ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1967 Mustang => Topic started by: rodster on October 01, 2014, 09:53:28 PM
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I'm about to send a C7OF 9510 B out for a rebuild and was wondering if there are any parts I should request be reused in order to keep it as correct as possible? Would hate to get it back and the first person that looks at it says what happened to the (fill in blank)? Originals are impossible to find! :o
;)
I will remove the aluminum tag for safe keeping. Speaking of tags, were they always attached at the same spot over the years?
The choke cover doesn't look original since I don't see a Ford logo of any type? Two different styles of needle/seat too.
My knowledge of carbs is weak so I appreciate the help. :)
Thanks!
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Would expect them to reuse all of your parts or maybe (depending on builder) swap some out for already done (plated) individual parts. YOU can always ask to use only your parts. Some will automatically replace the fuel bypass which should not be a big issue.
Since you took pictures pay attention to the finishes of the arms and linkage - you will likely need to redo or recolor some of those. It always seems they plate the accelerator lever dichromate :(
Basically just about everything that can get plated (other than the carb body parts) get dichromated. Would expect that you will get the original carb tag back
Often I remove some or all (or ask them not to stamp) the inspectors, numbers and such - just do those myself when I receive it back
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Thanks for the input Jeff. I guess I can always request any old parts returned to me as well. I'm not asking for a full blown concours restoration, just a decent rebuilt so I suspect I will need to redo some things.
I will be keeping the tag and the shop agrees that's a good idea.
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I would use Kurt formerly with Pony Carbs for this task.
If you need contact info, I can look it up. It was discussed recently in another 67 S-code thread (about 2 months ago) and I think the contact info was mentioned there.
PM me to Q me on the contact info
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Rodster your choke cover appears correct. Nice complete correct carb in general
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Rodster your choke cover appears correct. Nice complete correct carb in general
Interesting I would have guessed (wrong) the choke cover was not original. ::)
Thanks on the confirmation on the general completeness of the carb.
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I think your carb missing the vacuum fitting on the front metering block?? My core carbs all have this. Possibly needed/not needed between standard and automatics but most every one that I have seen has this. Sorry for the crappy copied pic. :-[
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+1 on the missing vacuum fitting...
Probably not 100% concours as far as finishes go, but here are some photos of the C7OF 9510 B carb installed on my car:
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=8418.msg48814#msg48814
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Thanks for the info and pictures. I wasn't sure if every carb got the vacuum fitting.
Another thing I'm confused about is dashpots. Papepback Writer, your reference photos show no dashpot but it's an automatic trans car? I know the purpose of the dashpot but is it true only cars with AT got them?
I would like to find a vacuum fitting before I send the carb out. I see there is a reproduction version available and being a relatively simple part should be close to 'correct'.
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Another thing I'm confused about is dashpots... ...I know the purpose of the dashpot but is it true only cars with AT got them?
I beieve the need for the dashpot was With BOTH auto AND A/C, but my research was as such. I didn't research the two options by themselves (read as AT only, no A/C or Man Trans car WITH A/C)
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I have a 67 322A 390 Engine that has a dash pot.....manual transmission and no AC. I will confirm date code as it is not original to my car.
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I used formally pony carbs and although the carb turned out nice and clean, I was happy at the look of what was there, but matching the photos of what was sent and what was recieved after restoration, even after requesting all parts are sent back I was missing parts... I ended up buying another $300 of nos parts to finish the job to the standard I was told I would recieve when I sent the work that way...
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Yea, that's one of my fears. I'm starting with a basic good core and don't want to go backwards as far as 'correctness' is concerned.
I've thought about just cleaning up my core and doing a rebuild myself but hard to duplicate the experience some of the rebuilders have.
Perhaps if I'm very specific about what I want done, all will turn out well.
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Got my carb back and I'm very happy with it. Sure looks better. ;) and can't beat the price ($160) and one week turn around time. Body is plated, not painted and the carb was bench tested.
I haven't re-installed the carb tag yet.
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Looks very nice, be sure to adjust the fast idle screw before you install it, getting it close is much easier when it is off the car, IMO.
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Got my carb back and I'm very happy with it. Sure looks better. ;) and can't beat the price ($160) and one week turn around time. Body is plated, not painted and the carb was bench tested.
I haven't re-installed the carb tag yet.
Do you mind mentioning who did your work?
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Looks very nice, be sure to adjust the fast idle screw before you install it, getting it close is much easier when it is off the car, IMO.
Thanks. I think the re-builder got it close but will double check before installing.
Do you mind mentioning who did your work?
Not at all. He was recommenced to me by a fellow enthusiast who also used him. I was able to drop off and pick up so I saved the shipping which was an added bonus. He really seems to know his stuff and gets on the carbs as soon as they arrive. Does a lot of rebuilding for some of the carb shops that farm out their work.
Like anyone you do business with, I'd recommend including with the carb, a paper detailing what you want as well as a phone call to discuss specifics.