was a little bit wider as you can see in some of the pictures. I clean the old foam out of the way and prepared it to accept the new bracket. I then wet the dash pad area with a mist of water using a spray bottle, applied a small amount of glue to the back of the bracket and pressed it into place, clamped for 2 hours. After the two hour wait I added more of the gorilla glue around the bracket to fill in the gaps. At this point in time in the pictures below you can see the progress. Basically another two hours longer wait, then I shape the remainder of the expanded foam (dried gorilla glue) with a razor blade and it's ready to reinstall!
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Finished product.
I had to sand down the area next to the repair so it would fit the contours of the dash.
I used another dash pad for reference to do the sanding. I believe this is STRONG enough to hold up to the test of time. I have never used the Gorilla Glue before, I am impressed at how rock-hard it gets when cured, and in my opinion, I feel this repair is stronger than any "unrepaired" typical used dash pad's mounting studs. (such as the one in the picture below next to the "repaired" dash pad) I AM A BELIEVER, I believe this REALLY did the trick ;)