ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1966 Mustang => Topic started by: Building 3 on May 04, 2014, 01:34:03 PM
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Were the shipping tie down brackets installed before the paint process or were installed so stile later in the assembly process? 1965 December Dearborn build. Thanks
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Based on the difficulty I had taking mine off, before the exhaust (factory dual) was installed, which would have been before suspension was installed too, but after paint.
Jim
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Were the shipping tie down brackets installed before the paint process or were installed so stile later in the assembly process? ........
After the paint process at all plants
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What is the finish on them? Same at all plants? If plant and build date specific, I'm trying to figure out what to do with the ones on the car in my signature.
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What is the finish on them? Same at all plants? If plant and build date specific, I'm trying to figure out what to do with the ones on the car in my signature.
Depended on plant - your plant and year they were bare steel
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+1, Both of my Dearborn Coupe's had unfinished Tie Down Brackets.
Ray
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How was the front of the cars tied down for shipping while we are on this subject?
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How was the front of the cars tied down for shipping while we are on this subject?
A cast T shaped loop. Have a couple somewhere - their also described and illustrated in a manual from Ford I have on loading rail cars for shipping autos.
Thinks you learn here :)
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A cast T shaped loop. Have a couple somewhere - their also described and illustrated in a manual from Ford I have on loading rail cars for shipping autos.
So a lot like the ones that are on tow truck chains or used at auto body shops?
There is a "slot" in the front frame rail, right behind the valance, that is where they hooked up?
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So a lot like the ones that are on tow truck chains or used at auto body shops?
Yep - tow trucks and frame racks
There is a "slot" in the front frame rail, right behind the valance, that is where they hooked up?
Insert, turn and tighten ;)
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I've been in the process of restoring my late '65 tie down plates and replacing the hardware.........
Were the OE bolt heads unmarked? Which style nuts are correct?
Can't answer that without knowing when (got that late 65) and where your car was built?? ;)
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I've been in the process of restoring my late July Dearborn '65 tie down plates and replacing the hardware.
Pictures of the hardware removed that I believe to be factory attached. Bolts have unmarked heads.
Taking a look at AMK kit F-256 (TIE DOWN BRACKETS (Rr) 12 pcs 65Z, 66Z) the bolts have a "R" with 3 slashes below them (picture attached), and nuts do not appear to be same style or finish as what I removed. Additionally it appears 2 bolts are missing from the kit.
Were the OE bolt heads unmarked? Which style nuts are correct?
The unmarked bolts ,washers and nuts are a typical variety. I can't say the same thing for the AMK hardware. The exception is the lock nut which I have seen plated like the AMK as well as what appears un plated.
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What I've found, mostly from San Jose cars, is that there is mix of parts used. Based on the size hardware required, all 7/16 inch, the selection of the following seems to be reasonable; there are few common assembly line bolts or nuts of this size; Ford did not want special hardware; Ford may have bought cheap bulk quantities. The only documentation for tie down plates in in the 71-73 Body manuals referencing 67 tie down brackets, C7ZB-10578-79 -A for single exhaust cars, and C7ZB-10578-79 -B for dual exhaust cars. These drawings show a tie down bracket that looks very close to the ones used for 64-66 Mustangs as shown in my pictures.
For 1965 and 66 (both sides):
20430-S2 7/16-14 X 1 1/4L, GR 2, no head marking, 2 used into a welded in nut in the bottom of the frame rail. These are the same bolts used to attach the manual transmission case to the bell housing.
20546-S2 7/16-14 X 2 1/2L, GR 2, no head marking, 4 used thru the frame rail to a washer and nut. These are the same bolts used to attach the bell housing to the V-8 engine.
374358-S8 7/6-14 nut, flange 0.870 dia, stover lock, GR 2, 4 used with 20546-S2. These are the same nuts used on the bumper to retain the domed bolts.
(p/n unknown) 7/16 flw, 0.468id, 0.875od, 0.059-0.085t (as measured from several cars). I could find no other application for this washer in Ford documentation, however, it is identified in the AMK catalog for use on GM bumpers.
44730-S2 7/16 flw, 0.459-0.479id, 0.922od, 0.051-0.080t. I could find no other application for this washer in Ford documentation. It is a Ford standard washer.
Jim
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I've stripped my tie down brackets bare and shot them with Eastwood diamond clear satin to protect them.
Hope it holds up- been lucky to get the sprayed surfaces to last over one year here in dry Calif
Where have the "R///" head marked bolts been found on early Mustangs as pictured in the AMK kit above? They seem very out of place compared to original bolts I've seen.
No where - AMK does not always supply bolts with the correct or even period head markings - only something that will fit and work. Unfortunately more of this as time passes and he runs out of the old stock and supplies
The ones in the kit will guarantee a point deduction on any concours car if seem - and they should be ;)
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Great details!
I've stripped my tie down brackets bare and shot them with Eastwood diamond clear satin to protect them.
Where have the "R///" head marked bolts been found on early Mustangs as pictured in the AMK kit above? They seem very out of place compared to original bolts I've seen.
I have seen RBW marked ones before in that location. But not as typical.
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I lightly phosphate and oil the brackets that I'm not going to paint. The pictures are after and before (just the way I numbered them), hardware is original but phosphated or plated as necessary.
Jim
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The bare metal on mine look great, how to finish them from there I am at a loss for options. Any recommendations/suggestions ?
Plenty of threads on this site related to that choice . Currently for me I heat (just to the pretty warm stage:) and then soak the metal in a micro film protective oil.
The rust may still come back over time but the fix is much, much easier than with a clear or paint which typically requires removal and a complete redo. Since both finishes will show age and exposure given enough time and/or the right conditions in my experience