ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Body, Paint & Sealers => Topic started by: ptosborn1111 on February 20, 2014, 12:56:39 PM
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Getting ready to primer the car. I'm wondering on the coating where the dolly marks go. Body shop stripped the bottom and this should be galvanized? What is the material and process of coating the bare metal in these areas before we apply the dolly tools?
Pat
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Forgot to mention. The car was built in Dearborn and is a 5/7/65 build date.
Pat
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You likely don't want to cut the body panels off of the car to have them plated only to reweld them to the car. To address this issue some have gone the route of Faux Galvanizing
You'll find an article about that process in the Library section of the site ;)
And you'll just have to do the bottom ones around where the mark/shadow will be left - place the tool in place and feather the remainer before you shot the base coat of primer
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Thanks Jeff. This should get me moving in the right direction.
Pat
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Does anyone have pics of a 65' (Jan-June) Dearborn car that has the bottom of the car redone (concourse level) or original paint from factory (Jeff included)? What I am after is a pic(s) of the car on a hoist where I can see pretty much the whole bottom on the pic?
Pat
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Here are some pics of a late May '65 Dearborn convertible. I restored this car almost 10 years ago, so there are things here and there that I would do differently now. Keep in mind this is a GT car, so might be a few things here and there different, like paint marks and such. I sold it in Jan '06 in Scottsdale.
http://www.ct.early-mustang.com/charles/vert/12_3_05/
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Thanks Charles.
Gives some clarity to the paint on the bottom and other details I was looking for.
Pat
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The over-spray on the undercarriage is pretty close to how that car came, have pics to prove it. There is a lot of variance in this from plant to plant and even at the same plant, so just wanted to mention that detail. The 64 1/2 pace car coupe I'm doing now had a ton of white underneath it.
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Unfortunatly our car had a bunch of Ziebart type finish to the bottom and it was not possible to see the amount of overspray. Or much detail at all. We will have to gather as much info as possible and examples and go from there.
Pat
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You might be able to clean that stuff off, try mineral spirits. Have also heard of others using gasoline or kerosene, but PLEASE be careful if using them.
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Too late. Body shop has striped all of this stuff off but paying attention to being careful with sound deadener areas and such. There are pics of this process in the gallery area.
I am trying to relay all of this info as we go along and make sure details are covered as well. Lots of pics helps out. ;)
Pat
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One of the things that is confusing to me is in the pics I posted on this thread. Looking at the pics of where the inner fender and fire wall meet is the appearance of red oxide primer under the black. So, red oxide the entire engine bay and underside of the car. Then if you come back with the batch primer and coat the underside of the car and the engine bay gets black paint, the red oxide should disappear?
The coats you see hear are what existed from factory and probably dealer (Ziebart coating).
Give me some thoughts. ???
Pat
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One of the things that is confusing to me is in the pics I posted on this thread. Looking at the pics of where the inner fender and fire wall meet is the appearance of red oxide primer under the black. So, red oxide the entire engine bay and underside of the car. Then if you come back with the batch primer and coat the underside of the car and the engine bay gets black paint, the red oxide should disappear?
No the red oxide would have not bee applied to the underside of the car behind the firewall to floor seam but in front of it in this example
I don't see a posted picture of the inner fender area just the bottom of the firewall (transition) to the floor The firewall along with the engine compartment and the inner fenders on the wheel side and the jets from below would have applied the floor color - in your case the batch color - black
Depending on the height of the painter and the effort he wanted to put in that day (moment) they didn't always bend over allot or reach the area between the vertical section of the firewall and 100% of the transition area between the firewall and the floor sections. This often created light to heavy overspray. During cleaning its not uncommon for someone to remove/clean away 50% or more of the engine compartment black from this area from my experience.
Scrubbed too hard many a time and rinsed off the paint :(
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Thanks Jeff. Just appears that in this case when the engine bay paint was applied they really missed that area. I will check more of my pics for other evidence.
Pat
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Thanks Jeff. Just appears that in this case when the engine bay paint was applied they really missed that area. .......
Not uncommon but most restorers choose to apply paint as they wished (and often did) the workers had rather than reproduce what the low effort guy did ;)
Here is another example of what you may have seen
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/Original%20Uni-body%20%20Pictures/65%20SJ/65-66lowerfirewall_zpsca3a92b6.jpg) (http://s44.photobucket.com/user/firetrainer/media/Original%20Uni-body%20%20Pictures/65%20SJ/65-66lowerfirewall_zpsca3a92b6.jpg.html)
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Charles,
Might you have any more images to look at for this thread?
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All the pics from the restoration of the GT convertible are here: http://www.ct.early-mustang.com/charles/vert/
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Studied all of those. Just wondered if you had any other pics of other cars in your library?
Thanks, Pat
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Hours of viewing pleasure here, lol:
http://www.ct.early-mustang.com/charles/
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Real funny! What did I get myself into? I will be here awhile, but I did ask for it didn't I. :P
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Dose this look like we are headed in the right direction with the dolly marks?
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Dose this look like we are headed in the right direction with the dolly marks?
Color looks pretty bright but it looks like its a result of your flash rather than the true color. Remember to remove the rear spring bushings before you apply the color (over the red oxide base you did there.
Once you start leave the dolly post in place until all the painting is done - through the pinch weld black out ;)
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I like to use a small rubber tip cut in the shape of a triangle and while the paint is still wet, press the rubber into the paint in a random manner. This replicates the 'spangle' of the galvanized finish.